Category: Honda Forum

Moin an alle It is a V70 Bj 2000 / 170PS Yesterday it was found that my air-conditioning dryer is rusted through. I want to replace it myself soon. I have already read something here in the forum and would like to start the order of the parts. Order the dryer, the cutting tool, 2 seals yellow (11/2mm) and two seals black (14/1,78mm). So I should have everything then, or missing what? One question still afterwards: I have read that in de n new air conditioning dryer should be filled in some compressor oil before installation. Is that true? If so, which oil exactly and where do I get it? Thank you for your help. Greetings Thomas

For the long autumn evenings I had planned to convert the switch light to LED. This perpetual lamp change was now really on my mind. In addition, the luminosity faded after a short time and the lamps became darker and darker. I had already experimented with some LEDs in the last few weeks and had the final solution now. The conversion of the 10 LED can be done easily in 2-3 hours, the result can really be seen. cht and can also convert to the big incandescent lamps if necessary. I quickly wrote a guide for the posterity. In a few weeks I forgot everything anyway. Next I will get ready for the lighting for the climate. It also dimmes in front of me.

Hello, my moose just doesn’t want to start. 850 Combi from 12/1996 with Beziner 144hp. Battery is charged. I can operate the ignition normally, the tell-tales also start at stage II (motor control lamp and ABS also off again), as soon as I turn the ignition key into stage III, the dipped light goes off, it does not clack once briefly and more. If I jump back the ignition key into stage II, the dipped light goes on again. Last week the car is two m al as described above did not start, I then waved on a few cables and pressed on all fuses, then it started again quite normally. Also quite normal without any stuttering or speed fluctuations 550 km with tank stops and jumps without problems. After that only overnight and following day put off and now stop as described above. I have now also once pulled the petrol pump relay and inserted again, but nothing changes. If I the ignition on II spins, but it also buzzes briefly, sounds like gasoline is being pumped. Even knocking against starters didn’t help either. He does not report any error code at the socket under the coin compartment. To check the cable it is now too dark, I will make tomorrow. Does anyone else have advice for me? Is it normal that the dipped light runs out when turning the ignition key from stage II to III? CSevenoak

Hello everybody, I’m very fresh here and I have a somewhat unpleasant situation to describe. I bought my first car today or yesterday, a Volvo 850 GLE. Now, during the course of the day and especially during the transfer journey, I noticed some defects that were not discussed before or not recognizable. The car is so good, the engine runs round, the car rusts not unusual. Now on the actual topic: the car was advertised with 300 .400km mileage, well. For the tour and test drive, which unfortunately was a little short, in about 5-10 minutes, much to me that the mileage was already close to 345,000km, I also mentioned that and considered during the price negotiation. What I did not notice was that the tacho is broken and no longer runs. This was only noticed today when picking up on the highway, after contract had already been signed and car was paid. In the purchase contract was other of course, I should have noticed the thing and the contract should have been completed more thoroughly, but I would like to point out that we all make mistakes and, since my first car, I also have little experience. In any case, I noticed afterwards at home that the current standing mileage is exactly equal to the mileage of the last TÜV report of September 2018. Furthermore, it has now emerged that the car already has 5 previous owners, in front of me, but the seller assured in the advertisement and in the presence of my companion that there are three. I was able to see the vehicle letter and bill for the first time at collection, but the contract was signed one day before with down payment. In addition, there are still small defects like a defective thermostat, since the car is generally good. However, I would like to know if I have a chance that the defective odometer is a reason to annul the contract or to receive a discount (repayment). Perhaps someone can help me here. With kind greeting Marvin Reinhardt

For a year I’ve been driving my moose with a screwdriver, ignition lock was only turned until the steering wheel lock was unlocked. Used lock acquired – today built in. Now the moose will not know the transponder in the new key, so I’ll hang the transponder coil, put the old key in there and try to start with the new key in the lock. Don’t jump on. Can I make the new key known with the system without OBD? Why will the old Tr ansponder no longer accepted at the antenna ring? Is the “Battery disconnect, door open, door close, three times close method” after Esker (found here) an option to solve my problem? I have a low cost OBD2 – USB interface for my notebook, but without any software. Does this help me somehow? Thank you in advance.