Category: Honda Forum

Hello together, on the search for a small transporter or large station wagon I found then the 740 without tuv. (pictures in annex) 82 kw the B200F should be year 91. Engine sounds good and drives also clean has 341 ts run and I am the 5th owner. For the HU the brakes have to be made as well as the windshield (stone strike in the viewing area). Now it starts with the questions. I am not clumsy and have also changed brakes several times (Audi and VW) but at Volvo still Never, as I have already read, does the lock number not really help as far as the brakes are concerned because there should probably be different variants. What do I have to pay attention to when I order brakes ? Then I had read because you should not push back the brake pistons (I think that means the brake pressure cylinders (VW)) but with a special tool. Do you need this ? Many greetings Stefan

Hello all, recently I bought my dream car: Volvo 960 2.5 year 1995. It has only 125,000km of mileage. I noticed a small problem: in the stationary gas it jerks very easily, the speed needle moves up and down minimally. (almost not visible). More serious is that in the 1st course at low speed a real power hole occurs. i.e. I give gas and have the feeling that the engine swallows or it happens completely nothing. But this occurs only at low speed. The car has just received a fresh inspection including the change of all relevant filters. In addition, the workshop has found that the air supply or the plastic/rubber lines which air lead to the engine are porous. These have already been changed, unfortunately the problem has not been solved. There are no control lights on in the car. Autobahnfahrt etc. is all wonderful. What should I research (leave). I am baffled. Sorry my incompetent mail, i I have little idea of cars or the right terms. Thank you for any help. Christian

Hello, I’ve been reading here in the forum for some time now and I have a problem with myself. It’s about a Volvo 960 2.9 24V (204hp). The engine makes funny noises and I don’t know why. If you just tap the gas for a short time, the engine turns up once, then a drop-off comes and then it turns a bit higher. (Hope you see this on the video at the end. There the engine turns up two times in a row, although the throttle has only been opened for a short time.) and the valves were very loud. Workshop said that this would be normal. A week ago a new noise was added. It’s almost like a diesel engine. I localized it with (near) the water pump. It can’t lie on the belt, I degraded it for testing. The belt tensioner is also gone, but as long as it still rotates the inside remains. The consumption is also far too high (18-20L/100km). What can this be? Is the water pump broken? Now he has 204,000 on the clock, so soon would be on it again. I already did: – camshaft sensor – motor oil – servo oil scrubbing – spark plugs – air filter – cooling water – thermostat – gear oil compression measurement (ca 11-12 bar per cylinder) ECU –> no errors (1-1-1)http://www.vidup.de/v/faDrm/ Greeting Julian

Hello & good morning, on a motorway ride yesterday I noticed a slight “wummering” during my 240er. The recurring, sonorous hum occurs in the speed range between 120 and 140 KM/H and can be heard in this area always at the same time distance, so probably rather not depending on speed. (Sound picture attempt: Woooom pause Woooom pause… ) It is to be heard in 5th gear and disappears when I decouple in the mentioned speed range. In 4th gear could I don’t reproduce the hum, because the engine is just too loud. Since the noise disappears when uncoupled, you can probably exclude the tires as a cause. Is this noise (which then probably comes from the direction of the drive train?…) “normal”, i.e. a 240-typical form of self-resonance, or do I have any problem with the cardan shaft/the gearbox? The hum is not very loud, you can only hear it when all the windows are closed and the music is off. r a little advice, Dieter