MOTOR-TALK

Category: Honda Forum

  • Vibrating on tours between 1000-2000 u/min….

    Hello and Greetings I have been driving a Volvo V50 T5 AWD 2.5T petrol engine for half a year. KM Stand 220’000. Since I purchased the vehicle, fine vibrations that can be read in the seat and in the touring display are plowing me. Previous activities: gear scrubbing, Haldex scrubbing, LMM cleaned, camshaft adjustment valves tested, SW update in motor and automatic machine as well as Haldex. You can feel the vibration in the seat and a slight lowering of the tours are noticeable. But it remains the same. This at constant speed and with almost rolling operation. Then when giving gas (load) it switches down and you can’t feel anything more than 2000 rpm. If it falls under this mark while rolling and I give only fine gas it immediately reappears. Remarks: same behavior Cold or warm, since the transmission felt it seems to have become a little stronger (previously old thicker oil?) I ended up with my Latin and even the Volvo representative stands before a riddle. My fears are the shift slider .. 😉 Can someone give me any tips Thanks and friendly greetings Christian

  • Drive shaft?

    Moinmoin. Another blow of my racing elk makes me look for further advice here. When changing the front brakes (discs and coverings) we found that the drive shaft makes light noises. Even with heavy steering (when parking) there is always a light “kablonk”. The screwdriver of my trust means: drive shaft. Now the question arises: should I install new or used? The moose is now 16 years young and has 245 tkm, stands well until s Very well there, is fun and everything (a T5 with 239 moose strengths, combi, EZ 6/99 = mood ;-)). The mechanic is a heart-good guy who doesn’t shy away from used parts. What I think is good. And I really have to convince him to install new parts if there is no other way. Where can I find good, maybe even tested and used parts? How about “no-name” parts? Look forward to your feedback. Best regards, Søren

  • Camshaft housings

    A nice morning! Recently I am proud owner of a C70 1 2.0T, only unfortunately he has a little problem.. Up in the crankshaft lid collects oil, I went to the bottom of the thing and found that 2 threads are through, now I wanted to cut them again. Now you are asked, does anyone know if the timing belt has to be opened when I open the lid? And should this be the case, can the “old” strap be used again? Would it be annoying if not, because this was made new by the previous owner about 400KM. Although I have already found a similar trend (http://www.motortalk.de/…/valve cover seal4966156.html?…) only this one is already a little older, and it is the bigger engine.. Hope someone can help me 🙂

  • Windscreen wiper minimum standard?

    Hi, with my V2 I had to find out in the rain that the windscreen wiper obviously does not stop interwall switching. Also, the wiper does not go back automatically to its initial position. The wipe-wash operation only makes a wash at the front but does not wipe. At the back it works. At the V1 everything was fine in this regard. There was also a controller in the instrument cluster. Does this mean that there is something in the wrong place? Or is this a minimal standard version of Volvo for the Dutch Protestant-ascetic market – my V2 is a Dutchman? Or could I upgrade the windshield wiper circuit with some craft (from my V1 to V2) according to the Roman Catholic motto: Who has to be given [also good view]? Jürgen

  • Volvo is only running in standby gas…

    moin, need some help, where I should start troubleshooting… The Volvo (see signature) has stood for about 10 days. Wet, damp weather, strong ground fog. When starting it ran a little rough, ABS and Tracs lights did not go out! After a kilometer stopped (put in a letter), then started again, ABS errors still there… After about 2km the engine went off! On restart he jumped briefly, but died immediately. After several further attempts and some waiting time e ADAC was there, tapped for errors in the ABS control unit. So plugs were pulled off, engine was running, no speed fluctuations, no speed fluctuations… Sound good, disconnected plug isolated, goes also provisional without ABS to home, so ADAC away… After about half an hour I also wanted to go… and came out 100m far! Engine! He died immediately after an immediate start attempt, after a little break he ran only slightly longer. So ADAC Called back… Started in the waiting time for a try…, he jumped immediately and ran impeccable in idle! Just let him run and wait a while, without touching the accelerator! He ran unreservedly warm, until the fan switched on… zack… engine off! So I have the impression, as soon as a (stronger?) consumer is switched on or gas is given, the error appears. ADAC then dragged me the short way home.. I cleared out the station wagon once in the back and the Re Then you can also hear the petrol pump running at “Züdung an” . Petrol pump relay 103 I actually had brand new in reserve , the exchange however also did not change anything … So where should I start with the troubleshooting?

