Category: Honda Forum

Dear Elchis and Elchins, just got off and just a little confused…after hearing a crack in the front axle for a few weeks, I decided to drive directly to Volvo, to have the problem repaired and then to have an axle measurement carried out. To the info: I only had the moose for almost 6 months, so still with a dealer’s warranty! After an hour the call came from the workshop: actually the complete front axle has to e be overtaken!!! Damn!!!! Here’s the estimate: 1. Shock absorber front 2. Dom bearing 3. Spring plate 4. Crossbars li/re 5. Internal track bar 6. Axle measurement And all this for limp 1900.- €. What would interest me at this point is what you think of the price? I immediately called my dealer, who first did not get a bad impression, especially since the car received a new TÜV only 5 months ago without defects….can I get the repair about the warranty ma Do you think the questions are not too stupid…I’m not a hobby screwdriver or anything like that…. Oh yes: V 70 II, year 2002, 140PS Thank you in advance for the answers! Dearest greetings from Berlin, Marcin

Good day to the readers, I had to sit down when I had to take note of the following: Some time ago I had ordered a third key without FB – cost point 35,-€, not very cheap but well, I thought, is just more in than at my bike lock. Unfortunately I could not start the car with it – back to – after that the start worked. Today I got an invoice for 43,-€ for “Programming & Software of the ignition key”. How now? E in working key without FB costs 78,-€ (pronounce 150+DM!!) Should this be normal or do I really just have the wrong workshop? grumbling, the manatee

Hello to each other, probably one or the other will hit the hands over the head, but I have not found a suitable answer to my question and therefore open the new thread. I drive a Volvo V70 D5 after countless 900 models now. Since some KM I worry about the automatic transmission. I try to describe it in the best possible way. When changing gears (e.g. P to D or the other side) the transmission switches very late. It takes between one and two seconds until the But if I have the foot only minimally on the accelerator pedal, the aisle slips in with a proper bang and the vehicle moves. After that he drives quite unobtrusively. A reading of the error code at the contract workshop revealed nothing. Do I have to worry seriously, I am not used to such a delayed switching from the old 965er (as I miss it)? Besides, there is another problem. m: When unlocking the ZV, a loud screaming sound above the rear right wheel box can be heard. What could it be? Actuator? I am grateful for every attempt at a fault diagnosis and tips for further handling. Here is the technical data: V70 D5 Built 2002 2.4 l 183.000km 163 HP/ 120kw Thanks

Moin together! I had already attached myself to my question in another thread, but unfortunately no answers were received there, despite 30 readers since then, that I decided to open my own thread, because the question is burning under my nails. I know you all have the topic already 1000000000…. sometimes chewed through, but it is not always about the S60, the topics partly old and/or the providers have changed. So the following: I have a 2002 S60 mi t 140hp and I’m also a bit followed by the motor light. At the moment it is the control probe, i.e. the front lambda probe, which is displayed as a fault and which was also replaced by the workshop. There was a new Bosch universal, which probably does not want to fit. If the engine is cold, it becomes a bit bumpy at the first few 100 meters. If the car is warm, however, it stops immediately and when the error has been deleted, it does not come back even with any number of rides and new stars, As long as the engine remains warm. Since this is not a permanent condition and with an original probe with almost 300€ a little bit appears, I need help with the correct probe choice. In the forum several times was called Uni-Fit, the control probe costs 95€ and, as far as I can see, has the appropriate plug. Has someone experience with the probe and can recommend it? Then we would have the Skandix house brand for 169€. Is already close twice as expensive. Can you do that? someone would say what? And last but not least the part web pages like part owners etc, which offer a lot of probes for 50-150€. Does someone have a tip at which provider, which probe can be purchased calmly? I can not necessarily see if there is the right plug on it, whether the diagnostic or control probe is and whether it fits my car. Sometimes it should be the right one for the engine, but then only Euro3, so it can not be the right one. The workshop takes back the Bosch without any problems and installs the right one. I just have to get it and I ask you for your help so that I can finally have peace of mind. PS: The probe has to fulfill Euro4. I have read that this does not necessarily have to be the case with Denso. Thank you very much.

Hello, the XC70 MY07, which I had to receive in the next few days, has comfort blinkers. I find these things quite terrifying. My owner claims that you can’t change it (by software). Is that true? Is it possible to turn off this module by means of “secret :-)” software? Or by removing any special relay (which is supposed to be mounted at the turn signal lever, was in a mail for the comfort turn signal)? Thank you, Gruesse, Eduard.

Hello, fluctuate between above mentioned motorizations. The gasoline engine would be converted to LPG. Maintenance costs should be very similar, purchase also. Hazards I am the diesel, I like quite well. How is the gasoline engine compared? has 50 HP more. How would your recommendation look? Greetings Römi

Meal! Wants to get rid of one thing that I have noticed many times in some Volvo models, namely the lack of creeping function (i.e. when you release the brake in D or R and the car crawls off). Most Volvo ́s I’ve driven so far (S80 D5 Aut., V70 2.5T AWD Aut., Volvo V70 D5 Aut. 2 times XC 90 D5 163PS Aut. etc.), the creeping function was very low. You had to solve the brake almost completely until it started and then only very slowly ( For most other automatic vehicles, you can get at least 10km/h on the level. On light mountains, the Volvo ́s are already not crawling and on middle mountains already rolled back (I don ́t know from my or other automatic vehicles at all). Especially bad was the V70 2.5T AWD Aut. (EZ.03). The first time I drove down with the one from a gas station, got into after refueling, went on drive, loosened the brake (tiny climb) and nothing happened. I had already done. But both were not the case. Especially the 163hp XC 90s were not much better, the 180hp XC 90 of my grandma crawls a bit stronger. The S80 D5 Aut. (Ez. 03) was the best, but also not comparable to many other AT-vehicles. Is this what Volvo wants, what is it like with you? I want to buy a Volvo, probably S80 2.9/T6. But if the creep function is such for ́n Popo i st, that would be an argument for me not to take the car. I want to park comfortably only with the foot on the brake and at least 80% of all mountains comfortably without rolling back. For me these are almost the most important automatic arguments. Thank you MFG Markus