Category: Honda Forum

Hello everybody, I have a lot of oil loss over night. In the pictures I have marked out which area it soups out. Does anyone have a tip where this could come from? Is a Volvo v70 Bj 99 gasoline, 2.5l 144 ps Thanks already and greetings. Steffen

Hello, this morning my moose has distributed the good stuff on the road! So luckily only a part, there is a leak below the footroom passenger side. I still do not have the opportunity to look right under! Does someone have a photo of the area maturable? There must be the corner where the pipes go up towards the motor. It would be interesting for me to know on there Gum lines start the ev. simply died of age weakness or whether it is rather worse is it! If it’s rubber lantern what measure do they have? I have the 2 liters engine? Then I could replace it so that the rep. goes faster. For help I am grateful. Greeting and nice weekend Christian

Moin, I have quite a curious problem. And although the window lifter switch passenger only opens the window but no longer closes it. On the driver side however, I can open it and close it. But when the window opens, the lighting of the window lifter switch (passenger side) goes out. However, if I lower the window on the passenger side on the driver side and press switches on the passenger side also down, the window stops. Only w If I let go of the switch on the passenger side, the window goes further down. Does anyone have an idea what this could be the ECU maybe? I don’t think it’s a mass error but I can’t rule it out now 100%. I thank you already in advance for your assistance.

Hello in the round, I have the following problem with my petrol engine: it runs normally in idle mode. As soon as it is under train, it only takes on weak gas. WITHOUT rucksacks or detonators. Meanwhile, it hardly drives and almost goes out (except in P-position). Now it has been standing in the workshop for a month. The car master told me today that the moose in “S” mode is almost normal. I don’t see any more. Maybe an error in the automatic transmission. It does not light up a indicator light. it has been renewed in recent years: knock sensors have been changed last week cam-welve sensor has been changed Termostat has been changed spark plugs and cables have been changed Distribution box has been changed Petrol pump has been changed Do you have advice for me? Thank you in advance! Micha

(I ask so stupidly because I was already stranded with 2 cars (not Volvo, but similar old boxes) because of sudden and unexpected mechanical ignition switch total failure without notice, and from now on I went to nothing more, except short-circuit.) These following two V70 ignition locks work (still?) without any problems, nevertheless they are somehow “self-like”: Case 1: With a V70 (MJ 97) the rests are no longer noticeable at levels I and II, one can notice t when the steps are reached, but the key can also be rotated in any position “between the steps”. For example, when driving, you can turn the key steplessly mmwise back until the engine and headlight are still on, but the speedometer and km counter are already off, and the key remains in each position by itself (but is quite lightly completed) Case 2: The other V70 (mj 2000) does not have the effect, since the key jumps clearly from the steps as usual. But: This lock in the 2000s has a completely different “phenomenon”: Level I remains on when switching off until the key is turned to “zero” until the stop is completely turned to “zero” (deletion position). Shortly before zero, level I is still switched on, as if the key were in “I” rest. (As expected, everything should be off as soon as you turn back even a little bit away from the “I” rest …or?) If ma n does not pull off the key, it happens so easily that the level I remains unconsciously switched on, and the battery slowly drains. If the radio is running or the blower is manually turned on, then of course you immediately notice that the radio or blower continues to run after turning off the ignition. But if the radio has already been switched off manually and the blower slide is on “AUT”, then the only hidden “note” is the small LEDs on the Klim abedienpart, which are really easy to overlook, especially on a bright day. Are you aware of these two phenomena and even point to an early ignition switch failure? Or is there no reason to worry?Thanks for reviews!

