Category: Honda Forum

  • my new xc 90

    Hello! I’ve been reading here for a while, really nice community! I’m 46 years old, self-employed master craftsman and happy family fatter. First the joyful news: This morning I made my way with my wife to the friendly and made the purchase (m) of a Volvo XC 90 summum perfect. I’m happy like a little child To the equipment… – Summum D5 5-seater automatic gearbox Geartronic – parking aid back – speed-dependent power steering – LM rims Camulus 235/60 R18 – Metallic coating Sapphire black – Anthracite/Chestnut Brown – RTI- Navi – AHK – Suitcase shell mat – Rear view camera I think I’ve fulfilled my dream before 2. What kind of profession do you practice? Do you have problems with rehearsing? (The Dickelch is not exactly the smallest How are you satisfied overall? Best regards Frank

  • Change the back of the cathedral warehouse.

    Hello! At my Volvo 850 station wagon there’s a domed warehouse in the back. I’ve been looking for a lot of topics for a long time now, but unfortunately it’s never written exactly how the domed warehouse is connected to the body. Can someone please explain this to me? Or post an explosion drawing? I’ve read that you don’t even have to remove the damper in the back, but with a light load you can tension the spring. Is there a trick? Or should you do it with the spring tensioner. I’d like to try it myself, because it shouldn’t be very difficult at the back. I’m asking for an exact instruction. Should I change both domlags immediately? or wait until the 2nd is defective. Thank you already! Greeting Walter

  • Volvo V50 2.0 D BJ 2006 – Smell of soot inside and outside after longer rides

    Moin moin, with 133k km my V50 is probably just in a “difficult” time. After defective wheel bearing the following can be observed now 2k km later: If I drive with the vehicle “longer” (20km up) routes, then a diesel / smoke odour in the interior is very easy to perceive when standing at the traffic light (not during the ride!). I have already googled and is mentioned again and again the seal to the vents under the bonnet. I would exclude this first, since it a) looks good and b) the smell can still be perceived outside the vehicle (if you stand 1m away from the engine). So if the air around the engine stinks anyway, then the best seal can’t save anything anymore. Now only the question is what I can look at? Otherwise it continues to be great: no power loss, quiet engine run, no warning lights etc. Even with short distances no smell is noticeable. Thank you already for your help. Fos forget, so I like to give them after. Ahja: I am absolute layman and therefore ask for forgiveness when I ask “doof” questions.

  • Error P0171 Hole in the subduck hose vacuum pump

    Moin said yesterday I was surprised by the instrument cluster of our elk with the yellow motor light. The error P0171 (mixture on bench 1 too lean) was stored. During the ride there was no impairment. Had only a strange phenomenon two weeks ago: On the highway at approx. 100km/h in the 5th gear (automatic) times the socks pressed on the pedal: Automatic switches down, speed torments up and there was a loud suction noise to hear (similar to open air filter or r Intake noise after cold start) noticeably less power. But only two times up, without MKL and then the moose ran again normal. After research in the net, the following causes come into consideration: – LMM defective (have I removed and cleaned) – hose crankshaft ventilation to the oil trap (was changed about 2 months ago after defective already) – false air, here the rabbit is in the pepper Have been able to detect a hissing in the running engine in the range of the battery, the hoses with brake clean The hose, which goes from the vacuum pump next to the battery to the suction bridge (see picture). At first glance there was nothing to be seen, since there was still a kind of protective cover over the hose. This was removed and there was already a hole to be seen. I got it temporarily sealed with insulating tape and hope that this was the fault. After research in the net it is probably the parts number: 30736693 vacuum hose and seems to be only available as a complete part. Are there alternatives to the original part (if still available), at Skandix I didn’t find it? Thanks for information.

  • Volvo c30 D5 Aw55-50/51sn vibrate at 55 and 80kmh

    Moin I hope for your experiences…. My beloved Bolide Volvo C30 D5 with automatic transmission brings me to despair. It vibrates at about 55 and 80kmh and has slight fluctuations in speed, it feels like you are driving over cross grooves or moving a switch too subturgy. It stops as soon as you go off the gas or give more gas. It was with a drift specialist, repeats no fault in the memory. Adaption values of gears and throttles were reduced unfortunately no change. Car was then at the friendly in the workshop and there was another transmission oil flushing it was flushed with oil. Again the adaptation values were reset. Unfortunately also here no improvement of the problem. In 2019 he got already a flushing according to the Tim Eckert method. Today we determined that he did not switch back in manually although one forces it and is almost already standing. The 3rd gear is held simply. Maybe already someone has already Similar experiences and can give me a hint where we have to look. Greetings Rebecca

