MOTOR-TALK

Category: Honda Forum

  • Oil level measurement C30 1.6D

    Moin, so yesterday I replenished some wiping water and was amazed to get almost 4l into it… Where I was then just trying to look for oil and so on… But, somehow it doesn’t work out with the 1.6D to read off a reasonable oil level. Yesterday evening, about 1.5h after setting off the vehicle on a flat surface, oil rod out, wipe away completely again and carefully looked, the complete yellow cone is covered with oil. 3-4 times tries not to get an oil level between the two markings, always the complete cone covered with slightly black oil. Again 3h waited, no success. This morning (>12h later) after “overnight” also no success. What’s my thinking error? rod maybe not entirely to measure?! How to normally measure the oil level is clear to me, so please not a principle discussion…. – Is it possible that I can easily measure the level of oil right there? – Is my oil level just too high? – I have this Castrol Longtec 0W30 oil in there, and the coolness of a few times.

  • C30 T5

    Hello, I looked at the driving performance of the C30 T5 and the Golf GTI. The C30 T5 is at least equal to the performance. C30 T5 Golf GTI from 0 to 100kmh 6.7 sec. 6.9 sec. specified top speed 240 kmh 238 kmh 230 hp 210 hp Admittedly, the GTI uses its 210 hp better than the T5. But for me, nevertheless, only the C30 T5 could be considered. In my view, the C30 is more the wolf in sheep’s clothing.

  • Ex-BMW driver has now switched to Volvo – and has a couple of questions…

    Hello everyone, I would like to introduce myself briefly, since I will certainly look past here several times in the future 😉 My name is Matthias, 25 years old and recently proud owner of a 2002 Volvo V70 Bi-Fuel “Premium” with currently 98tkm on the clock. As my nickname already says, I was connected to the BMW warehouse before – but as I am convinced of driving with natural gas, and my girlfriend has been driving a BMW 316g Compact with natural gas for a long time, we decided to buy a second gas car. So far I am very satisfied with the Volvo (but I also drove only 500 km) – but I already have the first error message in the display: “Bremsassist – Maintenance required” The message comes only sporadically (until now 3x). I have seen when switching to the winter tires that the brake pads are due soon – has that possibly to do with it, or are it the “sensitive sensors”? And now my next question could tell me which CD Wechsler to fit to the Volvo Radio HU 603. I have already offered to me an Ebay too expensively for me.

  • XC70 – I dared

    Hello together, also I will now switch to the Volvo drivers. Up to now I have been safely driven by Volkswagen and Opel, but the current product range is not interesting compared to the Volvo both optically and pricewise. Ordered at the beginning of September by the friendly. XC70 D5 185PS Russian particulate filter AWD summum with automatic color: sapphireblackmetallic Inside: Leather Anthracite Aluminium dark matt Accessories: – Alarm system – sw. dependent servo – suspension Four-C – RTI Navi – GSM Phone – standing heating with remote control – rear seat 40/20/40 – rear seat warning system – residual heat – two stages closure – MagCharge Preparation – rear warning lights (Blitzer) – motor circuit extension Since the automatic is only installed from the 40KW, my now binding in the 43KW.

  • Service costs XC90

    Good evening, everyone! I bought an XC90 diesel from a Volvo dealer in the southern NÖ, Mödling, and I am very happy. Today the car came to the obligatory service at 20000 km. Before the service I have still not filled the storage tank of the washing machine up to the go with disk cleaner. In the evening I brought the car and see: 1 lit disc cleaner by 2.64 0.5 lit cooling liquid by 1.95 filter insert by 13.80, seal by 1.56 and filter by 52,– Euro, beside oil, plugging on winter bikes and rental car in total at least 519,14 Euro. If I had not filled up the disk cleaner, the rest would not have occurred to me. The mechanic said, when testing, the guys in the workshop certainly consumed a liter. Can I in a year at all 0.5 lit KÜhlfluid plus Wassser lose? If then the dealer is still close because of the opinion computer, what should I keep from a workshop, which rented me by 35 Euro and when the transfer says: Sprit is still able to leave the station or leave the station?

