Category: Honda Forum

Hello Have a Volvo 850 bj 96 , 20 . 126 hp engine runs only on 4 cylinders and has the injection nozzles clamped gradually and notice that on the 4th cylinder does nothing , , ignition is ok ignition spark is there it can also be the injection nozzle ? and if yes how do I get this removed and then installed again overings when I speedy runs the 4 cylinders again sets with but again from control lamp Ladder probe lights ??? who can give me tips thanks i n forward lg Swedes steel

Hello, just ask me which ignition coils I should install? To the problem: My engine runs when it is cold very bad and starts badly, moreover it is extremely fat current consumption from 30-50 liters to 100km. My ignition coils are full of oil, so also the cylinder head. Is this perhaps the cylinder head seal? Well, I think that the ignition coils cause the engine problems. I already ordered new spark plugs, ignition coils original are Bosch, which are at knap p 35-40 Euro however too expensive. Does anyone have experience with the topic or tips which one can/should build? MfG Dome.

Moin, unfortunately, the moose clacked quite violently this noon and I need your advice. For a few weeks he has had minimal side noises, which I had taken in the way already at many P80 and therefore did not worry about. Today at noon this was really extreme. Before that he always ran very clean and absolutely quiet, as I was confirmed today at noon. If one spontaneously steps on the gas or a load change (coupling) is present there is a metallic rattle or. I had always thought of the flex tube (resonance) because the outer tissue was damaged. This was also on the list in March, but was always tight. The recording was from today’s noon and the engine was in the border area between cold and operating temperature. That means: I had just lunch break, drove 15km of highway and then when starting after a three-quarter hour there was this noise. Before the question on oil level is regularly checked (currently weekly) and the last oil change is 2800km (at km level 283000). Oil consumption is minimal, i.e. 150ml to 1000 (if at all so much). Of course I have big worries and if it is necessary according to your opinion, I can leave the car if necessary. I am simply at the moment at a loss and insecure. Not that the moose has a bearing damage. B5244s2 almost 286,000km Edit: Video comes equal is only too big

Moin moin, my 850er has some problems with his NSL and the TÜV is at the door. She registers rather sporadically to very rarely. Switch in the dashboard is i.o. fuse is i.o. lamp is i.o. 12V arrive at the version. I thought it might be because the relay does not allow enough power, but did not find any in the driver’s footroom on slot 7. Is probably only a relay for front… trailer coupling is therefore not the cause as for vi Ele here. Don’t really know what to do … Lg

Hello, Recently we had to find out that after about 2 days of standstill the battery was completely empty. At first we thought of a damaged battery and switched it off. Unfortunately this was not the reason. Now we measured times and see there, in the standstill and all doors to flow a current of about 2A. If one pulls the fuses 6 and 15 then the current drops to 0A. For us, therefore, the offender was to be found in the circuit central locking and/or interior lighting. Searching in this area led us to the door lock of the driver’s side. If you separate the wire harness of the left door, then the error current immediately drops to 0A. Next we removed the door lock. We wanted to see if you can find an electrical error here. And here we are stuck. The lock is equipped with a plastic hood. This would have to be dismantled in order to get to the electrics. That’s what we fail to do. How can you get this hood off? The second way would be to install a new (used) lock. If we do, do the old keys still fit? or can you adjust the new lock to the old keys? For every help we are grateful. With kind greeting