Category: Honda Forum

Hy, have for years found the 16″ (302mm) brake at the VA and with ATE (for 3 years the one with the cut) actually a good brake. Now with a little performance increase, this is still ok for the normal traffic, but if you get out on the track, several times what comes out (because you can’t look or don’t want to guess anything) it is already brought to the border. What is the next bigger one, which also makes sense, and does not have an imbalance after 3x brake or vibrates? I know there’s an original 17″ version, but I don’t think it’s much bigger? Thanks in advance for your info! V70 / 99er / Mod.00 lg Jerry

Tomorrow together! Does any of you have experience with it? Track plates at the back of the 850s? If so, to what width is it possible to do it without a sledge or even pull the fenders? Because it looks so narrow at the back of the ass… Now I want to make 20 aluminium plates per side on it, that it is at least a bit wider in the track… And because my 854 from the back has the look of the T5-R (spoiler, lamps, groin, etc.) looks like this shit, if it is so narrow there, zumi Have you ever had any experience of yours? Would all the tools in my workshop have been used to bulge, to pull the wheelhouses… So that shouldn’t fail… Thank you! LG Joe

Moin, I noticed tonight that the lighting on my automatic selector lever doesn’t work anymore. Did any of you ever do that? I’ve googled around so far and the light is probably through. Robert DIY also has a video on YouTube but for the V70, in principle the center console from the C70 goes up to the rear seats. Other instructions in English describe that you have to unscrew at the storage/coin compartment. That doesn’t make Robert somehow in the V ideo hmm. Then I found this here but somehow I don’t understand it quite: OK for any future people that might have the same question. 04 does have a light in the shifter. Easy to do. Pull up back seat. Take 2 8mm bolts out. Open center console and lift removable cover inside. take 2 8 mm bolts out. Lift and pull back console a bit (shifter must be in 1 or 2 and E brake up). On drivers side you will see a black funnel shape black plastic. At end there is a light bulb socket. P ull down. I thought a bulb listed for the car at an auto parts place and found out it didn not fit. It was longer and when you remove the bulb from the bulb capsule its hard to move back. Dealer sold me one with the capsule for $12. The capsule and bulb come out as a unit. New one just snaps in. Oh yeah remove the coin tray. Careful plastic on sides is brittle and SHARP!!! OK in done. Good luck Would be cool if someone could grab something in my arms Oh yeah, which light bulb fits over there pt in, there are also different ones. Looks kind of special and not something you could buy from Conrad

Hello dear screwdrivers, I have tried a lot and searched a lot on the Internet, but as so often no one in the worldwide network has the same problem as me. That’s why I now come to my first forum post. Now to my problem: I have a Volvo 850 144hp from 1996. My cooling water temperature rises after I start the ignition directly to operating temperature. No matter if warm or after cold start. I have already changed the temerature encoder and the thermostat, but no change. Maybe someone has an idea what it could still be. Thank you already one time in advance Tino

Hello community, I’m on the road this weekend and I’ve come across this Volvo 850 (http://suchen.mobile.de/vehicles/details.html?id=210077797). Unfortunately, the driver’s door is a bit dented, but I don’t think it’s bad. What worries me much more is the fact that it rattles very loudly in idle. My question now is whether this is a big problem and is associated with many costs or whether the costs remain manageable. I didn’t really want to invest a lot of money. , since it should be my first car 😉 Look forward to your answers Mfg ProfSkyline

Hi, everybody. I would be happy for your help again. I went on vacation today. After the first short coffee break, the engine was rumbling a bit at the first meters, but after that it was normal. Then it was over an alpine pass. At a construction site only one lane could be driven. At the start of the race the engine was rumbling at the red light and didn’t have the power to start. A two restarts went, but completely restless run and no power to start on the mountain. in half an hour, the engine started, but with a lot of gas it got better. He then escorted us up the mountain a few kilometers and then went back and we continued. At the next pass, this time in the middle of the construction site, the engine went downhill again. This time we just waited 15 minutes, tried again, gave a lot of gas and: continued. Two hours later we arrived in South Tyrol. The man from the breakdown service What do you think? Could it be the petrol pump? I haven’t changed it yet (more than 380 Tkm). Or can the relay 103 cause such symptoms? Or can it do something with the ignition? I would have had the spare gasoline pump with me. Whether it still works would be checked. I also have new relay in the car. What would you do? Thank you for all the hints already in advance! Bno supplement: 850 Kombi, 170PS, Automat, 1996

Does someone know the width of the trunk of the v60 and v70 so the width of the loading can and the narrowest place I have to transport solar panels flat and they are 113 cm wide