Hello dear forum, two weeks ago I wanted to get my C70 out of the winter break and drove to the underground car park/double parker to replace the vehicles. No sign of life at the C70 when activating the radio key (he has an alarm system…). Well, called the ADAC and he could revive it with a power bench. After that the car drove out of the TG and checked the charging power again at the surface of the earth… the ADAC man measured 63A, what goes out of the light engine in the battery and 9A in the vehicle. He said that this would not be a bad value for an 80Ah battery and meant that I probably didn’t have to change urgently. The battery has a sticker 2016, so I don’t want to complain. After 4-5 years, the things are just through. Now I’m looking for a power bank start aid and a new battery, mine is a lead acid, no AGM. In the TG I don’t want to keep groping around besides starting aid, so that I don’t have to fall under the double parkers. If someone has a tip for start aid/power bank, I don’t want to change the battery for me, I can’t let it be good for the battery.
Category: Honda Forum
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Who can help me Volvo V50 1.6 Diesel goes in emergency mode After reporting stability control Wart
After an odyssey of almost 2 years, the half-timbered workshops try to fix the fahler now in this forum. Error description. My Volvo V50 1.6 diesel year 07.09.2006 with a mileage of 174000 km has a power loss and the cause cannot find a Volvo and no Bosch. I have invested a lot of money in the causes analysis without success. From car battery to fuel filter everything has been replaced and replaced. Alternator injection valve 3.Cylinder leaks PDF filter removed and checked. In various forums V50 owners with diesel engine also complain more frequently about sudden power drop, whose cause also remained a mystery to the workshops for a long time. In many cases, the matter was solved with an exchange of the diesel particulate filter, others report on the replacement of the exhaust return valve. Nothing helped. Note when reading out Bosch Service 16.02.2016 2550 rail pressure too low 6710 exhaust return too low 1517 charging pressure control to high 0101 engine control unit signal unplausible A030 steering wheel angle sensor 0100 engine control signal. I have tried to make sure that there is no problem.
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Stand gas spins / motor control unit ?
My V40 2L Turbo built in 2002 has the problem that it often runs out in idle. If you turn it on, you have to wait for a few seconds and watch how the stationary gas settles in. First it is over 1000 u, then it falls off until shortly before, then it goes up to a normal measure at about 700 u again and stays there. If you do not wait for this procedure every time and starts immediately, you can assume that it runs out of the next idle. That’s annoying because you are used to turn on and start driving. Can it be that the engine control unit has lost the long-term memory (Alzheimer/Dementium)? Besides, the central locking only goes with the key into the driver’s door lock. Neither the radio nor the button in the interior solve the ZV. Can it all have to do with the engine control unit or, someone knows what comes into question? The workshop of my trust has first waved off and I said to the Volvo dealer. I would like to get some tips first.
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V40-Phase I – Rear side handlebars Detached at the bottom left – Remeasured track?
Servus together, I would have a question for you: I changed my dampers and springs today. As far as possible. Unfortunately, the screw from the damper was so fixed that I did not get it out so easily. So, I removed the damper with the lower crossbar and then further worked on the vice. After that, the crossbar is mounted again – dampers and springs come to it tomorrow. Now, after I had removed the “lower” crossbar, I have to have the track adjusted? I’m not so sure about that right now! I would be grateful about an answer! Greetings from Bavaria!!!
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V40 2.0T battery constantly empty, just don’t understand it
Moin love Volvo Community, after my company car is unfortunately not allowed to be a Volvo anymore, we have fortunately still our old Volvo V40 2.0T, BJ 1999 in the family. However, the small moose drives really only rarely, that means the battery is heavily used for the then still coming short drives. Now it has come to the point that I have to bridge it almost every time. If it is not moved every day at least 30km, it was that. The ADAC meant of the values the battery would be ok, it could be a hidden consumer. The interior lights (he used to always care for empty battery) are all off and on the radio I take off the control panel. Can it possibly be a relay that is not disabled at the turn off?? Just how do I go here? Another question: can this bad jump-on (he then always ticks so funny and the engine does not come to, but all the ads go on at the tried start) have something to do with the wedge belt?
