Category: Honda Forum

Moinsen, after laaaaaaaaaaanger Absinenz it is finally time: the old “Schrauberhalle Ahlerstedt” is again at the start as “Älg Garage Bargstedt”. And thus also the annual hall grilling appointment: 05. October 2019 from 10.00 o’clock what’s new The location! Now in 21698 Bargstedt (soon for rough planning, exact address follows in time) what’s like always : everything else! I put the barbecue, the barbecue charcoal, care for drinks (a box Cola/Fanta/Sprite – a box B ier, nen Kasten Wasser und Kaffee) Bierzeltantgarnituren und Knabberkram. Meat, sauces and salads please bring everyone for themselves and according to his taste / preferences. The last meetings were really always fun – there were no “outfalls”, delicious food and good conversations. A small exit with photo appointment will also be there again (Sa afternoon) and who takes a further arrival in charge can also like to crash at the hall (in the car or tent). here in the thread. That’s not a “legally binding commitment” I just don’t want to have too little grilled coal and – even worse – too little drinks on site and spontaneous guests can also “register” on Friday evening – ReWe has here until 10 pm So we see ourselves (at the latest) on 05.10.2019… Markus Thread zum Grillen 2017 -> https://www.motor-talk.de/…/…schrauberhalle-2017-t6063045.html?… Thread zum Grillen 2016 -> https://www.motor-talk.de/…/…erhalle-ahlerstedt-2016-t 5788868.html Thread zum Grillen 2015 -> https://www.motor-talk.de/…/…erhalle-ahlerstedt-2015-t5375619.html Thread zum Grillen 2014 -> https://www.motor-talk.de/…/…hlerstedt-am-17-08-2014-t5007723.html Thread zum Grillen 2012 -> https://www.motor-talk.de/…/…-am-18-08-2012-naehe-hhh-t4047415.html

Now my amarture board has probably also caught it. The very left screw probably doesn’t hold any more, it rattles for every pothole for half a year exclusively in the area of the A-pillar. All attempts to find another cause did nothing. I had carefully pulled the screw on the spray wall after, but brought nothing. I had then put cardboard neatly between the A-pillar and amarture board. In any case, I was able to eliminate the flapping temporarily. the damaged screw fastening on the board actually sift from the foot space. Or does this only happen in detachable condition. Before the expansion of the dashboard I still shy away.

After I tested the chip yesterday and were finally ready to pick up the hand brake ropes ordered 1 week ago at Volvo, I took the liberty of changing the parts. Hand brake ropes: 2×65 EUR Hand brake jaws: 50 EUR (Made in China) Small parts such as the 4 springs for the hand brake jaws: 20 EUR I have printed this description:http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/…/ Volvo has planned 2.5 hours for work = 300 EUR I prefer to save the 300 EUR And as I said this morning shortly before 9 started. To take it straight ahead: I would rather change the gluehbinnen in the headlights than have to change the Kack Seile again. You have to take out the rear seat cushions and lift the carpet so that you can slip the ropes out and again. Out the parts still go relatively easy: a rivet must be located out and a screw must be loosed.. But until the part is back in.. The problem is, that the carpet is relatively heavy and so much on the arm you use to hold the carpet up, while you try to get the cable back to the right position so that you can get the end to the handbrake lever afterwards.. I am now almost 3 hours and have “first” made one side.. Although the new cheeks are not even on it… I have to calm down now before I hit the car with the hammer..

Hello, on my moose the electric window lifter causes problems. Error description: Window on the driver side is half open and can no longer be driven up. If I press the switch down, a ratter is to be heard in the driver’s door, but windows stop. On the passenger side the window is then also dead, can no longer be moved. Oddly enough, then both electric outdoor mirrors are also out of function, so no adjustment via the switches is possible anymore. I think it’s not a mechanical error, but it’s because of the electrics. In the C70 manual it says that the fuse for the electric window lifters are under a cover and it’s not usually necessary to replace them (similar to the electric window lifters). R. House installation?). For the electric exterior mirrors the fuse 14 (40 A) is available. Can it be that the fuse for the exterior mirrors is switched in row behind the fuse machine for the window lifters? Who can help there, I unfortunately have no power plan and do not know where the fuses are hidden (cover next to fuse box?).

Hello Now good advice is expensive. This morning the moose refused the work for the first time. On Sunday he was still driving and this morning he did not want to start any more. I now read out errors:Injection and ignition system no errors. All 5 candles out , spark on all 5 fuses in the engine room ok Also with start pilot nothing. Petrol pump runs from the noise , you hear it The car has no immobilizer. I made 3 years ago remote control new (Relais and new hand transmitter) De r Starter runs differently than usual.But I only have the feeling because it comes immediately.Magnet switch goes however (with inserted gear he wants to go when starting). I now did not want to remove the injection strip in the dark anymore to control the nozzles. Or do I overlook something ?

