Category: Honda Forum

Halllo all on the other hand, I have searched extensively in my Vida Edition for the D4204T5 but could not find anything on the subject of suit order of camshafts during installation. So either there is really nothing there or my Vida is incomplete… Does anyone know more? Otherwise I would have simply worked crosswise and piece by piece from outside to inside and when installing from inside to outside… Thank you in advance, Lg, Michael

Hello dear Volvo Community, I have a strong poltern at my S60CC D4 AWD on the rear axle. Actually, since I bought the car with 30tkm about a year ago. The sound can be heard sometimes on the right and sometimes on the left side. Mostly I notice it in residential areas or in urban traffic. At high speeds on the country road it is almost impossible to determine. It has already been exchanged – shock absorbers on the rear side on both sides – dome bearings on both sides – Exhaust rubbers – coupling rods – brake calipers – brake pads at the rear unfortunately without success. I made a video in which I drive over a patched roadside. Here this is particularly clear.https://youtube.com/shorts/vitt310nivA However, this can also be reproduced in everyday life, partly it occurs with gulli lids and partly even with a coarse bitumen strip. Depending on the distance, however, this is sometimes not good to reproduce. I’m beginning to despair. Maybe someone here knows the problem of an S60/V60/XC70/XC60…

Hi Together From a reliable source, I know that the installation of the original DAB and subwoofer in my V70 III can be done without factory options. Now I want to clean all of this, i.e. to the extent possible exactly to the factory installation. I know the positions of the devices and also their protection. (Sub 25A and DAB 5A in the rear fuse box) That brings me to the first question. Does anyone know which cross section of Volvo is installed for the SUB? Probably 4mm2, I would have now 2x 2,5mm2 v The second question would be where can I get this Volvo plug? (See pictures) Twice power and once Fakra. But the Fakra is not the standard dual port connector. Greetings and thanks Christoph

Hello to the round, I have the following problem with my V60: It has now run 117,000 km and consumes about 1 L to 1000 km. It has already consumed some oil when I bought it as an annual car with 20,000 km, but since I crossed the 100,000 km threshold, the oil consumption has increased strongly. I was already at a Volvo dealer. That meant 1 L to 1000 km is still within the frame and by the way, you can not do anything anyway, because you can separate the whole engine apart Then I was at another Volvo dealer, who looked at the engine a little bit more closely and then changed the “fresh air intake hose filter turbocharger”, replaced the “VD seal” and changed the “sealing valve cover”. So it is on the bill. It all cost 800,- €. Then I could drive at least 2,500 km until he wanted to have 0.5 l of oil again. But now he wanted to go after another 500 km have the next 0.5 l of oil. So it didn’t do anything. So what now? Selling a car is bad, because you probably have to specify the oil consumption (otherwise fraudulent deception) and thus only get very little for the car. Continue driving and always continue to tilt oil? Or then threatens an engine damage? Or continue to exaggerate cause research?

Good day, I am about to have the annual inspection and maintenance, and the spark plugs will also be replaced. Currently, the Beru Ultra Titan UPT14P are installed, which will then be replaced by the original Volvo. My gas retrofitter said, and I have already read this several times here in the forum that the Volvo candles should also be the best for gas operation (CNG). My car has in the upper load range partly dropouts while accelerating, and now by changing the spark plug However, there are different opinions that you should also reduce the electrode distance from 0,8 to 0,7mm/0,65mm during gas operation in order to relieve the ignition coils in particular. I personally would prefer to leave the fingers of sensor gauge and co. Are there experiences of the LPG and CNG drivers? Did you just take the standard candles unchanged or still change the distances? If yes, this has somehow been noticeable g My ignition coils have been holding for so long now, so hardly do you think that the gas operation will let them live off much earlier. But if the lower distance allows a better ignition spark, then it would be worth considering… Thank you VG

Dear Forengemeinde, the search on this topic was rather nothing. So I would like to inform you in this article about an original LED solution for the registration plate. These are the luminaires, which were used with the XC60 I in its last model year. These inserts fit the V70 III and XC 70 II (as well as all others with the luminaire shape). Plug&Play replaceable, discreet light, no error message and (basicly) legal. At skandix currently costs an approx. 24 Eur o, with Volvo directly 16,16 Euro incl. VAT and was available within 24 hours. Details in the pictures. Maybe yes for the one or the other interesting.

Hello all, with my XC60 this wreath of a rim lock (Original Volvo) is “doll” turned and does not open any more. About the search function I found no suitable thread here, so I open a new post. Long speech, crooked sense. I (and the workshop) do not get the wheel screw open any more. The workshop wants to weld now something on the screw, but this would make the rim very probably “black” by the heat. My idea would be to stick the adapter for the wheel screw with Loctite and try it like this… Do you think that could work? Or does anyone here have a different idea?