MOTOR-TALK

Category: Honda Forum

  • Preheating V70 defective??

    Hello together, 2 years ago Venlo let me unlock the heater.. always worked perfectly.. last week was my car ruz inspection..today I wanted to program the heater for the first time again..the menus behave quite normal..but the direct circuit still works the timer circuit!! If I remember correctly after programming and closing the car permanently the yellow triangle in the cockpit, right?? With me it glows up to z u Time when I switch off with key. Does anyone have advice for me?? or can the heater have been deactivated during the last inspection?? I am grateful for every tip Friendly greetings Harald

  • Volvo C30 1.6D – “reduced engine power” – air intake hose / LMM?

    During my last inspection in October, Volvo found that there was a hair crack in the fresh air hose / air intake hose of my Volvo C30. Since I had no problems with the vehicle so far, I did not have an exchange (the hose alone should cost 276.26 euros). The service staff also told me that I could go on without further trouble and that the BC would report at some point if an exchange was really necessary. Today (-5) I then had the phenomenon that during the acceleration (city traffic approx. 40 km/h) the BC reported with the message “decreased engine power”. After I had stopped briefly and switched off and switched off the ignition, the error message went away and I was able to continue normally. By Google I then came across an engine talk thread, where someone complains about a reduced engine power, but in which no corresponding error message in the display gets Here it was commented, among other things, that it could be the air mass meter (which is in / on the said hose) because there is no error message in the BC in case of such a defect. Therefore, I am somewhat unsure whether my problem is really due to the hair crack detected by Volvo. What do you think? Of course, I could just have the tube replaced for good luck now. Then there would be my second question … Without air mass meter there would be the smart c in the accessories for 99 Euro (Skandix), with air mass meter this is about 200 Euro (Wikinger Parts). Would also the favorable variant be enough here or should one exchange the LMM immediately? Vehicle: Volvo C30 Drive BJ 06/2010 (Facelift) about 102,000 km part number hose: 31293729 I would like to thank you already in advance for your answers

  • Guardian angels had…….

    Hi guys, yesterday we had a guardian angel !!!!!! At my Volvo V50 I got on front and rear track widening from Eibach, with which I was so pleased so far. Until yesterday…… 500m after we were off the fast track, with slow drive in front right 3 and front left 1 wheel bolt completely broke away. The car was then uncarable and I had to be towed. If this had happened on the fast way, I probably could not have written here any more; at least not today LG Manfred

  • OBD diagnosis, cleaning LMM, real candles. V70 2.4 T Built 98

    Moin, I’m sorry, I have to bother you again. If links to Amazon,Ebay etc. are forbidden please delete mail. Thanks. 1. This reader:https://www.amazon.de/…/ref=ox_sfl_sfl_title_1?… should only be suitable for petrolmen from year 2001. I found this table:https://www.blafusel.de/obd/obd2_scanned.php?order=success#1388 According to this, it would also work with a 2.4 T Bj. 97. Does someone know something exact ? 2. Cleaning LMM: I found this Vid at YT:http s://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ODYAX4qLSa0 Is this recommended ? Have read that the wires are very sensitive !? 3. Are these candles ok ?https://www.motointegrator.de/…/…ze-super-plus-bosch-0-242-235-749 If no, is there an inexpensive alternative ? Thank you !!! VG Christian

  • Spoiled disks – evaporator?

    With my 8s the windows have been fogging very extreme for a few weeks. The windows can hardly be freed during the ride. I exclude heat exchangers, because this is only 3 years old and I have no cooling water loss. Water should not penetrate, that the footrooms are dry. The warm air from the heating is also extremely humid, almost like sauna. Therefore my assumption that the flow is dense and the water in the heating section collects. How is there at the single-use How can I check if it’s clogged? Not that I’m running all the soup in the car. Where’s the procedure coming out of the car? Greetings Holger

  • Repair accident damage (front)

