Hello, everybody, I drive a Volvo V 70 built in 2000. Within 3 weeks the following occurred: At a right turn the engine was running out. That didn’t even happen 3 times. I don’t have to stress that this suddenly also all servos fail. The engine could then be restarted. Workshop called – they got a tow truck and a rental car. Result: No error code readable. Relay (engine shut-off not yet in front of the series en, Krafstoffpumpenfilter nicht vermitt vermitt Ratlose der Werkstatt, Testfahrt gefahrt und Fehler nicht reproduziert We take over the car: After approx. 10 km of motorway exit ca. speed 40-50, 3rd gear: engine goes off! Back to the workshop: Want to get in touch with Volvo…Additional information: Idle speed approx.1000/min If you drive uncoupled to a traffic light to save the speed to 500 – 600 rpm to get back to 1000 rpm… Does anyone have an idea that over ‘there must be something readable in the memory’ or haste also enough fueled out?
Category: Honda Forum
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Purchase V70 2,5l
Hello, I would like to buy a V70 2.5, you find many with 106 kw, that seems to me a little bit of power for a car in size, especially if the good also should pull a 1000 kg WoWa. At the moment I drive a V40 with 100 kw, because the engine fits to the size of the car. Or does the V70 due to the 500cc more have a very good torque to get clear with the mass ? MfG
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Fill up additive tank
Hello, today I dared to fill up the additive tank. I bought the original set from Ebay for 40 €. Unfortunately nobody could describe it here and so I armed myself with my English HAYNES repair instruction under the car and looked at if this becomes a complicated thing. The Volvo set consists of a small canister with the additive, an empty overflow bottle and two hoses. The big thick hose with shut-off ha hn for the additive canister and the thin hose for the overflow tank. A quick coupling is attached to both hoses at the end. With the overflow hose this quick coupling is angled, the filling hose is straight. By this one also recognizes which connection which hose has to be connected. Thus everything was quite simple. The closing plugs are also designed as quick coupling, so press on it and pull off. (Attention at me came from the filling line a small M Then put the two hoses on the respective connections as described above until they snap in audible. Take the filling hose over the rear right wheel upwards. Open the lid and screw the shut-off valve attached to the hose onto the additive canister. Turn the canister on the head and open the tap. You can then see how the additive (a black-brown slightly ally liquid) runs through the hose into the tank. only when it was almost completely empty, some liquid came out of the overflow hose, so for me it was the indication that the container was full. Quick couplings solved, superfluous additive which was still standing in the hose, ran back into the canister and finished. Caps again plugged up and was good. Now still our good TEXA workshop computer connected, which has sc hon recognized from the control unit that the additive tank is full, but in the submenu then went again on additive tank RESET and finished. All in all, the whole action did not take 30 minutes and I would do it again and again as I now know how to do it. Hope I could give one or the other with this valuable tips. Unfortunately I didn’t have my camera with me, otherwise I would have captured one or the other in the picture. Greetings Rüdi Greeting Rüdi
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Brake scrubbers between 80 and 120 km/h
Hello. Bremming disc with my T5 (2009. 198tkm) are about 1500 km old. Hocjwermige disks which have already been changed due to rubbing. No emergency braking or other damage due to wrong use. Sizuation is as follows: with light braking between 80 and 120, especially in the range 100 leads to light rubbing. Stronger braking takes place without rubbing! I step slightly on the brake at 140 at first no restrictions until I come back to 110 or 100. Also under 75/80 k I’m afraid that it will drag me back to the new disc. Warinner free workshop that checked everything. All bearings photos etc. pp. Nothing found. My bolid was additionally yesterday the whole day in a Volvo workshop and was checked through. They also did not find anything that could indicate brake rubbing. Volvo mostly meant: if his car would rub qarten bis wirklich kompoöettes again. Then new lad bearings on at the front side and new brakes… Is there still a lot of expertise here: what would you do? Since topic is annoying and pulling… Pope
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Trailer coupling V70 2006
Good day, I would like to mount a trailer coupling on my V70. Now I have been researching here for some time, at rameder.de, at aukup.de, at Volvo, etc., but look less and less, especially because the information contradicts. Perhaps someone can clarify.Vehicle V70, 2,4D, 120kW, BJ 01/2006 no level control HSN 9101 TSN AAJArt of the coupling Removable to the rear results in a black brick at the rear. Or am I missing something? Detachable down seems optically best, but reduces the rear embankment angle, which is already critical for the loaded V70. Can anyone quantify the embankment angles for the different couplings?Electric set At this point it becomes really difficult for me. Rameder recommends vehicle-specific electric set with Summer as a turn signal failure control without software release from Volvo. Alternatively, a set for CAN bus is offered. the software release is required. Here in the forum it is reported that it could be done via the dashboard lights even without software release. Others say that everything is then possible except shut off the fog-finish lights and the return sensors. I don’t care about both. What’s right now? Is this perhaps dependent on the model year? Leting original parts installed directly at Volvo is honestly too expensive. You can rent a transporter every time cheaper. Greetings to Nippes
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Stand-up heating doesn’t want to start any more
Dear community, the heating of my ’04 V70 D5 was still uncomplicated. When I wanted to start the reactor last week, the familiar “fuel heating AN” flashed in the cockpit. After two seconds, the computer revised its specification to “fuel heating OFF”. Is the battery too weak (unfortunately three times empty) or is it on the controller? Do you have any suggestions for me before I go to the friendly one? Greetings & thanks to Eucher china-taxi
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Volvo S60 R Cooling water loss
Hello dear community, my S60 R has been losing cooling water lately. The cooling water tank has to be filled up from minimum, every 1000 km. This has been the second time today. I wanted to watch it for the first time. During parking I have seen today that in the area at the front left (from the driver’s seat), or if you are in front quite rightly so under the foglight form two small puddles. Leg glowing in with the flashlight I mean also trochente Wasserrinsel see Is there a hose running there? I would also prefer to go to a free workshop, you mean good idea or better the friendly with “R-price”? So about 2000 km driven. 2 x cooling water filled. Car drives normal, temperature normal, 41,000 km down, 4 years old and up to now waiting at Volvo. Thanks for your tips.
