Category: Honda Forum

Good day dear friends! I have a very annoying phenomenon with my Volvo. It is a 1998 Volvo V70 i with the 2.5 turbodiesel engine and (if it plays a role) full leather equipment. Problem: With certain temperatures the amature board starts to crack from the front from the middle (see red marking on the pictures). It is the typical noise that arises as soon as plastic rubs on something (it definitely does not come from the air conditioning or the fans, it is the plastic above). If I press the finger on the transition between the amature board itself and the plastic rail at the end of the disc, I can reproduce the cracking. It has to occur somewhere at the “transition” between the amature board and the plastic part directly in front of the disc. Interestingly, the sound disappears as soon as I press the upper amature board with my hand. I have tried the following (nothing has done anything): next ic h simply lubricate all the parts of this upper whole cover with silicone / grease, which have contact with any mounting fixtures and, if necessary, process everything with sillikon spray before I reinstall the upper cover. Maybe someone else has any further tips, or the problem already solved itself?

Moinsen, my 850 T5 is starting to make me feel at ease when it’s cold and I start it, then it starts clean and goes straight back out. After that it gets really weird, because it spins like it has NULL compression until after a while the first “Poff Poff Poff” come out of the exhaust. Then it starts on 2, 3 or on good days 4 cylinders and shakes like stupid. If I wait a moment the 5th cylinder comes in. Gas is the first 5 minutes It’s not in it, it goes out dull. The curious thing is, as soon as it’s warm it runs perfectly. The idle is nailed like, it takes gas and drives in order. There are no clouds coming out of the exhaust, neither blue, black nor white. I am now something at the end of my Latin, since I have already tried a lot: – control times are set to 100% with gauges – petrol pump is replaced – petrol filter is new (MAN) – petrol pump relay is replaced – intake manifold seal is new (OE Volvo) – ignition finger and cap new (Bosch) – ignition coil and cable from mid-2014 (Bosch and OE Volvo) – Lambda probe from mid-2014 (Bosch) – LMM from mid-2014 (Bosch) – EVAP check valve from mid-2014 (OE Volvo) – oil trap including all hoses new (OE Volvo) – candles are new (OE Volvo Turbo) – LiMa from mid-2014 (OE Volvo) – petrol pressure regulator new (Bosch) All vacuum hoses replaced by Samco, only in case that is required The compression is on all cylinders in the was I have already removed the coolant temperature sensor in the hope that the wrong values will be delivered and the MSG will then get an average value, but no change has been made except for the expected continuous running of the fan. MSG has not filed any errors. So if one of you has a well-founded idea, a reasonable suspicion or the possibility to read live data in the Hamburg area and direct I’m very grateful to interpret ig for further suggestions or assistance!!! But boys and girls, don’t be wildly rumbled Many greetings Johnny

Hello to the Volvo forum, as I will soon retire and not drive much more, I would like to buy a “classic” Volvo (currently Volvo V70 III D5 GT). Engine: R5 10V, R5 20V or RV 20V T (140/144/170/193PS). With manual transmission. Is the question now one of the last 850s or prefer the V70 I? From today’s point of view the desired model is already at least 14 years old, therefore my question for better durability, maintenance costs (repair). Are there any technically remarkable differences, also in terms of exhaust gas behaviour? Rejoice me about your answers Beautiful greetings from the Ranger

So…I’ve been watching it for a long time now and I’m a bit annoyed by it…It’s already quite loud! The faster I drive, the faster the “yelling” , which I feel as logical (…it actually sounds like there’s a bird stuck in it…) And it seems to me somehow irregular…is hard to describe… I press the brake is the squeaking away. As soon as I turn slightly to the left, it’s also gone…Where should I look for the first time, or start? A woman also says it’s coming from the front right!

Hello together…. Was just at the TÜV and have clarified the tire question. In fact I can not drive this tire size (106kw!!). It is definitely not allowed with the papers, which can be found here and in the net. Would like to apologize here at T5-Power, you had definitely been right about my elch. I just had a single acceptance and can now legally drive this size. The examiner told me that it was possible to But other elks can look quite different again. He said that with the more motorized elks the size would be fine. He suspects that Volvo simply forgot that at the time for the 106kw. Anyway, I can now legally drive the size and do not need to buy new tires. costs about 140€, but still better than a set 205/50 R16 for about 400€. So let your elks check if you also drive this size.

Hello together! My good 850 doesn’t seem to be able to run well on all pushes. History: Since the winter was approaching, I decided to get the good Goodyear UG7+ (known from my experience in the tyre test). During the assembly I already noticed that two of the tyres had a slight high blow. -No matter, then they come to the rear axle. But the joy of the new snowbiters did not last long, because even though I also directly exchange the track rods n and the axle geometry had to be remeasured and adjusted in the course, my car moved to LINKS from now on! As I first had the suspicion that ATU had built up something there during the measurement. In the second measurement, which I looked directly at, it came out then that the front left measuring head of the other station was probably not quite fit anymore. -Light deviation. Newly adjusted (and this really aurat, one has to point out praisefully!), the master came therefore and did not turn a round. He came back for a long time and told us that unfortunately the car was still moving to the left. Now the two front tyres were changed and see here: Now the car suddenly pulled to the right. I thanked and drove home. In order to keep excluding a mistake, I changed the tyres accordingly again, so the HA to the VA. Again the car pulled violently to the left, in addition there was a noticeable imbalance, which I brought back to the height of the HA tires. yesterday I took the two front tyres against each other and now ride with them against their direction of running. -The result as with the ATU-master: The car now pulls to the right! And the effect strengthens when giving gas. After the chassis is now without lack, what measurement protocol and TÜV test have proven (I stood next to it every time and watched – there really everything ran thoroughly and clean off), I contacted the tyre dealer and he currently takes care of a R eclamation at Goodyear. Just ask the question in the room: Have you generally had similar experiences that the Volvo simply can’t handle certain tires? In my case it’s definitely the tires… Would I really be interested in. Greeting Kamilli