Hy, well, I’m not completely unnecessarily, but I’m grateful for every “sach & expert tip” right now, and just pretend to be completely stupid…. I have a V70 1 year 11/99 / Mod.00 2.4T 193PS 2WD Autom. Has BSR 3 inside. In addition, he got a replacement engine about 4 years ago, and 2 weeks before its exchange, a new Turbo and Lambdasonden ect. Everything went well until last October I hear at the TÜV, the car is top, only the exhaust values do not fit at all, everything deep in the red n = shock, which I was sure, that all fits, ran well, did no mucking and fuel consumption even less than with the original soft goods. Now the at the TÜV also had the additionally on ODB2 had and said, the Lambda probes work well, and show no error. Also I had there still no error from the MKL. I think before the engine swap, I had the old Lambda probes + old original KAT inside and when my wife drove with the car, almost every time d lit up the MKL, because the rear Lambdasonde (which drove too timidly and KAT already 280tkm on it) reported. Therefore the change from BSR Stage1 to 3, because there is the whole exhaust system together with KAT there ect. During the conversion the Lambdasonden took over and drove now 2.5 years like that. The at the TÜV said the KAT (400 Zeller) is through…. I talked to BSR, they send me a new one on Kulanz 26 months (thank you again) . This was now installed at a company (same time with decent motorsportsche) llen + the transitions that are never 100% close to a stainless steel, hidden . now absolutely dense ). Funny way I was still in the red area during the measurement, whether the original soft goods or the Stage3 had on it (with original soft goods the red area went down a bit, but also not much ). Now in the last weeks 3x the MKL light up (had I posted e here FK P1132 ). The master there looked and saw that it on the right side at the suction bridge did not light up . (Last week he got 5 new original candles + new Bosch ignition coils) Master calls me, says now it is a bit better, but still heavy in the red *kotz* He thinks the new KAT is to blame. I think the old KAT + the new KAT in the red, it can not be the KAT. The candles were white at the exchange (magic), but that means nothing, because a real candle picture you get actually only if you get the on the I think it’s very funny, that the heavy in the red area when measuring the exhaust gas, but the rear lambda probes didn’t report anything!?!? She already reported when my wife was driving….and now nothing (is already funny?). The master said the probes didn’t mean anything, he measured the resistance, everything was fine. I think also , that the fault codes to the Lambda probe (P1132) which I got 3x had to do with the false air intake at the intake bridge…, since now no Fehelr ect. anymore. So, red area in the exhaust gas measurement, means for me “too fat”. What is everything, with my motor B5244T responsible for the adjustment of the fuel quantity, i.e. which probes does he have ? Lambda probes, outside temp. feelers, and what I once heard years ago, that he also has an octane knife, depending on whether I refuel 95s or 98s, st He turns around (but I just heard it as I said). Throttle flap is good and OK, don’t twitch, not even anything. LMM I thought at the beginning, but he doesn’t run in any emergency pogram and also shows no mistake about it (though I took him out and cleaned him up. wasn’t dirty or anything). What else can there be that the one so in the red measuring range blows out ??? And at the same time “no” error message brings ??? I thought already I swap on suspected the first BOSCH Lambdasonde (rule probe), however, is no cheap attempt….and if the TÜV and the master in the workshop think the probes are ok, even such a thing !? Do you have an idea ? Thanks in advance!

Hello, I and the Volvo have landed here after all. Unfortunately, the little one always annoys me lately. w doesn’t know what he has. I always treated him well. Teenagers stop. 850er Kombi First registration 08/96. Currently 312000 counted kilometers. I bought him plenty of three years ago and bought him a Prins gas system. I already emptied him 50000 km from m cross. I solved the first failure already with your help. The odometer had no desire at almost 300000 more. I changed the little toothwheel. Runs. I didn’t record nearly 10000 km. I can’t. In the short answer thread I already described the ignition plate error. Here I am still at the spare parts procurement and consider whether a used ignition plate, 20years old, is the right choice. Probably not. My trunk roller is over. I can’t use the available repair kit. Ergo I also need replacement. Had found something already, but the call ie price of coarse 80€ for 21 years old replacement, seems too happy to me. i’m still looking around a bit. Currently the ZV doesn’t like to let me into the trunk anymore. i’m happy about a solution on your part. a combo without a trunk is as pointless as the BVB without a knock.

Moin! I have already used the search function and have already received a small impression, but I would still be happy about further experiences with the Heico / Sachs Performance suspension. Originally the suspension consists of tighter Sachs gas pressure dampers and Sachs 35mm lowering springs. According to some contributions there was the Heico suspension also with Eibach springs. This variant is uninteresting for me. I recently skipped the complete Heico Performance suspension This is why I am particularly interested in the Sachs springs. How are they in terms of comfort? Rather a little harder or a little softer than e.g. Eibach, H&R, etc.? Currently I drive Koni yellow with H&R springs, but this combination is too uncomfortable for me. Therefore I think about combining the Sachs springs with Bilstein B4. What about it? It is important for me to have maximum comfort with a discreet lowering. I don’t care about sportiness or even race track suitability. The series suspension is not an option for me and the advantages of a KW coilover suspension do not open up to me as a country road and city center driver. Does any of you currently still drive the Sachs springs?

Hello! I’ve already read a few threads about WT, as I always had the feeling in the first moments of heating the interior that it would smell like cooling water. I can’t really detect a water loss but it can be marginal. I’m not a frequent driver now. The carpet in the driver’s footroom is damp and greasy at one point. Since I always had to deal with the various other defects on my Volvo, I have this problem a little lagged. Now I have dismantled the cladding and folded the carpet back. It is a small running track to see which starts directly where the two water pipes lead into the WT. There is this black connection to the WT, which seems to be clamped. Since I have read several times of loose screws on the pipe connection clamps, I simply pulled the one half accessible Torx (T20) screw a bit. about 1 drop per 10 seconds. I then loosened the screw a bit again (original state) and it immediately stopped dripping again. Now I drove 30km from my hall home and looked again: it doesn’t drip. Question: Can you say exactly what will be defective now? O-ring at the flange pipe WT or rather WT itself over? Should I urgently clamp a longer journey (Berlin-Hannover) over Christmas or is this probably before r semi-wild? Is a scenario conceivable in which at one stroke a connection or the WT itself become extremely leaking and I stand on the highway because 7 liters of cooling water suddenly stand in the footroom? Or is that absolutely impossible? Greeting!

I drive VA/HA 225/40 18 8×18 ET45 rims on my C70 but the rims are still very deep inside when I look from the side on my fender that looks really stupid. I currently only have behind which 30s 15 per side but there is still 1 cm of air to the edge. I don’t want to fully excite it but it should have a healthy beautiful look. Who has experiences and recommendations and how to look t it with the registration at the TÜV? thank you.