Now the D5 in the MJ2012 has the start/stop automatic and the whole drum around – the displays in the Tacho display, the menu item in the TFT display, the DRIVe switch in the center console. In the operating manual (web version: pages 127/128):As an aid the driver has GSI – (Gear Shift Indicator). This function informs the driver when the insertion of a higher or lower gear is most convenient. For this, an upward or downward arrow is displayed in the lower information display of the combination instrument. Before that there is an image “speed indicator”, which should show the temperature indicator next to the left of the temperature indicator (but shows there a “R”, the highlighted “turn-on arrow” points to this position). (picture see picture). Now I have this gear indicator but not – does someone have it? Or is the only present with the D3 DRIVe, and they have “forgotten” with the D5? (not that I absolutely use it, but it is funny).
Category: Honda Forum
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Fuel consumption: on-board computer is next to it
Hello together, I made the statement in my XC60 that the specified fuel consumption usually deviates strongly from the calculated consumption. Usually it indicates less, that make the from Volvo certain extra real consumption I consume about 0.5 to 0.8 liters more, than the BC indicates. I find that the deviation is too large here. Everything in the range of +/- 0.2 liters I would still accept, but I don’t need a treasure ice. I once read that the display should be more reliable on long journeys. When I chased a tank filling through the engine recently on one day, I still had 0.8 liters of deviation – the BC showed 9.4 liters, I calculated (and Spritmonitor.de) 10.17 liters. How are your experiences?
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Fixed piston on caliper
Hello together! I had for some time a strong grinding noise while braking back right, which I then ran through to a workshop visit. And as I guessed it, the complete change of coverings and discs for front and rear was suggested to me. Cost of a dealer-independent chain (not ATU) total approx. Euro 500,00! Since I have been busy for some time now with the grinding here on this side, I had and have the assumption that at least the grinding is due to a temporarily fixed brake saddle/cob. I also told the “netten” Lord in the assumption, but that was (as to be expected) with a “yes, yes, we check the brake”. Now I have new coverings and discs, which was perhaps also necessary. Alleridngs I do not want to make in short time again because of a temporarily fixed piston the discs and coverings have to change. And since of the “netten” Lord in the workshop is not really to expect help, I turn to you! It is not to be grateful that here again to make the best thing to me as a description of the best time.
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Rear brake discs v40 bj.2003
Hello, after I have successfully changed the front chaiben with the coverings I now have to get in the back. tuv is on and I don’t know if they let this go. have enough meat se se still, must be over 8.3 mm (or 8,7mm it doesn’t know gard) thick,or? at the top and bottom I have just started from the inrun (is already quite big) the coverings are still top. can I actually only change the panes or do the coverings also have to be with? can I also push the brake pistons back with the old ingots? according to vadis need ma yes because the “special tool”, so push and turn… can you just push the piston back, so with screw force or wapu? can be that the org volvo discs are quite …naja.. net so durable? thank you in advance hairy
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Servus, maybe you have a ignite idea!
Hello dear V40 community! My 2.0 T has a problem! So I have already tried the search function but somehow it is somehow different with everything I have found. So now my Prob. description. – when I start it in the morning, I drive a few meters I have a stand gas between 1100 rpm and 1900 rpm. When it is warm I have the Prob. it goes down on about 800 tours and at some point it slams down on 300 rpm but then immediately rattles up on 800 tours. When driving it looks like this…….sometimes he is totally tired……sometimes he goes off like Schmidt’s cat. The Volvohänder where I was at the Insp. said only ” he would have read out the error memory but, which was empty! What I did? I cleaned the idle valve, thrush valve! Now I slowly run out of ideas…..maybe you still have one?
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“Sailing” in ECO – operation
Hej, the function “sailing” in the ECO operation I first assessed a bit critically, because I was not used to it and in the last years with the old Volvos simply “invented” my own way of driving sparingly. But if you get used to it, it will be so that you can drive even more economically – because you simply have to drive much more forward-looking. However, I have a topic with the function however. Really practical it is in my opinion mainly on country roads – especially with the speeds announced in the combined instrument – or in Sweden, where already a few hundred meters before the place table is a hint, that soon 50/40kmh – you can take the foot off the gas and sail to the village. Motorway rather less, because you drive there in the best case anyway with Tempomat, with Tempomat there is not this function. But what I noticed on my holiday trip by now – at higher speeds (which I drive as an Austrian only in DE) – so >120kmh I guess – I did not have the same thing at the time “kuppunk” – I did not have the same thing.
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Used V90 CC D4 purchased. Is there anything to watch out for?
Hello, I get tomorrow my used Volvo V90 CC D4 Pro Built 3/2018 96,000 km and would like to inform me if there is something I should pay attention to. I have already searched the forums, but not found much. Maybe you have links where I can find something else or you write me experiences. Since it was an online purchase in the lockdown I could only look at the Volvo in photos and only at the used car place. Originally the Volvo drove a Volvo employee in Gothenburg and the service was done at Bilia in Sweden and the last at Volvo Göteborg AB. Then the Volvo was imported to Austria. Thanks already. LG Robert
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I’m back; oil lamp burns after AB ride, oil level cold but okay???
Hello dear community, after the SuFu has not delivered me a suitable result my question: For a long time I have been thinking about the near/after heavy motorway rides the oil control light burns (after a short stop) Yesterday as well, today I checked the oil level with cold engine and it was ok. Otherwise I refilled it quickly. I know that the good oil needs (despite changing oil traps). But why does the lamp burn even though there is enough oil on it? I change oil regularly (10 W40) with filter (with check valve from the accessories; no original)
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volvo 850 Combi deeper / which mature ? / tyre stretching
Moin, eternally chewed theme, unfortunately in the threads a lot of scrap and nonsense. The following: car: Volvo 850 Kombi, ’96, 106 KW, 2345ccm ( HSN/TSN 9101 741 ) I have now a coilover suspension, should next week. ( TA- Technix ) Of course then comes up in better weather after the winter also a new set rims/tires. Now I have read and heard of course, rim dealers often seem to know no more than on the homepage. I would like to go a little bigger than the original ones, 17″ it should already be ( or the 16″ at max. lower setting of about 60mm). I would like to come low, however, do not know how that goes with the wheelhouse and the penway. Who knows? I would like to ride 16×8,5 with a “stretched” 195/40/16. ( currently 205/50/16 on 6.5) I think original volvo, which look like a propeller.) Which ET I have to consider ? ( what the TÜV says is not quite a bit more difficult.
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Currently not online
Moin Volvisti, I can currently be nciht online for an indefinite period of time. At least not at home. Since moving to the attic with our study, the router has a problem to connect to ‘s wewwewe so far nobody knows what it is, but next week, competent help should arrive with us, which then at least says what is there and if you have to order new parts…So if in the meantime what should be please call. Phone number is in the profile Markus P.S. I have just answered all the accumulated PN’s.