Hello! I’m a proud owner of a 92′ 850. Unfortunately I already have problems, most of them relatively no matter, but my ABS doesn’t work anymore. When I start it, the ABS light goes off, the brake pedal makes a click. Also stays out until I brake strongly for the first time. It feels like it’s a little bit clean, but then it doesn’t do anything and the lamp lights up. I’ve already measured the sensors. One at 950, all other at 1000-1100 Ohm. The diagnostics LED (on 3 A) just lights up, the button doesn’t do anything, I don’t come any further. I’ve read that the control unit should be soldered properly, too, now doesn’t know any more…. I hope you can help here.
Category: Honda Forum
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V40 1.9 d Purchase advice
Hello dear V40 municipality, wanted to ask you what you think of the offer of an acquaintance. Volvo V40 1.9 D 85 KW Year of manufacture 04/2003 85000 km X-Sight + Comfort Edition Checkbook maintained (dental belts, brake lines renewed at 81000 km) Accident-free (is credible since I know the person who is the victim well) 8 times matured (as good as new) Garage vehicle however Renter vehicle –> Short distance Condition in my opinion: Tip Top maintained, but some minor paint damage to the metal (about 1 year old) but no rust available yet. Presence 3000 slats Is this a fair offer? Have no experience with Volvo and Diesel. Will inevitably have to retrofit a DPF + pre-cat to get the green plaque.
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Consumption of your moose
Hello, would like to know what you are using with your elks, depending on the driving style, route profile and what you are traveling with, performance and what model is V40 or S40. To me: coach: V40 BJ: 00 engine: 1.8L (1,783) 90kw 122PS track profile: Mostly long distance, 2/3 highway + highway rest city consumption: ~7.4L/100km since spark plugs change, before ~7.8L/100km driving style I would say economical, but speedy in acceleration.
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Engine control lamp
Hello V40-community, after it burned about 2 weeks times for a day but is extinguished again, now for 3 days permanently the engine control light of my V40 1.8 from 2001. The car behaves largely inconspicuously, only in the cold run the car jerks back and forth discreetly. If it is warm, it runs perfectly. My question: Can the quite old spark plugs be the trigger for the motor control light? Let it be read out is probably the most meaningful step, or what do you mean?
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Turbo whistles from 4500U/min + engine stutters
Hello, I’m new here and I would like to introduce myself briefly, my name is Christoph is 21 years old and from Austria.. I bought a Volvo 850 T5 last year was quite happy with the vehicle until after about 8000km one of the Pleullager failed, well then I put the engine and the turbo again and sealed off.. At the beginning everything was good and after about 3000km I wanted to try the turbo and quickly noticed that he did not build a charging pressure, then made the py-pass membrane new and washed out all the underpressure lines and the charging pressure control valve with cold reamer, the first 100km was all perfekt until then short from 4500 rpm a whistle was heard and the engine stuttered, ignition shut out immediately from the there is all new up to ignition cable and ignition module, error code was also negative. My thought out are the charging pressure hoses could cause the problem..
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Please help if possible
Hi there, now with the replacement of my defective engine I have problems with the running culture. In order to contain all contingencies immediately. With the replacement of the engine at the same time, the alternator, timing belts, water pump, clutch incl. 2-mass swing wheel, 3 of 5 ignition coils and the air mass meter like all spark plugs ( original Volvo for turbo engine ) were replaced. Both lamda probes were also replaced. Now to the final end, the elk runs like a sack of nuts. At constant speeds ( 1800 – 2000 rpm ) it jerks with soot output on the exhaust. But the pull-through force is there, with slight jerks in between connected, the fuel consumption is also significantly increased. In the state it can not hold the 900U/min and falls to 400-500 rpm, with ignition dropouts and again Rußausflussung on the exhaust.
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Infinite history front axle Volvo V70
Hello Mens , I am in despair … After now 3 forum entries, attention to all your tips and today’s change of the right joint shaft and again new brake discs ala ATE … are, how can it be different, my vibrations still there! AAAAAAahhhhhhhhhh ….. 🙁 … from about 110 km/h I have very unpleasant permanent vibrations in the steering wheel which pull up to 160 km/h … then reigns reasonably calm. Very untypical therefore for rims and tires, whereby the tires are 2 months young and the rims run completely clean (OZ 1000 miglia) with 205/55 R17 …. Here is a small set up of parts from this year: cross handlebars l+r axial joints l+r joint shafts l+r tyres front l+r brakes front brake complete shock absorbers front axle measurement coupling rods wheel bearings front l+r tyres forward So … and now you … I just don’t know any more. Thanks for your help.
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Type of marking(s) on the KW belt disc for control times / timing belts ?
Moin, maybe I need a pair of glasses or there’s a 3rd variant of the KW label for timing/dental belt ? From “Uncle”-Robert’s (as always perfect) video (at time -> 2:43) one can apparently see a kind of additional disc, which reproduces the teeth, is arranged behind the KW belt disc and then offers behind 2 neighboring teeth 2 indentations. On 6th picture this article could be seen after intense staring at the back/top (on the right side of the very well-recognizable block marking (nase) lying tooth) a notch … at the left side of the tooth lying next to it’ I see at best will not from picture 3 of the very good photos from last year’s Thread of ‘Schimming’, one can at least after a few – zooming in – a notch at the end of a tooth is clearly visible. I had a predetermined 5 times the KW(!) responsibly the ‘Tanging around’ of the ‘Nimming’, but ‘I had not noticed the ‘becoming’ in front of the mark.
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Accident with over 130km/h on the BAB!
Sorry for the rough words. Is it true! Explanation: Last Sunday I was short in the hospital because a Toyota GT from the middle lane on the highway hit our Volvo on the left lane and pushed into the guardrail. Photos of the “accident opponent” and our 850 TDI. I could brake on the front of the rims without tires still of a little over 130 km/h and drive from the far left to the right lane. Thank God: woman, children and dog are hardly injured, I have a few vertebrae dislocated and head, knees and shoulder injuries. This will all again with the time, only our elk, in which I had invested last autumn still 3,300€, has suffered a total damage for 18,000,-€. The OWN expert says: value before accident only 1,800,-€ , residual value 150,-€ Blöd, stupid and again stupid !!! Just that would not have been allowed to happen to me again? TDI with only 255,000 km and good equipment: Both tooth belts and inspection new with climate maintenance Krüber and gear change. Even the rear axle is protected for me.
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C30 T5 Power loss (especially) in the high speed range
Hello! My C30 T5, built in 2008, 55,000 KM, 230 HP Turbo 5 cylinders is a bit of a concern for me at the moment… I was with him recently on the highway. In the past he reached the top speed of 230-240 km/h, according to Tacho, without any problems, as pulled by a rubber band. Now he pulls from about 140 km/h only very slowly to about 190 km/h, it feels like he lacks at least 100 hp. In the lower speed range I notice no loss. There is still a good pull. But that’s my subjective feeling. I have not measured the time of 0-100 yet. The car was always regularly in inspections, directly at Volvo. The wear parts have always been replaced, I use the good 0W30 oil… Otherwise everything is still original at the car. The onboard computer also reports no faults. Had someone here already had the same problem? – Can it be that a hose in the area of turbo-conductor is still a little bit of pressure built up? Before all the bad pulling in the fourth gear. Or maybe the order is something better for me?