    Since it would blow up the scope of SEARCH, I open my own thread for it. My moose has a huge bump ahead, as I already wrote. The report is now there, result as foreseeable: economic total damage, repair costs including VAT would be almost 7,000 euros. That is unnecessarily, but not to change. Fortunately, the gas plant has increased the replacement value so far that the payment is at least more than a pocket money. If it comes to it. Because 14 days n In the event of an accident, there is still no damage report from the opponent, so the guilt question is unsolved. So I still have to take into account that the accident is denied and the opposing insurance company refuses to pay. Then a possible trial risk would come to me and if there is a lot of costs. I will have the moose repaired, it will remain and it will have to go off as soon as possible. But I have to deal with a minimum of costs, so much ic h my workshop would otherwise have enjoyed a nice job on insurance terms. Certain parts have to be new (cooler, climate cooler e.g.), but most of them can be used just as well. And here I ask for your suggestions or offers. Here is the list from the report. The body parts do not necessarily have to be black, as my free workshop is also painted.

  • Brake pedal “knärzt” and vibrates..

    Good morning, your moose.. My black guy is again teasing.. This morning while driving off (turning) my brake pedal started to creak when it’s easy to act.. Sounds like you didn’t get the gear properly when switching.. So to speak a “beautiful greeting from the gearbox” sound.. Just not quite as loud.. There are also clearly vibrations in the brake pedal, synchronous to the noise.. With stronger braking it’s not.. What can that be..? Does anyone know that..? a thank you and happy Easter days.. Stephan

  • Checking/Thousands Blower Engine Heating Blower

    Hello, our moose (Volvo 850 Kombi, 2.5TDi FWD, AW42 Automatik, Modell 1997, EZ 08.1996 mit Klimaautomatic) only warms with wind, the blower no longer bustes. From Flal to case something fresh… Does anyone have a guide on how to expand and/or test the blower? Thank you!

  • Ventilation performance increases when giving gas??

    Hello everyone, I’ve been having a “problem” on my V50 for a few days with which I don’t know anything at all about it. Couldn’t find anything similar here with the keyword search, so I’m trying my luck with a new post. The vehicle: Volvo V50 2.0D built in 2006 with now 278,000 km. The problem: If I give strong gas then the ventilation performance increases until I give back less gas, then the ventilation performance goes back to the Normal value. This has been the case for a few days and is starting to get annoying. I recalibrated the LIN actuators of the ventilation via VIDA a few weeks ago, because I had the feeling that the valve to the circulating air no longer drives clean / reliable. Errors are in the memory (read out by VIDA) but in my opinion have nothing to do with this. For the sake of completeness, this is nevertheless on: 1. ECM-0380 Pre-glare relay defective. I know that of cylinder 3 the glow plug defe I assume that this is a follow-up error. The relay itself works perfectly and has also been exchanged test times. 2. PCM errors to lost communication etc… It is also completely clear, since I have pulled the fuse of the auxiliary heating. Instead of preheating my moose he plays “bat-mobile” and hides in a white dense cloud… There is probably the incandescent pin glued and therefore no ignition is done. Must be approached once we rden (before the winter) but shouldn’t play a role here either? I’m really curious what you can advise me 🙂 Greetings!

  • Return sensor at V50 back again?

    Hi, everybody. Unfortunately, I had a little accident at the car parking on the weekend. I came to another parking car despite parking sensors. They reacted strangely only when I was already on the car. Well, no matter… No one did what happened, my bumper only has a few scratches, but a parking sensor is pressed in. That is, it is no longer in the intended bore. I can still reach it, however, due to the “lack of space” logically but If someone has an idea how to get it back in position without driving into the workshop, where the whole bumper is dismantled? I already have an idea, since I don’t know how much space behind the bumper is, I can’t tell if it works. Maybe one of you can. I imagine that I’m going to drive one side on the curb and then put the jack on the back and curl up all the way up. Then enough plate should not be fixed again (from the outside). I can grab under the bumper and push the sensor back into the hole from the inside. Can this work, or is there so little space that I can’t get there with my hand? Unless that works: Does anyone have another idea how to get the sensor – which, in my opinion, still works – back to its original position without having the bumper dismantled? Thank you very much for your help! PS.: The white track I can’t see any more, so I can live with the scratches for the time being.