  • poltern front right at acceleration and unevenness

    Hello, I’m new in the Volvo world and proud owner of a V50 T5 hand switch from 12/2005. I’ve had the car for a week and the previous owner told me an occasional rumbling from the front right. Since it’s the cheapest thing, I re-engineered directly in front and rear Lemförder Koppelständen. Meanwhile, however, the polking has become worse, just this morning at -1C° occurred during acceleration, even on top level road especially in the 2nd and 3rd gears ( A workshop has examined the complete chassis and recognizes the pinning during a test drive, but not the cause, all joints are fixed. I have now read more often about defective drive shafts, which one does not look at the defect from the outside, or noticed by shaking. I have therefore ordered the right drive shaft from SKF and change the times. If one of you has another tip, to which I can give as much as possible Achja, the poltern is rhythmically with the wheel speed when accelerating, so I also exclude the motor bearings… In the stand with the steering back and forth everything is fine, so hopefully also not the cathedral bearings, to me remains slowly as idea only the drive shaft Thanks to you

  • Chassis VOLVO 850 (R)

    Hej since there are no more chassis parts for the 850R I will have to switch to alternatives The thing should be just as deep and doesn’t have to be really better from the performance than original, so no oilins or threads or so – good usable dampers/springs combination, which you can still get in a few years. What would you advise me to do there? Finally I buy 08/15 StandardSachs-damper and Eibachfeder in addition ?? Greeting

  • Engine doesn’t start anymore

    Hello, I have “restored” my engine in the last few weeks, so everything is back in. Now everything is back in, only unfortunately my car does not start. Light, turn signal, radio etc. work, if I turn the ignition key at level 3, the dipped light goes out but nothing happens, it does not clack from the starter. What I have already looked at is: – petrol pressure is there, pump works and fuel can be lit. -Zündsunken is neither at the spark plug nor directly behind the ignition coil. I changed the tip of the divider and the finger of the ignition distributor. – cabling is so far right, plugs all in it. Mass cables still look “good” – after each other I held the two thick plus cables directly to the pin on the starter but there nothing turned. -Zündschlüssele I also tried both -On the motor everything is mechanically ok, ignition times and so are also right. I have really little idea of electrics and don’t know where to start. elesen. Thanks for further ideas, actually I had to drive back to work before Monday, that was probably done.

  • Starter doesn’t want to start…

    Moin in the round, today a problem from my side: Volvo 850 T5-R EZ 09/1995 The starter turns nciht more. On strike – just like that. Before still “normal” and inconspicuously driving around with the car, shutting down and – zack – nothing works anymore… Ignition comes, all lamps in the AI, KS pump promotes, dipped light etc starts, idle control valve hums. If then you turn the SChlüssel further… …nothing turns no starter, but also the light does not get darker. kt trigger (i.e. Abblendlciht goes off, switches are unlit), but otherwise completely quiet. So ignition start switch renewed. OE Volvo – part virgin. No change. Starter removed and “brimmed” on the workbench – works. All conveyor belts checked – are impeccable. New battery installed, also nix. Multimeter fetched and started to measure: battery has full power, even under load (is a brand new VARTA) the value does not change even during the tried start process. nlasser arrives full voltage (“dickes red cable” Only on the plugged cable I have not been able to determine reasonable values. What voltage should be there during the start attempt? When it comes to current and voltage I am really a beginner, so I hope to get one or two target-oriented tips on this way. Parallel to this I look at the circuit diagrams, maybe I can still draw useful information there… Markus

  • Can you hear an ignition coil?

    Hello, my Volvo sometimes has problems with acceleration from the sliding mode. Sometimes it swallows itself. But this happens only sometimes and I have not managed to reproduce this condition safely until today. The only thing I know is that the swallower only comes when you want to accelerate either from the sliding mode or from very low speeds again. But as I said, not always. Now he should get new spark plugs. Ignition distributor, Fi When I was working in the engine room, I noticed a ticking sound. Sounds like a skipping spark. The sound source was searched for and found in the ignition coil. But you don’t see anything. Also not in the dark and not even when you let water mist pour over it. Now the real question: Can you hear the ignition coil at work or do you point to an isolation defect in the ignition coil? Unfortunately, the ignition cable is only 1 year old and clean. I’m not a barter right now, thank you for your help.