In my C70 I year 2002 I made an oil change of the automatic transmission. It switched off roughly when reversing and down. But all gears went in perfectly. Transmission is a 55-50 SN. This is how I went: 3 liters over drain screw drained 2 liters filled return run off from the oil cooler – motor tapped on and 1.5 liters off – 1.5 liters refilled the whole 3 x Then 2.5 liters filled up. This should be the previous amount back in. Transmission now switches butter soft, but unfortunately only up to the 2nd gear. When switching to the 3rd gear -> no force limit. Then I replenished about 600ML. Was then a little better, but with too much gas again idle. Then again 400 ML refilled. So it got worse again. So again 500ML drained. No improvement. I’m baffled. Does anyone have a solution?
Category: Honda Forum
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Water in the area driver side floor
Hello, I have been driving the same 850 for almost 17 years now and have now arrived at a little more than 600,000km. Except for usual repairs everything is ok. However, for years now I have had water / liquid in the footroom of the driver’s side. I simply can’t find a solution where this comes from. The following has already been done. – The wider roof rail installed and extra sealed – New windshield in 2023 – The heat exchanger does not come from – water box and processes n – Two blind plugs were missing on the underfloor, which were added about 2 months ago. Someone still had a tip? It is only in the area of the driver’s side and really only on the ground. You can’t see that it is running down somewhere, because everything is dry there. What I can add. I used to install the lateral bars of the V70 on the windscreen. The rubber at the top of the windscreen is loose, Volvo Werkstatt says that is so normal.
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V70 2.4T – Software specialists – who is serious and knows about?
Hy, though, has a software / motorsport specialist at hand. He does my Volvo, but is not his hobby horse. That’s why I’m looking for someone specializing in the brand/motors. Who can be recommended here in Germany / Austria, which is also really serious. Maybe with test bench Some hardware has already been changed. Answers from unloved people are undesirable (meaning the various forums only contribute with nonsense, & to the actual topic nothing). Herzli thanks in advance! Jerry
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Shock absorbers – what is good?
Moose #2 drives like Grandma’s old sofa … Feels nice, but is still quite insecure. 2 shock absorbers are according to Dekra after the test ‘quickly’ over. The fast new one has to be clear – but what to take ? AHK is / does not come in, have already one in Elch #1, rear standard damper. Certainly rarely, that I will drive with a lot of cargo. It doesn’t have to be (more) soft, (stick-) Hard I don’t necessarily need it either. Drive like fast, but also fast – but have to be rally-suitable the dampers are not. Normal safe stop just. Here a little hit parade after the first price inspection in the bay: (damper without brand specification I have not rated) 159,- € – MEYLE (VA/HA gas) 243,. € – Sachs Touring (gas / oil) 309.- € – Monroe 314.- € – KYB (oil front, gas +10 €) 470,. € – KONI yellow Prices plus shipping costs – maybe there are here and there in the WWW possibly cheaper or certainly even more expensive. Meyle jumps into the eye with the price. Does that do what ? Does the already m al someone installed ? The Sachs is available at a provider to this really good course as I think. Are actually the standard installed ?! So why not again. What advantages / disadvantages do Monroe have ? Are there any Dito KYB at all. Koni I don’t necessarily have to be and depart from the price anyway, unless someone knows a very good source. Let’s hear !
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Oval end pot only at 144 HP suction diesel??
Hello dear professional people. I am completely new in the forum and would like to have a question in the round. My good V70 has an oval end pot and buzzes powerfully in front of it. Now I happened to read at ebay-kleinanzeigen that only the 144 HP suction diesel has an oval end pot. Mine is a gasoline switch to LPG. The old moose makes quite a noise. So in my opinion not only the exhaust is very loud, but also the engine. The workshop has at least a defective engine bearing diag. But the main question is: Does the 144 Ps petrol engine actually have original other exhaust, or at least the end pot, makes sense or is it even necessary to replace it? Why do diesel and petrol engines have different silencers at all? I’m out of the age where a car has to roll around. As a comfortable travel car (and this is a V70 all the time) doesn’t have to make unnecessary noise… Thanks already and nice greetings, Johannes
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Sale of a Volvo V70 T1
Servus in the V70 Volvo round I listened to my son’s advice at the beginning of September and finally added a Volvo to me. It is a V70 T1 car with 142 KW engine and the first registration in April 1997 and proven running 317tsd. km. In the Volvo workshop of the seller I was confirmed that the car at 257 ts km got a belt change and a complete overhaul of the rear axle. He has always gone through the TÜV without any defects and has also another year Until the next examination. The defects that have not disturbed the previous owner I want to fix now gradually. These are : The air conditioning is without function The cruise control does not work The electrical adjustment of the exterior mirrors is broken, but as a new part with it and recently the passenger door has to be opened from the inside. So I immediately bought the repair instruction from Bucheli Verlag for the Volvo 850 and V70 for the model years 1994 to 2001. big, because although the newer V70 model is shown almost 90% only the 850 is explained and my V70 is not even mentioned in the motorization. Now I strongly hope that I am in good hands with you at the right address and that the one or the other from your round can help me a bit. I am looking forward to everything that comes to me now and thanks already in advance Rolf
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Valve shaft seals – Shopping list
Hello together, since I want to renew the valve shaft seals in two weeks, I am just putting together a “shopping list” – this consists of: 1. Valve shaft seals (Volvo original) 2. Simmerring camshafts (4 pcs.) 3. Sealing/Sealant valve lid (Is there actually a seal or is one always working with “liquid seal” – Which do I take there?) Have I forgotten something or too much – or does it look good? And…can someone use a tool to hold down recommend the valve springs or pull out the old VSD? V70_98er_B5252S 10V_Automat_360.000KM Greeting and thanks from Münster Ral
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Expected lifetime – your opinion?
Hello everybody, I’m interested in your opinion: My V50 (a D3 from 4/12) currently has a good 66,000 km on the clock and gathers diligently on. Until a few months ago, most of the kilometers came from the long journeys between Munich (my home) and Dortmund (my little daughter’s home). For some time now, many trips between Munich and Italy (my friend’s place of residence, easy distance about 420 km) are added. In other words, my V50 is up-to-date and until further notice It’s a lot on the highway. It’s actually almost all long-distance kilometers that the car collects, between 3500 and 4000 km per month. In the city itself I’m practically never driving a car, but public transport. I’m now thinking about the expected lifespan. My plan was actually (and still is) to drive the car to scrapping because I really love it. But I’m starting to wonder if a sale now, since the kilometers are not too many or would it make more sense to keep the V50? How long will it last, probably, if you can predict it on the basis of your own experience? I have read a lot in the forum here about expected repairs, weak points, etc. at the V50. But what I lack are long-distance experiences. If it is important: I have three years of connection guarantee, but the relativizes itself also mi t increasing mileage a bit. Greetings Thomas
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Safety belts
Hello, I’m relatively new here with you. I drive a V50 MJ2010 1.6 DRIVe and am very happy with the car Since I bought it used, I have a question: If you want to strap off, the belt lock “wear” so you have to hold it down so that the belt jumps out. Is that what I want or should I let the friendly one look at it again? Thank you very much!
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Upgrade cigarette lighters to 12V socket
Hello, for the connection of my navigation system I would like to exchange the cigarette lighter in the center console for a 12V socket. Is this to be done without much effort alone? Maybe someone has some useful hints (material requirements, work steps etc.). What would the upgrade cost when? Thanks Matze