Category: Honda Forum

Hello dear Volvo community I need your help. My father drives an XC60 from 2016, equipment line “Ocean Race”. Now it’s the case that I wanted to buy him new Xenon burners. Now there are differences – depending on whether the vehicle has Bi-Xenon or “normal” Xenon. 1. Can one of you tell from the picture which Xenon it is? 2. Does anyone know if there is a page where using the chassis number is possible to get the equipment list of the vehicle? Thanks E you in advance! Greetings

Hello forum, I have recently been on my V60 D2 (D4162T), BJ 2012, transmission MMT6, 250 000km predominantly long distance, the following problem: In driving mode without thrust I get a poltern / knock felt from the range engine compartment / front axle / exhaust system. i.e. if I give gas or am in thrust mode nothing is to be heard. If I walk on the level of the gas or the clutch kicks something knocks on each other. I had the following assumption: – Excluded / torn rubber suspension n on the exhaust system and/or defective/corroded holder – bearing Torque support defective/excluded – engine bearing emptied I had the car today on the lifting platform (relieving load via sleepers, i.e. axles) and first could not detect any clear damage or a place where you can see the contact or a tight spot: – The suspension rubbers and holders in the rear area all look good. – The two suspension rubbers on the holder Exhaust system in the berei ch VA (see photo) look a little bit elongated but not cracked or similar. I don’t think they are the problem, but they still look too good. But maybe I’m wrong here as well. – The torque support looks inconspicuous at first, but I don’t know exactly what the bearing looks like in the new state (see photos) I can’t really confirm that the influence of thrust operation is much larger when it comes to unevenness. I have changed the VA crossbars and coupling bars at 150 000 km. Unfortunately, I can’t show any interlocking on the lifting platform or any load / twisting of the drive to the car. One could perhaps let the clutch grind while the brake is closed and see how strongly the engine is twisted.About advice or tips what I could still check I would be VERY grateful. – Could it possibly also be a are the drive shafts that are then unobtrusive under load and clatter without load? -How can you determine (measured) that the engine bearing / torque support is over? -Are there any known problems with certain parts or common suspects in the series?

Hello together, I am currently moving a V70 D5244T4 D5 almost exclusively on short distance with morning and evening over 10km each. I notice that this car with 12l/100km consumes extremely much. On cross-country journeys the consumption drops quickly to 6,5l/100km. My experience with other vehicles with the same engine are significantly lower consumption even in short distance operation. Spritmonitor confirms my experience. Have you got a tip on what I could do to convert uchsmindern to work? Thank you and many greetings!

Hello together and a nice 1st May, I have loved it for a long time and now it should be put into action: I want to buy a V60. But which engine do I take? I’ve read a lot, but I don’t have such a good idea. Basically, I don’t care whether petrol or diesel. I want to have at least 150 hp, Euro 5 or Euro 6 doesn’t matter. It should only be a problem-free engine, I don’t want to buy a new engine every 30tkm. My driving profile is a good mix of city, country and highway, every year I drive so 20-25tkm. The V60 with diesel is much more common, the prices are far below those of the gasoline. Therefore, the purchase price speaks a lot for a diesel. But there you read a lot of engine damage. That makes me unsure. So what can you recommend me? VEA or Volvo 5-cylinder? D3, D4, D5 or more T3, T4, T5 or even T6 (6-cylinder)? Thank you in advance!

Hello dear community, I now have this problem soon for 2 years and I slowly don’t know any more.The following problem occurs with my Volvo XC 60 D4 AWD Bj 2016 140′ km I start the car and in idle run it jerks a bit (sporadic and not really bad but noticeable) With relaxed rides up to approx.70 kmh in each aisle so around the 1500 rpm and the foot slightly on the gas, he then jerks again more times less but also very sporadic again. In cold condition meh r, if it is warm rather less. The following history: The whole thing started with the error message that the air mass meter is defective. The error was connected with emergency running program and reduced engine power. I then replaced the sensor and the error was gone. Shortly afterwards the same error came back and it was found that the pressure box for the AGR valve is defective (there is some plastic part broken off). We replaced the pressure box, at the same time e r but all of a sudden started extremely to soot and there was already the jerking. I drove around so unfortunately a few weeks until it turned out that the turbo hose was nailed or had holes. Turbo hose renews soot away, jerking still there and he sank out of the exhaust. Then at the next AU then found that the exhaust values are utopianly high and that probably lies on the DPF. We had it removed then and found that it is broken. New D PF and Kat in. Now he no longer stinks out of the back, but from the engine compartment for badly burned diesel and the jerking is still there. The AGR valve is loudly friendly smooth and the pressure can intact. I had the feeling that the jerking 2 – 3 days after the exchange of the DPF and Kat was as good as gone until then it came back after all. Maybe someone has a remote diagnosis?? The error memory is currently empty. We don’t know what else is unnecessary to getausc We need to know until we have a solution. Thank you in advance and greetings Simon