Hello, as already described in another thread, I would like to buy with a used V50 BJ 2005 MJ2005. I have a question about climate maintenance. In the manual I can find nothing about this. At what intervals does this have to be carried out? Is this part of the annual inspections or must be explicitly commissioned. (In the service booklet there are a lot of test points, however, nothing of the climate maintenance is written here) So can one assume that the maintenance was done (if necessary)? Greeting mr.cracky
Category: Honda Forum
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AGR Valve Exchange – Lifetime guarantee from Volvo?
I bought a Volvo XC60, built in 2015, D3 – 150 hp. I bought it with 93000km. Now it has about 116000km down. I bought it in the car dealership, was completely cared for by Volvo checkbook. On the basis of this I saw, however, that the previous owner has driven only short distances since Corona, because between the services were 7000 – 9000km. I drove the car about 17000km and then the engine control light lit, but disappeared again. The engine output went into the cellar over time and the average consumption was 6,7L. Fortunately, I had a warranty when buying it. Drive to the Volvo workshop and the error was the AGR valve. Cost point 1723,70€ for the exchange of the AGR valve and cooler. 60% of the material I had to pay anyway, the rest the guarantee. Now the vehicle runs perfectly again, passing through fits again and the consumption went down to 5,6L on average. In the workshop mei If I understood correctly that the AGR cooler + valve has a lifetime warranty from now on, since it has now been improved and has larger inlet slots than the previous one of 2015. Also, this should now be a unit. My question would be, you know something about it, can this be true with the lifetime warranty? Thank you in advance. PS: I myself drive medium long distance. Tanke Aral/BP Premium Diesel and use the Ravenol EFS oil, which has a low A In addition, change the oil every 10-12k km.
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AGR valve
Is it possible to change the AGR valve without the evacuation of the cooling water? Many thanks in advance for the answers!
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New V60 driver and comparison to the Mercedes W204
Hello Moose friends… As a newcomer to the forum of the Volvo drivers, and fresh V60 driver, I wanted to get involved a little bit, and with a few experiences, and a little look over the plate, or for those who might think of changing to other warehouses, the forum. Therefore, I have my experiences after my change from a palladium grey Mercedes C220 CDI Elegance Saloon MJ 2013 to a Volvo V60 D4 Summum MJ 2018 in savillegrau a little bit I came to Volvo rather by chance, after I had tried some competitors (in the lower middle class and classic middle class, it really shouldn’t be bigger) and in many I didn’t find a suitable seating position for me (Bin good 1.90, and slim), and that’s where it fit. The current C-Class would have fit to this, but somehow doesn’t agree with me in your look inside and outside, besides, the arg bre As a brand, Volvo was always nice to me, I had seen the V40 when I bought the C-Class, but at the time it was a little too expensive. Moreover, the moose density here is rather low, the nearest dealers are about 40 km away, except if you look around in the neighbouring country, you don’t live 10 km away from the Dutch borders. There, the density of the Volvo is much bigger, and the near-border dealers are very close to each other. Whether a look over the border is worth it, I will find out for the next inspection. In advance: I left the Mercedes, because after almost 5 years C-Class I just wanted to have something else again. The Mercedes was reliable in the time, due to damage there was only one water pump to repair on almost 100,000 km due to water loss (probability, known error) and a pressure sensor on the turbocharger (guarantee), otherwise there was only inspe It is interesting to note that the inspections at Mercedes were even cheaper than at my VWs before, but only on the edge. I am curious whether the Volvo will be equally easy and sufficient. Last week the Benz was allowed to leave me, and since then I have been driving the moose through the country. To me and my driving profile: I am in the middle / end 30, employee, living on the Lower Rhine, and my driving profile are working routes in the country, every day 25 km away and nd retour, and regularly longer distances on the motorway through half of Germany, but hardly any city traffic. Bodywork: Design is a matter of taste, I don’t let myself go further, but both are very pleasant vehicles. From the outside, however, both look neatly processed, whether one or the other is better, I can hardly say after the rather short time. What is definitely noticeable is