Category: Honda Forum

Hello I have a little problem with my air conditioning on my Volvo C70 2.0T Jg 2001. Start the engine, the climate turns on normally, after about 10-15 minutes the climate turns off and brings only warm air. After a few minutes it turns on again and cools down for 5-10 minutes and then it turns off again. This then goes on all the time. Since we in Switzerland do not always have over 30° I could do without the air conditioning but today I was on the road in continuous rain and there constantly all the windows run on and this is then very tedious. Who knows this problem? The friendly means it could be the climate compressor. Before I have a new installation for Fr. 900.- I ask in the forum if the problem is known. Is it really the compressor or can it be something else? My convertible has a climate automation. Thank you for the answers.

Hello, to the error description of the engine starts with gasoline briefly on approx. 1000U/min then back to 500U/min and humps in front of you? The speed increases slowly (without giving gas). In the meantime, it “plops” out of the engine compartment. When it is reached again over 1000U/min the engine runs. Switching to gas without problems, can also be started in gas without any problems. On straight distance from gas switched to petrol, the speed stops, but as soon as I give gas (pedal, no car gas) the car will slow down has no power to keep speed is just going. When driving longer with gasoline on the highway (approx. 120km/h) the Lambda light has lighted times. Errors read out A2 1-1-1 A3 4-4-4 / 1-4-2 > that should be the ABS, because of the defective contact plate the ABS light has cleaned all times like lighted engine 93kW 2.0-10V No change of air has been done here so far 317,000 km 22.08.2012 Oil change with filter LIQUI MOLY Top Tec 4100 5W-40 transmission oil change of ignition plate LIQLY cleaned the MUNY

Bäähh. Now it seems that my elk has also come up. So far this has never been a topic. My sitting dog has called in. The following has happened: On Friday I had to get 400 km behind me. At km 395 suddenly the MKL lit up. On the surface there were no symptoms. But… I put the track behind me on gas. In the gas operation the elk also runs nicely smooth. However, I had the last time the subjective feeling that the passage is already quite sluggish. In the petrol operation the elk runs for a long time not quite smooth. However, I did not attach so much value to it, because I only need gasoline to start. Also with the idleness behavior the elk has its problems in the petrol operation. Driving and then decoupling means that it already needs a little bit, until the correct idle speed number has fed in. Since the jump of the MKL it also does not turn cleanly high in the petrol operation. Yesterday I turned out. Error code on A2: 2-3-1 I am quite happy to accept the problem.

Hello! I and/or we are looking for a new car. Currently we are on the road with a Vectra GTS as a family car which becomes more and more a problem because simply the place is missing. Family car goes differently 🙂 After VW T5, BMW E60/61 and Opel Omega I have now landed at the V70 I and need your help with two vehicles that I have found in the net: On the one hand: http://home.mobile.de/VE-TECS-CARS#des_185200306 and this: http://home.mobile.de/VE-TECS-CARS#des_174630346 The one has nice few kilometers down and the other the more appealing equipment for me. Then the difference 140 to 144hp. The 140 is probably a castrated 170hp engine and the 144 is rather the more robust older engine. Corrects me if I’m wrong….come out of the Opel shelf 🙂 Automatic is obliged-will no longer have a switchcar. Which one the car is more recommended to me?

What I have read here from time to time has now come to me: the brake pads of the hand brake are detached from their base. This can be quickly fixed by replacement, but what happens if such a lining completely dissolves during the ride, I dare not imagine. I would now recommend everyone to take down the rear brake drums from time to time and look under them. How did I come to this? In the last few days I had twice the phenomenon that I had loosened the hand brake after parking, but still braked it as if something was blocked or the pads were stuck to the drum.

evening, the petrol pump relay has the number 103 and is located behind the steering wheel. since I am supposed to bridge the thing, ask me 2 questions before I pull out: a) are there only 2 pins or do I have to guess which pins I have to bridge? the latter is rather uncool… and b) bripped, without relays, promotes the pump then exactly WHEN gasoline? ignition level 2? mfg

moin moin, my parents have a volvo 850 with the 5 cylinder. He still runs like one. But he has always had a macke. Sometimes he doesn’t start. he tries it, but then he only goes out and behaves as if he doesn’t want to ignite (or just wants to ignite wrongly). Then you turn the key back and then he usually jumps cleanly at the second attempt (just in the third or fourth try) as if nothing was going on. It is possible to mention that he sometimes has a fluctuating, falling speed at the ample. However, he still doesn’t have that long and not all the time. If he is really cold, sometimes a hydrostuttle falls out. However, I don’t know if he is from the inlet or out.

Hello, my old good loyal Volvo 850 is not so good together anymore. TÜV would have become too expensive for us. That’s why we bought a new car and want to “lose” the Volvo now. The basic data: Built. 95 Volvo 850 Combi 2.2 liter gasoline 225,000 km HU/AU just expired Condition: Outside already quite used up. Some rust spots. Inside still ok but also clearly used. To get through the TÜV we would have to plug in approx. Euro 1,500,- on wear parts (mainly joints and suspension). In addition, the front wheel has a thick crack since last week (approx. 20cm). In addition, it blows out quite violently in the back (for longer). Where would you put the value of the car?