Category: Honda Forum

Need help at the moment drive a V70 Bj 2009 with 2.4 liter diesel and 163hp Is a D5244T5 In the fault memory there are misfires in the 5 cylinder. Occasionally it jerks for about 10 to 20 sec and then it runs normal again. Does occur at constant speed but also with fast upturning. The correction value of the 5 cylinder is considerably increased. Does this speak for a defective injector? If yes, where can I have it repaired best? Thanks already.

Now that we’re driving our Swede Steamer happy for over 2 months, I drove him past the local Volvo-friends to check and ask two, three things. The look did not bring anything surprising to light, the friendly service consultant attested to our Bj.11 a great condition, except for the following things: – longitudinal handlebar bushings behind worn/rusted. Must be changed, as otherwise there is no TÜV in the next year. But is so much I know a more familiar problem – belt lock passenger side sometimes makes mucking when opening – oil moisture at the end of the crankcase ventilation for fresh air intake (filter turbocharger). And there comes – it should be replaced the whole fresh air channel from filter to turbocharger (TN:31657655) – part price 161€?? That’s why I had to swallow it briefly. All this because then the LMM has to be exchanged with it. About sense and nonsense can be argued here. How should the exchange because – do you not have experience? Otherwise I will not find the part to buy you?

I sold my V70 II AWD and bought me an XC70 year 2010. Both D5. Better start, better damped chassis, a bit better (or less bad9 impact, otherwise a few progresses. Unfortunately, 0.5 liters more diesel with the same driving style despite a slightly more modern engine. (new 8.7l real consumption mixed driving mode, partly >170km/h). I could already get rid of some little nervousness from the new one (auto mirror flaps etc.). Something I don’t pack: the rear flap motor whirls around, even if I don’t need it. When I close the rear door that works: If I do it right (close it all and snap it), the engine remains quite quiet. But when opening it doesn’t work: always surrise. I’m doing something wrong? Is there a way to open the door without the best engine? Or can I also shut the engine completely? Is there an extra fuse that would be removable? I don’t use that at all. If I don’t do anything wrong, then let me do something wrong, then let me open the door without the devil, because I need to move again.

Hello friends, after my engine placer in February 2012 at my S60 D5 MJ2004, bought a used S80 D5 MJ2007 with 116TKm. Today on Sunday I came home and saw that under my car was an oil pool. Conclusion: Panning service dragged him to my dealer, then review is probably done in the next two days. Question: What’s going on with the Volvo engines or gears at present? Is the engine D5 from MJ2004 with problems? With my first Volvo, S60 Black MJ2001 D5, I drove without any problems! I am very angry because I have no used car warranty and already learned that although I bought the vehicle in February 2012 there is no guarantee because I bought it as an entrepreneur. Can I give someone a constructieve recommendation here in the forum? Greeting Markus

yesterday the first time the wiper water indicator lighted up with me. – So I have to say, again one of the things that were better regulated in the V50: there it was like this: “Filling up the wiper water” lit up for about 12 seconds, then went into the memory and with every washing process it lighted up again! that made absolutely sense! – at the V60 it is like Audi, the thing lights up for a few seconds, then disappears again by a few minutes later to light up again, the emptyer the container, the more often it happens – but irregularly – here you can exceptionally talk of luck, that it does not even go with an acoustic signal, because it annoys in Audis by the constant on and off. But the function that it lights up when the wash lever is activated, there is obviously no longer any longer

I have noticed the following with my Xc60 and would like to know if it is similar with you. If I set the cruise control for example 100, then the speedometer needle is not at 100 but something below. If I then raise the cruise control to approx. 101, 102, 103, then the speedometer needle shows exactly at 100. The same applies at other speeds. Is this also so, or should I address mine on a calibration? Thank you Greetings Christian