the much wider body of the Volvo, both when driving, as well as in the interior. D The inside width of the driver’s seat at the Volvo is a bit bigger, and looks a bit more airy, although I personally liked the somewhat narrower seat position in the Benz (and especially its longer and further forward reaching middle armrest), but it is comfortable in both. However, it is striking in comparison the a good bit higher seat position in the Volvo when entering the car. The seats in the Mercedes were already without rebuke, 400, 500 in the piece went without big problems, but the seats in the Vol I can so far only judge the long-distance suitability over a maximum of 200 km, because so far it fits. Both do not necessarily offer space in abundance in view of your external dimensions, i.e. as family cars tend to be a little narrow, but sufficient. In the longitudinal direction the differences are therefore small, the multi-width of the Volvo can of course be noticed inside, both on the seats, as well as in the trunk, which is clearly wider than that of a C-Class-combis (ken The clarity of the body was quite neat with the Mercedes (okay, the end of the limousine is also difficult to recognize, but with the station wagon this is possible), while the Volvo in particular is quite confusing with the very thick columns and rather small windows. Parking aid and rear-view camera are certainly not completely unnecessary here… With regard to operation the two are different somewhere, but after short acclimatization quite With the Mercedes there was one or other special feature, such as the wiper in the blinker lever, or the partly operation of settings via steering wheel / speedometer display, with the Volvo you have to work through the menu depths of the sensus, but well, you don’t do that every day. However, the Volvo offers significantly more possibilities of settings like the Mercedes. In terms of interior quality and appearance, the Mercedes was without question very good, knew no flap rn, the built-in material made a very high-quality, well-processed impression and still looked almost like new after 5 years. The Volvo is in comparison a bit more plastic-heavy, in some places with a little less attention to detail, but also here nothing clatters, and the things that one touches with a lot of energy also make a high-quality and stable impression. Comparisons in terms of equipment would be rather unfair at this point, and I leave here now, we While the Mercedes was rather an accountant model (parking aid, nav, seat heating..), the Volvo is equipped with everything the price list gives (all possible driving assistants (which I would like to leave out here now, still too little tested, leather, standing, steering wheel, heating front + rear, ACC, sound system, Xenon adaptive, Keyless…). Just a note about the seat heating, which I use a lot, at this point, while the in the Mercedes was rather weak, and slowly warmed, is the Vol. engine / transmission: of the basic data, the cars are comparable, 170hp /400 NM / 7-speed automatic in the Benz, 190hp / 400 NM / 8-speed automatic in the Volvo. The final driving performance is also quite similar, but the driving impression is different. Where the Mercedes needed relatively (very) long distances with the accelerator to generate power, the Volvo is rather the opposite, which produces already on the first piece of gas pedalwe g a lot of performance. Especially in the transition phase, this was and is still very used to, whereby you can defuse this with the Eco button in the Volvo somewhat. For me, a middle thing from both normal settings would actually be ideal, but now… For everyday life, both offer more than sufficient driving performance, and sometimes briefly overtake on the country road, or pull into a gap on the highway is no problem. In comparison, however, the Mercedes in the lowest speed range seems to me (<1 500 tours) to generate significantly more torque than the Volvo, and thus seemed a little more powerful in the relaxed acceleration. The impression disappears, however, as soon as you drive a little faster, then it is comparable. The gearboxes of both cars have a anything but a small share of the pleasant and powerful impression of the drive. Both switch almost without a jerk (except for kickdown or similar, but the m.M. can also be ...), and mostly senseless. i both transmissions. The 7-g-Tronic in the Mercedes allowed the diesel to rotate relatively high in comparison when accelerating as soon as a little more load was applied, despite the early torque, which led to a corresponding noise development (more about that later..), but with very quiet acceleration it also switched very early. Above that the Benz switched in the lower 3, 4 gears with a quiet driving mode clearly more, and also left the engine often times with 1000 tours un d drive an open converter, whereas he almost doesn't