  • Cooling water problem

    Volvo V40 BJ.2002 200000km Help we have a problem that doesn’t end:Short report From November 2010: pressure in the cooling water tank, heating goes only occasionally, still heating is no longer possible or the engine is not warm, cooling water is not in the container, when you turn it up it comes up with high pressure. Condition worsens, car starts to cook constantly.Thermostat changed February 2011: heating went no more, cooling water is constantly missing, but does not run out, after that repair of the head seal, lid exchange from the cooling water tank. Car drives 2 weeks without problems, afterwards the same thing again: cooling water is not in the container, much pressure, heating is cold, temperature display goes up, car cooks, afterwards the heating goes away if you are lucky. This time however, there are stains under the car. Workshop means now the cooler jumps too late, want to change the feeler now. know how said I didn’t want to laugh again, but according to measurement everything is closed. Please have left 2000 euros in the workshop. Can it be my friend’s built?

  • Older Volvo S 40 wanted … a few tips would be nice

    Hello, I’m new here and it would be nice if experienced Volvo drivers could give me some tips. I would like to buy an older Volvo S40 for every day 40 km of work journey. Definitely no V40 or any other station wagon. I would like to buy an S 40 year 2003/2004 – so the last ones from this series. Normally would be completely long with the 1.8 year, but I read here that this one has a Renault gearbox and I don’t want that. I don’t find any useful overview page from which the fitting of the respective transmissions etc. shows. I know that car would be very old, but I had a 22 year old Japanese driver for this work journey, who would have driven for a long time if they hadn’t broken it. So … is your opinion after the S 40 of this generation suitable for my purpose? A non-hooking gearbox would also be one of the few prerequisites, as well as not too narrow seats with a bit of side support for the thighs due to belt disc problems would be nice, but utopian. The 2.0T was recommended here elsewhere, since no Renault gearbox and rather volvotypically it looks like the best of your opinion.

  • Rust under sill cover: check it out.

    Now, have removed the sill panel at the driver’s side today (to expand the fender). And although sometimes nothing could recognize at the edges of this panel, the sill panel at a corner (back) is totally marode. Could pierce with a screwdriver so through. Also the fender itself was totally rusty at the underside, where it is covered by the panel. I think it is a real flaw and we are lucky that the Tüv examiners do not remove the sill panel. Who dares to remove the panel and controls his elk there? Simply put it well in the underfloor protection. I guess it is there with many marode/rusted., perfectly disguised by underbody protection (so a kind of rubber layer) and just this paneling. The panel itself is to blame. Behind the panel is a kind of water film, which only slowly dries out. Keyword: cappilar effect.

  • Braided disks / lean ventilation

    Finally, it is nice and cold again outside… Unfortunately, the windows in my V40 are fogged very quickly from the inside and the blower seems to be overwhelmed, especially with the windshield. The problem is big enough, if you sit alone in the car, but only to 4. … Then only by hand helps wipe away, with the sponge. Even if the heating is already nice warm and you start to sweat, the windows still pop up quite quickly from the inside. I had the problem with my old V40 also already… In the V70, however, this does not pose a big problem. Even 5. the windows are hardly fogged; and if so, then the window is blown free again in a few seconds. (That’s where Volvo has worked more hard? ) I have installed a new pollen filter and cleaned the filter housing of leaves. I also cleaned the windows with glass cleaner. Without success. I have already read here in the forum that the ventilation channels in the dashboard would solve and thus the air flow is affected. But the topics are already a few years old… Does anyone have a problem?

  • Medium silencer replacement?

    Hello guys, my mid-muffler needs to be new and I wanted to ask what your experiences with accessory dampers are like. As I see it, there are the things of Bosal, Walker and Vegaz. Which one of them lasts the longest, or has the best quality and is not too loud? Thank you and greetings DOIT