  • Scramble wheel water pump broken

    My moose suddenly became very hot, the water temperature quickly rose into the red area. The reason: The plastic shovel wheel of the water pump is broken into several parts. When I pulled the pump out, a few plastic particles came to me – unfortunately not very many. With the idea to flush the cooling circuit a little through, I tipped a pot of water into the balance tank and saw what comes out below. With my shovel wheel puzzle but unfortunately always noc h a few parts. My plan is actually to just install a new pump… If the engine temperature is OK then nothing should be blocked too much. On the other hand, the thought that there are still some plastic particles of unknown size is bothering me. Does one of you have a tip for me? Or am I thinking too much?

  • Spark plug shot up out

    Hello, early today at pace in front of the traffic lights, km stand 170.000: – suddenly strong engine noise, similar to hole in the exhaust, unround run – yellow light (OBD-2) flashes, clear text “slower drive or turn up” – still 3.8 km slowly driven home – reading out the Volvo codes: none – reading out the OBD-2 codes: P0300 and P0304: misignitions on cylinder 4 – artificial cover on cylinder head dismantled – –> ignition coil cylinder 4 is pushed shaky upwards, oil has leaked – shut down rob the ignition coil – I can then simply pull out the ignition rinse broken at the shaft and the candle with the hand (!) up – The candle is crushed from below one side Since the plunger can never touch the candle directly, a valve would probably have to be torn off and laid between the plunger and candle, then the plunger with the help of the valve has pushed the candle together with the ignition coil up (?) Who has experienced similar experiences, who has another explanation? Thank you

  • S80 I – Upgrade AHK – please contact us for information

    Hello together, after I have bought a small 750 kg trailer, I now also need an AHK. So far I have always had to borrow the S60 of my father, because he has a removable AHK installed – but it has become too annoying for me now. I have the choice between our Polo 6N and our S80. However, the polo with its 50 pesas may have serious problems with the trailer weight of max. 750 kg. So he drags thus almost his own weight after himself. h really do that to the “little one”? The S80 shouldn’t even feel the trailer, I think . Here are two variants to choose from – “fixed & removable”. A fixed AHK is not considered for optical reasons, because it looks rather suboptimal. A removable one would be more preferable to me. My related questions are therefore: – Does anyone have experience with retrofitted AHK ́s ??? – Lt. my first research in the WWW amount to about 350.- incl Kab elsatz (for the polo ca. 170.-) – someone knows other prices ??? – What does this fun cost me at VOLVO ??? – Which alternative manufacturers are there, and what about their qualities ??? – What does the installation cost me when I order a set from the net ???? After some back & forth it should probably hit the S80, although I am not absolutely enthusiastic. But I don’t really have to expose the polo to such an agony. Lick me at the foot – I just can’t f What does YOU mean ??? Greeting from HB ALEX PS: In the appendix, a small VOLVO feature for your answers

  • VOLVO S80 T6 Automatic transmission…switching problems…..

    Hello dear sweden;-D I have run a problem with my new s80 T6 76tkm. and how to follow… he tells me left in the display “gear maintenance“` and on the right side he shows me the motor control light.. so far up to 110 kmh everything is so great, he pulls well, does not jerk etc, however, if I pass the 110 kmh he 1. does not go into the 4th gear and then goes into the emergency running program, say no… no power!!!! if I switch off the engine and get it back to mac he, he goes through normal again. what he does now and then is, when I slowly step on the gas pedal nothing happens first and then he gives fire, but the gearbox translates butter soft. you also have to say, that gear was completely overtaken for 1800 euro on this error.. villt did you have a few ideas. would be very happy about a little help. greetings and thanks dennis

  • Lifespan Xenon pears Original Volvo ??

    Lifespan Xenon pears Original Volvo ?? Hello has any of you already experience how long such a xenon pear lasts?? Since I always drive with light I asked my friend and he meant so 5 times longer than H7 about during then so 150tkm. When I asked still what such a pear costs he meant about 120€ to 150€ there are also even cheaper pears directly from Philips or Osram maybe??? thanks you already for all your information and experiences on the topic Xenon pears Lebensda and price. Greetings Michael N.