Category: Honda Forum

  • TDI crankshaft bearing screws torn off

    Had run a 850 TDI 96er a week ago with torn off screws at the main bearing docks on stage ! ~350,000km, rougher / unround motor run for a long time. For troubleshooting was pretty much everything checked / changed what was possible. (pump, all engine bearings, vacuum hoses, injection nozzles incl. needle lifter etc.) At the last start the engine suddenly ran extremely rough, vibrating from 2000 rpm very strongly. At the stand suddenly a loud bang and strong oil loss. Mo The oil tank had a big hole and a screw of the main bearing bulge was on the asphalt. After dismantling the oil tank (SWINE WORK) the damage was nice to see. On the fourth bearing bulge a screw was torn off, on the fifth one one was torn off, the second one probably turned out. Lt. Information of a friend AUDI mechanic this is known by the AEL motors. Supposedly there are changed screws (higher strength) at AUDI. After my forums the damage occurs. The oil tank is not as deep as in the rest of the area. But I can’t imagine that this has something to do with it.

  • v70-1(L): Experience with the official automatic transmission rinsing method (AW50-42)

    Servus all over, I would like to renew my automatic transmission oil after 230,000 km, contrary to Mr. Volvo’s other statements (problems don’t exist…). What happened before, you don’t know. With the method, how it comes out of the Volvo book (downloaded here somewhere in this forum), which is essentially in line with the Haynes book, I come only a few liters, much less than here some indicate. In principle, what goes out, also has to go in again. How does this come about? Is this the case? I read everything from 12 to 15 l. I ask because the oil is not just a gift and is certainly too bad to stand around. It probably won’t get better over the years. By way of the official method I would have added a cleaner before the rinse. The method itself is trivial (two out of five screw keys at Haynes ) I plan the Fuchs ATF 5000 SL to use (Dexron IIe), despite the fact how many claim that subsequent Dexron classifications are backward compatible. As I read at the star dock gate (but about other oils) a lot is claimed… The Dexron IIe is the official oil. In another place here the fox oil was attested best quality. I wonder if a flushing by TE is as cheap as some indicate what it fills for an oil quality. Thank you for your answers. -helmut

  • New family car is coming up!

    We need a new family carriage. Our Ford Windstar is now almost 12 years old (without major infirmities!!!) and we are of course a bit spoiled by the space available. Our family is however two split. The dad would like to have a Q7 – due to its appearance and of course AUDI (but probably not included because of €) and the mom is now on the track to the XC90 (Only used ones). Is the XC 90 really as comfortable as it looks at first glance? The Q7 seems to me to be a bit more economical from the space offer. Would I look forward to answers. Also what we should pay attention to when buying.

  • man I embarrassed myself !!!

    The other day, I was sitting in the back of our bloke and there I was disturbed by an extreme clapping from the back of the belt winding. so I called the friendly one and made an appointment to unscutter. yesterday the friendly mechanic put in the back and turned a test round. I never heard that from the back. shortly after that comes a hand from the back and see, the one stone in the rearmost drink holder got out. ooooh how embarrassing !!!!!! now I had the assembled team 4, 11 and 13 years to compete and what should I tell you, nobody was it.

  • UIUII – Civic Type R of 07

    Hi, was just on an open track behind a Civic Type R. The new, look taste question, but the engine apparently not. I have since LANGEM once again turned down at 140 to stay at it… Hat off! Well from 200 I have to go a little bit of the gas to not drive too close, then the power is missing. BUT: Respect! I would be interested in a direct comparison to the C30 T5! tom

  • Volvo c30. Cracking after covering and disc change back rarely and only with floor waves.

