Category: Honda Forum

Good morning, Since I don’t know any more, I try my luck here. My V70R 2.3 T5 Bj98 jerks if I hold the gas, so constantly want to drive a speed. This occurs only when the engine is warm, in cold condition he drives like a young god. Besides, he has a problem with the stationary gas when he is warm, sometimes even if I don’t save him (left foot brake right accelerator). The car was already in some workshop, the diagnosis was with all the engine control unit since the fifth cylinder fails when the engine gets warm, this was because the injector for the fifth cylinder is incorrectly controlled. When Volvo gave me the same diagnosis, I bought and plugged in a used control unit. The car now drove 100km impeccable. Now it drains again in the stand and jerks at constant speed, but only when it is warm. I am at the end with my Latin. were exchanged: engine control unit spark plugs and cabe l. Crankcase ventilation incl. oil trap injectors

The last one was the battery of my moose empty, the car could not even be opened with the remote control. Since the previous owner changed the door lock at some point, without making the corresponding key, I saw at first no chance to open my car without collateral damage (case room lock is not available) . Quite quickly I ended up here at the instructions, how to open a bonnet despite torn rope pull. There was then from “must be on lifting platform so that you can get there from below”, up to “blinker pull off” a lot of things, but nothing that really convinced me. I finally managed to solve my problem as follows: – At the front left between bonnet and indicator you can press down the holding tab of the blinker case with a long, thin screwdriver -> So you get out the blinker without having to open the hood – With a small, stable hook you get through the hole before which normal the flasher housing is located at the left hood lock. There either hook up at the cable pull or better at the lock itself and pull (must also fold on the right side, just press the lock in there and don’t pull) -> hood is open! The rest is clear: Either charge the battery or, like me, immediately a new one in . Everything palletti! So: should someone tear the cable pull of the bonnet lock… Actually, it’s quite easy the Hau Be also so to open. With a 850 it probably can not, because the blinker holder is different than with the V70I – I let myself be told. Hopefully sender or receiver of my FB never break… .

moin people have just set up the following. When I open the bonnet is directly right under the intake hose of the air filter, so attached to the radiator fans a valve where believe three slurries are attached. I think they go to the turbo and throttle flap as well as a plug. This part tackert. Since I did not do it before …if I pull the plug nothing happens. at least not in the stand….what is that part and is it defect ???

Hello friends, in order to anticipate the meaning or nonsense of a shift-way reduction, everyone has to define for themselves. I had a good idea! But I didn’t want to order a metal plate for 75$ from the USA. In the end it is no longer and no less. With a flex, a grinder, a drilling machine and a thread cutter you can build the plate yourself. Material expenditure maybe 5-10€. Time expenditure 2-3 hours. I have the dimensions of the original P I got a piece of stainless steel plate (80x80x10) in the coffee box. Yesterday I then made my way to work. Plate with the flex cut right, grade and uneven today on the grinder and put the holes on the stand drill. When drilling stainless steel is important to have good drills, diligently cool with oil and a little bit more. I have drilled in three steps (3, 4, 5; 3, 4, 6 and 3, 5, 8). Two M8 threads have to be cut into the plate. For this purpose the hole is drilled to 6,8mm and the thread is cut in 3 steps. The installation is described at youtube. Finally, I would say that it will also do a plate with 5mm thickness without deforming itself. Unfortunately, I don’t have the screw lengths in my head anymore, but I still carry them. I have photos at the beginning with saube The circuit is now crisp and felt more direct. Even if due to the shorter lever you need a little more pressure to insert the gears. As far as Janko

A beautiful good evening together, on my beloved elk there has been an unsightly spot on the underfloor since I took over it: the area around the end pot. The rear bumper holders can almost be removed with the toothbrush and the exhaust suspension is kept together only by the rust – so far no problem, the places are probably the classic par excellence, as regards rust in the 850s. The bumper holders are easy to recreate for small money. The more serious problem, however, is the following: even the rear longitudinal beam above the exhaust has not been spared from the rust! It is stable, you can hardly scratch something and you can not push it twice, but nevertheless, more or less superficially there is a good trace of rust on it. I would very much like to deal with the whole thing in a timely manner and the rust spots sometimes on front man b But now I would need your help in two places, for that I would be very grateful: 1) Does anyone happen to know if there is still to buy the guttered exhaust holder? Volvo number is 3547625, unfortunately there is nowhere – the only thing to find are repair kits for the silencer side, but the underfloor suspension probably falls off at some point… 2) What is really important: what do I do with my longitudinal support? In any case, the option is not available: leave it as it is or still drive down and is good. Would the car like to keep for a long time, and as far as I can see, this is the only place that could become critical for a short or long time. Could one do such things like dry ice, glass, sandblasting? Or rust transducers? Or mikesanders’n? And above all, to which place could one turn with it? Body construction? I thank you very much in advance for any Help me, I would find it just too bad if the Volvo would go into the krätsch in the long term because of such an annoying problem and unfortunately I am only little familiar with the subject of bodywork so far. In the appendix still two pictures from below. Many greetings, Nikolai