know Volvo the open converter at all, and as a result occasionally generates slightly higher speeds when driving slowly (in the 2nd or 3rd gears). In contrast, the gearbox switches up very early even with comparatively high engine load in the higher gears, it only very rarely spins engine times beyond 2000 tours, except that you are really on the move quite quickly. In order to have the Mercedes switched so early, ma In contrast, I can't say so much about consumption, but I don't have the Volvo long enough to do so. Depending on the driving method, the Mercedes moved between just under 5 (summer, quiet long distance or country road) and 6 (winter, country road and max. 25 km distance, or highway with 140, 150 ca....) liters / 100 km, and as far as I trust the on-board computer of the Volvo so far, the A pleasant advantage of the Volvo, however, is the 68-litre tank, which already allows quite ample ranges, whereby the 59 liters of the Benz let me see range forecasts of 1400 km... At the end of the day, however, both pleasant engine transmission combinations with more than enough power and only very low criticisms. Comfort: In the context of criticisms of the engine, however, one of the engines of the Mercedes clearly comes to bear, namentli While the engine of the Mercedes remains calm in the background, the running noise under load is quite rustic, and can be heard and felt very clearly. The fact that the automatic then preferred even a little higher speeds did not make the whole thing better... In comparison, the engine of the Volvo is very quiet, and one perceives it under normal conditions, if only very much in the background. As a petrol engine, it does not go too far. ch, but for a diesel engine it is very smooth, and quiet, really audible, the engine only becomes under load at significantly higher speeds, which can only be seen very rarely thanks to the automatic. However, the driving comfort with regard to chassis (both cars roll on 16-inch) was somewhat more the domain of the Mercedes, which feathered more sensitively, softer, and the road conditions more successfully veiled, while the Volvo rolls off a little more binding, by no means uncomfortable abel, but still a bit tighter, and much more damped. In addition, the noise feedback from a bad roadway gets through a bit more clearly than in the Mercedes. Uncomfortable, or hard I would definitely not call the Volvo. I had already mentioned the seating comfort above, air conditioning automatics work on both cars without blame, the Volvo can comfortably influence the blower intensity even in automatic mode, the corresponding option f This is the difference between driving comfort, the Mercedes is rather heavy, early understeering, with somewhat heavy steering, which gives a good feedback, while the Volvo can be driven around the corners much faster, later on it can feel its limits. In the Volvo you can feel the same curvy pieces compared to the Merc I understandably never wanted to try out where these limits are at the end.... The steering of the Volvo is a good bit smoother than that of the Mercedes (this is ultimately a matter of taste, which is more dear to you...) but unfortunately also a good piece of feeling less. Moreover, it is obvious that the turning circle of the Volvo is quite large, where it is located. you parked with the Mercedes without any problems, or came around, you have to look with the Volvo partly really, that it fits, or if necessary reset. On long distance the Volvo runs a little more relaxed straight ahead, and can be brought less by side wind, or road crossings out of the track like the Mercedes, which in particular traversed roads sometimes a bit afterwards. Nevertheless, I have always enjoyed driving long distances from the Mercedes and also very relaxed, and am a good thing e that this will also work in the Volvo, the future will show. So much for the first impressions, so far I do not regret my change, and I am good things that in the coming years I will be as happy with the Volvo as with the Mercedes so far. I can recommend at least both cars, both have their specific pros and cons, but serious points, which made here advised by one or other, have not occurred to me. I hope that my experiences , if someone is playing with the thought of a change, or simply wants to look over the edge of the box, help. Otherwise... If someone has questions, or suggestions, always with it... let's see if I can answer them... Apart from that, I will also gladly try to help, read along, discuss with you, even if here with the moose of course a little quieter as with the star cruisers, but for this he is also clearly interested in ernehmer. I look forward to some nice and helpful discussions. Oh yes.... Before the question arises... with pictures I can't serve right now, but I think the net offers enough pictures to both vehicles in factory execution.
