Category: Honda Forum

Moin, yesterday after shopping I got out of the parking lot and I ran out of engine. As an error message came “battery voltage low energy saving mode”. The engine could not be started after that. Then I called the ADAC which towed me off. At home I connected the laptop to the vehicle and showed me 2 errors. B108700 LIN-BUS A Permanent U012000 starter/generator control unit voltage too high Permanent I already have a n a bit looked on the Internet and came across the following: http://www.jagrullar.se/forum/viewtopic.php?f=56&t=125945 Unfortunately I understand only half so I hope someone here had the problem and can help me. I thank you in advance for your help. with the vehicle data Volvo S60 2400ccm3 D5 BJ: 2010 KM: 157418

Hello, my V70 III D3 (110 kW/150hp) with Geartronic and Start/Stop from 2017 drives me crazy. Since the purchase in February, I have a phenomenon that he starts to jerk and shake shortly after the perfect start, and then usually to go out. If I start him again, he runs like a Swiss movement, and then to “cough” a few times more noticeably at the next 500 – 1000 m. I changed the pressure sensor on the particle filter, the AGR cooler and the AGR valve. He also has a brand new starter battery. The official Volvo workshop is stunned, the tester does not emit any error message and nothing is displayed in the on-board computer. Fuel consumption is normal, i.e. around 6l/100 km and I hardly drive short distances, because of which he might be able to coke. After swapping the AGR valve and the cooler four weeks ago, the problem had not occurred during the entire holiday in the pre-alpines, on the day of arrival back in d he home and after a total of 2,000 km of distance in the 14 holiday days the phenomenon was immediately back. Does anyone still have a ignite idea here? Thank you already for the help

Hello have a question to report engine system maintenance required. Were on the way yesterday in the Black Forest, on the way back came then when driving on the BAB after the kickdown the message. I then stopped and looked at of course nothing to see, éL and so everything is good, performance drop I noticed nothing of. But then also took him home carefully. The car is first registration 05/2012 a D3 5cylinder with 163 Ps ,Tachostand Aktuell 119500tkm. No short distance, is my Pri Vatwagen still has a working car, this one to the few km. At the friendly I already called, wait for a call back from them. Up to data I never had problems with the moose, except my accident 2 years ago. Maybe someone has a tip what it can be. Have just found another Fred, can it come through this part? Have had the same sounds.https://www.motor-talk.de/…/…n-des-motors-v40-d3-t7025316.html?… Thank you and Gruss Micha

My XC 60 D5 was built in 6/2015 and ran 80,500km. In 2017 I completed the Volvo Pro connection warranty Plus, as I saw it as a good investment in the future, as it can be completed up to 10 years or 200,000km. Prospectus, dealer etc. It is not very cheap with over € 1,190,- either. It runs out on 2.7.23 and I wanted to extend it further, but only got the forms for the Pro BASIC. When I filed the complaint, my dealer found that the Pro Plus could only be extended until the 8th year. From year 8-10 only the basic would be eligible. On all documents, on the Volvo homepage etc. is clearly up to 10 years or 200,000 km. I would have completed with the knowledge only the basic, since at the beginning is hardly anything. Who has a similar experience? I have already written Volvo and sent all documents there. I would be grateful if someone has already dealt with it or can give me tips. Thank you

Hello together. I have a v60 d3/d4 2.0 163 for a short time. Shortly after the purchase (from private) about 1000km I had to refill cool water. After I did not find any recognisable leak, I filled UV additive into the circulation. Without results. So I assume that it goes through the exhaust. A pressure pruning (warm driven) overnight was also fine. (according to the workshop) It must also have been properly at temperature, as the average consumption when picking up a co2 test I couldn’t do, because there was too much foam coming from the tank. clear, not normal, but where does it come from? gas / overpressure from the engine would indicate leakyness, but should be noticed in the amount when pressing. I had suspected before pressing that the engine was pushing what into the cool water circulation. Possibly the pressure is not sufficient at the pressure pruning and it is the nasty hair crack. then the water would not be verb I read all the articles about it, but I didn’t find anything suitable. Does anyone have an idea? I’m grateful for everything.

Moin, I switched all the interior lighting to Weie LEDs on my moose. Now I still lack the ambient lighting in the roof console and for the compartment in the middle behind the center console. Since I have not found anything for hours I want to remodel this myself and would need the schematic to want to solder these soldering or soldering. Tiny SMDs that are glued to the circuit board are built. Does anyone have experience with this or perhaps the circuit diagrams? Yes ic h could also easily measure this out with the multimeters, but questions cost nothing pictures have unfortunately not been better captured, but you can guess how horny it is in real.

Good day Together, I’ve prepared everything for the timing belt change, and before the timing belt comes down I’m about to turn the two OT markings clockwise via the crankshaft. The rotation changes from heavy to smooth. Just before I reach the two markings it’s a bit more difficult again. The markings can be targeted very closely and then the motor just turns on its own a few cm further, so that the markings Does anyone have an idea how to adjust the markings normally? Should I just start the car again to have a different camshaft position? With my predecessor volvo this was not too difficult to adjust. Model: Volvo V70 Bj 2006 (motor 5244T4) Greetings Matteo