Hello, I have a C70 T5 convertible, 193 ps, Bj 2001, mileage 164000 with ATM now 60,000km. Since last year there are problems with the car. The vehicle is driven only from April to ca November, then mothed I try to set it up chronologically. First drive after hibernation vehicle went out during the ride. Then did not jump again. Several times try not to succeed, so the yellow helpers called. Was a real demonstration effect. Fzg jumped again. Gl not found. then 2x after a long drive he didn’t jump on. longer waited then he had jumped on again. In autumn then again to the workshop, renewed clutch pedal positioner; according to error report signal too high. So I stayed still a few times (did not sprung on after previous drive) or the vehicle went out in the middle of the ride. – Contacts v engine control unit and ECU case pin assignment cleaned and sealed. -Software for Steue rgerät downloaded (TCM-ECM) -fuel pump relays exchanged – contact part of the ignition lock exchanged – throttle valve cleaned This year it went on, in the middle of the motorway ETS lamp, vehicle off. So again towed to. There was nothing stored in the fault memory. Sprung there also immediately. . Last week after longer drive he did not jump again. Towed to. Have tried there again after unloading, Fzg jumped on!! In all cases the He now had the following error code: ECM 902A. have the corresponding error codes for all repairs if this is helpful. Have replayed the latest software for the engine control unit. His statement looking for errors (electronic) could be expensive. Otherwise, I am not a specialist, but I have the feeling that the workshop doesn’t have a real plan now. Can the petrol pump “hang”? Is there also a error code for this? So lan I am very grateful in advance.

Today only a service maintenance should be done with my moose (V70 type I, BJ2000), but the TÜV is due soon, so you could look at it there. Unfortunately the workshop then found a lot, so that you let the TÜV man look over first without doing anything, in order to be able to estimate whether you want that at all. Unfortunately the criticized list was then quite long – accordingly a repair of 1000-1500 € was prophesied (of the mechanics But he wants to go over the bill again by tomorrow, whether you can “somewhere still do something” … because we both have the assumption that the old sweetheart, although only 270,000km, will only take part in the next 2 years anyway, without making much more money. My question would be now, if there is anything with the long list, where you can save something with a little skill by putting your own hand on it. Emphasis on “a little bit”, I am really not the craftsman before the m Mr. and don’t trust me with major repairs. – Brake caliper hi/li: heavy duty – Dust sleeve (lenk) right: ineffective – Track bar li/re inside: joint ejected – Front position lamp: without function – Direction indicator front left; lens damaged. – Support joint/lead joint front left bottom: ejected. – Triangular handlebar front left inside: rubber bearing damaged (must be completely replaced, he says) – Rear bumper: fixing lackh aft – Dust sleeve (drive shaft) front right outside: torn I’m afraid I can’t do anything myself except the turn signal on the left… :-/ The question now is whether it’s worth a ride for 1-2 years to plug in 1500€ again.

day together, today I need your help briefly. before a few weeks the car started to jerk during the ride. after I first thought about steering gears / servo steering, I checked my candles last weekend. to the engine: – 2.4 turbo with 193 hp – gas system is installed were 5x original volvo candles – built for 1.5 years, about 20,000 km ran. here the picture after the expansion. candle nr. 1 is completely burned down. https://data.motor-talk.de/…/previously-1-8971023 240380644574.JPGhttps://data.motor-talk.de/…/vor-2-4085480412888067314.JPG because I had no new candles to hand, I installed an old candle from the last change (bosch – see candle nr. 2.) the second candle (volvo) I screwed in for the burned nr. 1. the engine started super. after 5 km however started the jerking again during the ride. so I got 5x new original volvo candles for the turbo and built them this morning. here the picture after the expansion the candles that were now 3 days in the car: https://data.motor-talk.de/…/after-1-6724032011755817824.JPGhttps://data.motor-talk.de/…/after-2-8096641682161302121.JPG asks: – why is kerze nr. 1 (previously nr. 2) so oiled after 3 days? – why are the interiors 1-4 so clean and nr. 5 so brown smeared?https://data.motor-talk.de/…/after-nr-5-297477641154540314.JPGhttps://data.motor-talk.de/…/cable-8754308472746573478.JPG to explain: – the compression I had Saturday with g etestet. nr. 1-5 all ran out to 14. parallel: – since a few days the car loses cool liquid. times 1 liter on 5 kilometers during the trip. sometimes nothing. – sometimes the container is full in the evening and in the morning when I start to work completely empty (over night, during parking) – Saturday I gave pressure on the system to check where the water leaks –> result: it did not occur anywhere. at least not the 10 min. where the test ran. add: – four weeks ago 40 0ml oil from the servo container and the steering made funny noises. after filling the oil everything is fine again. now I’ll see how he does himself with 5 new candles and reports tonight. does someone have an idea what the volvo lacks?

Hi, in my car (95er/855/144/Automatik) the left footroom lighting (was also jammed by one of the previous owners) remains when I close the driver’s door. If I close the driver’s door a little more strongly, says light goes out. Are the first signs of age weakness of the MS or do the door have to be adjusted? Greeting P.S. Does anyone have a guide to the vaporizer exchange in German? The english version I found, but wanted to ask, if anyone already to the translation ng.