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No power after engine replacement
Moin Elchgemeinde My V70II D5 2004 163 HP had a timing belt tear at full drive, so engine scraped. I got a used (tump with head without attachments) in the bay and converted myself. (Bin just hobby screwdriver) After a test drive I found that the cart does not pull herring off the plate, makes less “turbo noises ??” and squirts really black off the back, and consumes about 3 l/100km. more. The BC however brings no error messages,the reader auc h not. I have attached all the attachments from the old engine, which ran until then perfectly. I have checked all pressure hoses, vacuum hoses, plug connections, injectors etc. for function and condition and am now at the end of my possible/skills. Maybe you still have some ideas about what this can be about. Greeting Harry819
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Unround idle – What are these hoses on my engine block?
Hello together, I had an undisturbed idle and had my Magneti Marelli throttle repaired at ecu.de. Then over the summer also calm and the throttle valve was unobtrusive. Now – at the cold temperatures – the speed fluctuations occur again. Since some parts were standing anyway, now already the spark plugs, the upper motor support and the air filter have changed. As a result the “clonk” noise at the load change has gone away and my consumption decreased by around 8%. The speed fluctuations are still there. If I uncouple at about 30 km/h and roll up to a traffic light, the speed drops to 500 revolutions and the car starts to shake, but does not go out. If I already dome at e.g. 50 km/h, the speed falls usually only to the desired 700. I telephoned with an employee of ecu.de, who made a quite competent impression. This of course excluded the throttle flap and said that it was event There is only the large fresh air hose in which I could not find a hole or a crack. However, right after the throttle flap there are 4 small hoses on my engine block (see picture). Can someone tell me what they are for? Some of them are porous at the ends, so the question is whether I can exchange them myself? I also read, d ass such speed fluctuations can lie on a clogged oil trap / crankcase ventilation, but so far it does not push out oil at any visible point. My oil consumption is about. 1 l/15,000 km. Then I have read that sometimes the air quantity meter is defective, but not immediately produced an entry in the error memory. Would my symptoms fit? I am grateful for every advice!
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Turbocharger and component in engine compartment…and presentation
Hello dear people. Very briefly to me before it gets serious… I bought my 5th Volvo about 6 weeks ago, because old love doesn’t rust;-)))) It all started in 1997 with a 264-string part, followed by 244 over 740 lpg, then first 850 and now, 6 years later, the story goes on. Unfortunately, there is no Volvo workshop in my area and also other good mechanics are scarcely saw… Therefore, I decided to take the car as far as it goes. euen… Last week I changed the cooler right away, because I already had oil in the water when I bought it. Yes, that was high poker but I had something against it from the front that would be due zkd. And as it looks like after the exchange and a thorough cooling circuit cleaning;-))) I put it on the right card… By the way, you get the cooler out without any problems… Battery and holder away and out with it;-)))) But I have a round of plastic can? In the case of a hose that goes from the bottom and is then connected up to the cover of the hose. Also 2 cables go into the “box”. This is then screwed to the right of the fan and I would like to know what this is, because the thing doesn’t look so tingling anymore. On the other hand, the turbo makes a strange constant hissing noise already when charging. This has to do with the consequence that this noise is constantly present from 2500 rpm. Power is there, but I have no comparison…. So, d as wass first to me and a bit something about the car… It’s about the t5 2,3 225ps:-))))) and I think about a name after… Greetings and thanks for answers, Andreas