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Still looking for help or good tips – so far everything has been unsuccessful
I drive a VOLVO V70 D3 automatic from the year 2017. The vehicle has the following problem regardless of weather, temperature, driving situation or other circumstances: After a few minutes driving time the instrument cluster, the on-board computer, the radio, all displays, simply everything that can be displayed electronically. In addition, the electric boot opening, as well as the indicator does not work. If I then stop, a few minutes wait with the motor switched off and with Locked doors, the error is usually gone again. Often it comes again once, twice and then rests for the rest of the ride. No error codes are filed, the battery is new and the last inspection is 6 weeks ago and even there the error was detected, but not fixed because nobody knew what to do. 2 Volvo contract workshops have already bitten their teeth and found nothing and also told me clearly that you don’t even know where you are. I need more help here in the forum, because no one can help me on the part of the manufacturer.
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Injector Coding
Hello together, I have the exciting problem that Volvo can’t encode my original Bosch injectors. The Volvo system rejects a calibration. The new injectors knock something. In the environment there is no other provider that can enter the IMA codes to me. Supposedly the injectors would be outside the tolerance for “Volvo”. The injectors fit for my car, 2x tested. I can’t imagine Bosch offering injectors outside the tolerance as an OEM here. Is it possible to encode the injectors in the ECU with VDash or is there a similar problem? Thank you and greetings
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A few questions about the V40 Cross Country
Hello, I have a few questions about the Volvo V40 CC: Is the chassis comparable to that of the normal V40 MJ13 ? (I’m talking about comfortable driving) Do you feel the few mm increase ? Does it pay to buy a good annual car now as a private buyer, or should you rather wait for the new XC40 ? Greetings P.S.: Which color is better .. Osmium grey or denim blue ? What should you not miss when buying (equipment)
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Roll-off noises and polterns
Hello, I’m a little surprised about the rolling comfort of my Swedes. With changing surface, there is a very different sound setting e.g. with smooth road surface it’s absolutely quiet, with rough surface then very loud, also a poltern is present on bad roads. Have Pirellis as summer tires, and now winter tires are on it-no difference. Is the construction reason and normal (e.g. because of the tight chassis)?, I could not drive a comparison vehicle yet. gru ß Oliver
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Diesel conversion Euro 5 to Euro 6
Hello together, does someone here know if Volvo plans to convert the diesel from Euro 5 to Euro 6? I asked abe at Volvo, but have not received an answer yet.
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ABS control unit itself repaired
After the ABS only sporadically, then more and more often and at the end almost no longer worked at all and he said the error message was “wheel sensor defective, proved again the value of our forum here. These are quite exactly the symptoms of the typical soldering problem in the ABS control unit. What he takes for a standard repair, we rather shun over it. There are companies that work up the control units, but there are then also 200 €. There are still these and this The details are well illustrated in the above instructions, so only a few additional comments from me: Since you only take off the electronic part, you can even drive without it, but should not, because the tacho does not work. The four screws are somewhat exotic, such a kind of inverse torx, i.e. cones instead of hole, but you can easily use a 4-mm plug. Since the whole thing hangs diagonally down, you don’t see anything, but it still works quite well. I got the ring clamps on the four screw sleeves down with a small screwdriver and at the end also put on it again. The opening of the seal is guaranteed not without damage to the housing. But that’s not so bad. I broke the outer collar of the lower part all around (it breaks almost by itself), then as much silicone as possible out of the body. The circuit board sits close to the edge. If you have destroyed enough silicone, you can get the lid down well. On the circuit board there is a transparent cover, which can be pulled off visibly. The best way to remove the areas to be soldered completely, it is no longer airtight at the end of the day. I soldered all the contacts on both sides of the circuit board. cker, that works with a normal (not very small) electronic soldering iron, some colophonium and additional soldering quite well, if necessary you have to stay on it until everything is properly heated and the solder flows properly. I sealed the whole thing again with a Uhu polymer sealant, silicone goes too, but I didn’t want to start a complete cartridge for the few grams. Conclusion: Almost two hours of work and a few cents for the sealing material, and the ABS goes again. that makes more often, certainly does not take more than an hour. So companies like this have a very interesting margin … well, market economy just, besides, one has to give as a commercial provider warranty, insofar as I am far from criticizing.