Category: Honda Forum

Hey guys, this week the rope pull to open the bonnet on my handle was torn. Since I had a lot of pain yesterday and you always have experiences, shortly after you could have used them, I wanted to share mine. The bowden pull runs from the hood lock under the battery carrier, air filter box along the spring leg to the spray wall in a kind of bellows, which then also makes a small left turn. In the inside everything comes then behind the relay box in the driver’s footroom like r out. First out the battery and air filter box. Punch all the relays inside and put them aside. Out the cover from the fuse box and then the 3 screws with which the SK itself is screwed on. Out the clamps over the two large cable strands and then pull out the SK a good bit up. Now you get from the inside to the cable entry. From the engine compartment no one can reach if you have not just removed the ABS block anyway. But even then children’s hands are still too gr My first plan to stick the new train to the old one and pull both through ended with the fact that I had the old train outside but did not have the new one in it. The simplest variant is the following: Hang out Bowden train at the hood lock and pull only the train out of the shell. The cover remains where it is. Kneep off the old train a little bit at the torn off end. Kneep off the hull about between the battery floor and air filter box. Now the old train with the pinched side ahead of it. Now put the ball ends of the old and the new train on top of each other and tighten them with a small cable tie. Now the whole thing can be pulled out wonderfully from the engine compartment. Now everything can be connected again and assembled and finished. I had spent 2 hours pushing the old pulled out shell back into the passage to lead the new train from the inside to the outside. That was only possible with etl I hope it helps and the change is quick and will not cause any frustration repair. VG Janko

Hello! With the V70 BJ 98 2,4T with 193 hp, the ABS lamp lights up. At the beginning it was only sporadically, error reading brought “ABS pump motor”. Now it lights up permanently. Is there extra to buy this pump motor? Or is that something reparable? The V70 is actually only moved on short distances and the ABS is not absolutely necessary, can it be deactivated somehow so that the lamp in the speedometer runs out or do you have to extend the speedometer and remove the lamp? Thanks! LG

Hello I am looking for infos as described in the title already the background is the one we have bought our volvo v70 2,5T AWD as a “workhorse” I drive 80-90% with trailer and if the turn is it hangs so in the cellar that is not beautiful and since the shock absorbers must be exchanged at the back anyway I thought to be right against it 🙂 or has already solved the problem with new dampers which possibilities I have there thanks already greeting maico

Good evening love community, like so many users, I register here out of desperation with regard to my Volvo C70 2.4T automatic (BJ. 2001) with Aisin AW55-50SN transmission. The following scenario is available. I purchased the car a month ago used, the transmission turned off fine, if one takes the usual wear at the mileage of 250,000 kilometers, but at warm temperature and between the third and fourth gears somewhat rough. Therefore, because I am through the my workshop was commissioned to change gear oil, where part of the oil should be changed and also the B4 cover update should be installed. Both have now been done. At the evening pickup, I was told at the handover that the gear would run a little bit bigger, so I thought that it might have to adapt a little bit more and that this would only be marginally noticeable. At the ride, however, the big shock came, because from the second to the third gear and from the third to the fourth gear, the gearbox practically does not switch or only with a fixed and far delayed jerk, before the engine wakes up with the speed and generates no power transmission, as if I were giving full throttle at N. This had brought me smoothly into a dangerous situation during the ride. I then carefully drove the short distance home, as the workshop was already running. I have now searched the internet for a variety of reasons for these symptoms, but found nothing. Finally, when I was in cold condition, I measured the gear oil level and got a terror, because this is far above the necessary brand. Of course, I will go to the workshop tomorrow, my question is nevertheless, can it be due to the too high oil level? Must something be new from Volvo di I thank you in advance for possible help. Greetings Michu

Hy, do you know what minimum voltage the cover needs for it to work ? From a certain voltage, this doesn’t work and it only flashes at the switch, although everything is OK with the cover and its control. Can’t you take it out ? Because it bothers me when the battery is still so good that everything works problemlessly, the car starts without problems ect, but the cover means like a little princess, no I don’t like it, it’s not enough Volt ect…. he woman didn’t jump on because of the same crap and said battery voltage was too low, although this battery was ok…. New cheap AGM in and everything goes again….doesn’t cost anything, such an AGM at these times, even in shopping…

Moin Moin people !! Car: Volvo V70/1 BJ.98 LPT (Softturbo) with 193PS car is unannounced and without TÜV on a yard so I can not move the cart away without using a trailer! Since my V70/1 BJ.98 has problems with the SRS system I thought I was loading with Brick Diag and look at what’s going on … Well laptop finished BrickDiag put adapters in the car … and as always worked again nothing, as I had hoped it without a problem Error description of BrickDiag is (protocol error) ?? So drive home and search in the 2 forums for answers … Answer found ?! BrickDiag has problems with the control units of the Volvos which own an El. throttle flap because there is a “small” Can Bus ?! So please one can help me now and explain to me what is possible now with the ODBII socket and how I best delete the SRS error around the box TÜVen ?? A Volvo Koll ege was already close by and had the original Vida Dice device with it! But it didn’t come into the SRS memory! Now I got again an ODBII KKL adapter with USB because I only had one with serial connection. Now a couple of questions: Which programs still work for old Volvo models ? have read modiag?? Does the Blinkbox work with me and gives it a good instruction ?? MFG and thanks already for the help !!!

Hello everybody, have a little, annoying problem. For a few days the clock has been taking a break in the instrument cluster from my 850s of the night: Say, if I look at it the next day, then it’s going after. So between 20 minutes and an hour. Has anyone ever had this before? Thank you for your efforts already.

Hello Volvo friends, I have been flashing REC and AC since yesterday. According to my research, it could be fixed by cleaning the jam air sensors. However, I can’t find them on my grips (left top of the head or on the right side). Are there other grips meant? LG Cheasy

Hello together, 3 days ago my brake (front left) started to get hot and (obviously) no longer glide back decently. Saddle and rim were very hot. I now took down the saddle at Easter-WE and found out that the cuff had torn and thus water had penetrated. The piston looks accordingly “eating”: however, the system slowed down until the end “normal”. Here my questions: 1. I do not get the piston pushed out of the saddle. (drawn) – what can this be? Is the piston in any form secured against “discharge”? 2. Can a “eating” piston be re-reprocessed (easy lubricating so that it can be re-installed in the saddle. (with new cuff)? 3. Work in my case if necessary repair kits – does anyone have experience with it? Greetings and thanks – and… there is something Ralf rushing.

Hello! I would like to buy a few other rims and a few distance discs for my Volvo V70 soon. I don’t really know what to take with the distance discs, for the widening of the track. I don’t think you should grab the 50mm discs right away…Who of you has such a thing on the car? Should you choose a little bit narrower in the front than in the back? And the wheels should close nicely with the fender and not necessarily go beyond that. And now the core question e…How do I choose the right rims? The hole circle of my car would have to be 5/108, right? And what diameter can they have? Can you put 18 or 19 inch rims on it? I would also like to just have more rims and a little less tires… Above all, where does it start to look affable? It should already be noticeable, but discreet. It may also be a little more sporty. I don’t necessarily want to lower the wheel box. the whole car just a little more to my liking. The rims should possibly be nice black, like the car itself (tasting thing), but I am still superior!