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The loading edge fits from the old model year XC60
Again something about the loading edge. Volvo has, as is well known, improved the loading edge on the XC60 and I wanted to know what material this is from now on? (Alu?) and whether someone has already played with the thought to install the artificial edge of the old model year if it fits at all?
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Purchase advice: Used V70 for low-value drivers / high resale value
Hello dear forum community, after a few weeks of research I just try it with my own thread for our upcoming purchase decision. To the background: We are two; at the beginning of 30, so far without a child, live in a smaller city with a lot of land around it and have been the last 10 years without own car. In the first years still with Bahncard, then the last 2 years mostly with car rental we have noticed that simply the spontaneity, just times away In short, we finally want our own car In figures: In recent years, including fuel and train tickets/BC, we have always spent about 2500 € / year on mobility, of which a large part is due to the rental cars. Without having driven a lot of Volvo, we have had the combination of cars, cars, cars, cars, cars, cars, cars, cars, cars, cars, cars, cars, cars, etc. We have always been fascinated and therefore it was quickly clear to us that it must become something in the direction of V70 or XC 70. In the meantime we know concretely that it should probably be a V70 II or V70 III. But now one thing for us is actually not sure yet. We do not know if we want to keep the car permanently. So this is in about such an attempt for 2-3 years, in which we want to determine whether we like it permanently or yet switch to autoless again. (aside from a few other little things about the equipment) therefore, that we could sell the car on the one hand relatively quickly and with the slightest loss of value again, if we actually decide against it. Important core data: Yes, and that was it in principle already. Color, seat covers, other equipment and especially the motorization is still variable and we would (in principle) focus on how well the car can be sold again later on. h e.g. the V70 III with 145hp-sauger, which I find currently in the whole stock exchanges for low money at low KM; they seem to be absolute shopkeepers and seem to me to be somewhat undermotorized anyway. But what motorization is suitable? 2.0T, 2.4T, 2.5T, T5? What fits “to us”, and what is not a shopkeeper, but goes on well again? What extras should we necessarily have in it, because it is worth it in resale? So that we can make an optimal purchase decision tr effen, I am dependent on your help and experience. Look forward to all comments PS: What do you think of this offer for example: – would that be possible for our profile?
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Return or retain?
Hello, I did a Volvo V70 III D5 `09, >150tkm last week. In the purchase contract, the friendly person took all the special equipment that was stated on his homepage down from the purchase contract, with the statement that it might be very expensive for him, if something is stated, which is not installed, and I would demand it. – until now everything is available to me. On Tuesday I found out that in this a performance increase was carried out by software from Heico. – I had to point out to the dealer ;-), in the appearance was nothing specified. However, I am now very unsure because of the software found by chance, since the vehicle was also maintained by him check booklet. This software is still active according to his statement… The friendly person offers me a deletion of the software… The vehicle has an automatic transmission, how very “couldn’t” (must not necessarily have been heated up by my old opinion)? I tend at the moment to give back the vehicle, even if a familiar, which meant for engine development… the engine does not have anything to do with the engine, but of course – I don’t have a bad opinion.
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Navigation update
hello, I need an information: wanted to make an update of the navigation maps and buy the dvds. now I absolutely need the activation code for this? where do I get this and how much does it cost? can I buy dvds from ebay that don’t have such a code that will work?
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Battery charging
As a short-distance driver, I have repeatedly received from my V70 the indication that the battery level is low. Until now, there has never been a problem to start the car. Today, I had the problem that it only went manually (see error message). Where is there the logic to prohibit the car from starting via power management when the car produces more power than it consumes after starting? What charging alternatives are there if there is no power outlet available? (except half an hour driving in a circle, of course)