    Hi guys, wanted to spare you, but my learned screwdriver colleagues are already sleeping here. Go around a Volvo c30 1.0 125ps from 2007. Got new documents and discs in the back. (Yes, I confess I did this because I have experience and a learned mechanic friend is always there) Now I noticed that only back right after cracking rustling occurs. But not always, and only with floor waves. Of course I researched and found out that manc I have to say it’s NK pads, where the manufacturer guarantees 3 years of fit and it only happens to the right. Then I found a thread where someone solved the problem by replacing the brake springs outside because the too much game ergo was sucked out. Now my question before I get new brake springs, even if that’s only penny parts costs. Or it’s still my question before I get new brake springs, even if that’s only penny parts costs. which is more expensive. I thought to test the brake so to speak. I took a long screwdriver (flat). I used a lever from the steel rim a hole and tried with the screwdriver to push the brake force (brake caliper) away from the brake disc. But naturally without violence and light. If I did this on the left does nothing. If I did this on the right, one heard a slight cracking. Could the spring be to blame? After all, the first ones are still the first ones. in and see year of construction. Thank you in advance.

  • Power loss in 3 stages after turbocharger renewal 1.6D 2007 220tkm.

    Hello Forum I don’t know any more. After the turbocharger gave very unhealthy sounding whistle sounds of itself which went along with a power loss the diagnosis was a new turbo must come from. After 220tkm I thought that could be. At an online parts dealer I ordered the good piece including oil and filter. After the installation in my garage I was quite disappointed. Although no noise but also no power. Then I decided a larger test drive to ma In the workshop no error could be found. After several discussions and opinions of colleagues I renewed the HFM, changed the AGR valve, the EPW for the turbocharger control and the clutch pedal switch. As you already guessed it still does not do right. Unfortunately no error is set. I even installed a vacuum box to see what the turbocharger control does. Looks quite passable from wa I have at the moment 3 driving conditions that do not change predictably. After switching a new condition or the old one.The 3 states 1. Engine does not build up a charging pressure although control and speed ok. 2. Charge pressure builds up slowly depending on the speed. 3. Charge pressure is immediately there and everything is good I don’t know any more. The workshop says that the new turbocharger could have a damage. If he does do it right now and again. g does he have to be OK? Is my opinion, right? In the meantime, around 600 km were mostly driven in condition 2. I hope you can help me. Thank you very much. Grexs

  • Question about the navigation interface

    Hello guys, I get to the point quickly. I’ve been driving a Volvo c30 bj2012 and I find the navigation interface somewhat outdated with the 100 small arrows that show you the direction! Is there a way to get a “usual” newer surface through an update or ner software change? So that the direction as with the newer volvo models is shown simply by a different color thick line? Thanks in advance for the answers! MfG.

  • t5 (or 2.5t) to 2.5ft

    it’s time – the engine damage is there. to calm down the fatigue – the damage is not due to gas system. at this point in time I only know that the engine seems to have been driven a few 100km (almost) without cool liquid, overheated and now, when it is warm, rusts from the area of the valve cover seal, probably pulls air into the cooling system and loses water somewhere without steaming out of the exhaust. anyway, the engine has to be opened and repaired. The “cylinder head set” also includes the valves. but what else do you need – for example, is the suction bridge compatible? and yes, I know – in order to find out the prices, it is best to contact volvo. problem – the history takes place on the XXX of the world. no volvocars far and wide (also not in the neighboring countries) and the language barrier makes (trotz google translate) difficult. I thought about it, before you blow up a pile of coal by giving your “vin number” on the phone for hours, ask here – maybe someone can roughly cost something to the ones that should be planned for the “parts”. maybe someone has mercy. thank you in advance.

  • Volvos hurt in their honor?

    But what if these moose really show feelings? The reason for my assumption is that I read more and more of Volvos, who have far over 100,000km behind them and continue to do their job without any problems. Problems are always read only by the “heretics”, who want to repel their cars after a few months and kilometers again!?!? Do the “Elche” feel in their honor ve Do I give my “elch” too little attention? Do I ask him too little? Does he realize that he will have to leave me soon? Greetings Martin