Category: Honda Forum

Hello together my great Volvo S70 built in 1998 presents me again with a big annoying challenge. The central locking works perfectly with the remote control, all doors open and close excellently. However, for a few days the tank cover can no longer be unlocked or opened. In addition, the ZV can be opened and closed with the mechanical key at the driver’s door, but only the driver’s door opens and closes. With the FB opens and sc The fuses have been checked and are all in order. Have I missed any? How can the tank cover be opened and closed? Thank you in advance. Greetings from Switzerland Gianni

After I briefly dismantled the battery mass cable last week in winter to measure whether any consumer sucks my battery empty, I had to find out that the on-board computer does not make any display in any switch position (no time either). The red LED for the frost warning still works, and everything else works. Does anyone have an idea what’s going on with the display from BC? Thanks and greeting from schub1

Volvo first had the typical hollow noise and power loss during the motorway ride, as if there was no ignition, or gasoline more, but it went away at full throttle again. It only sporadically occurred, cars ran normally for days and suddenly he didn’t jump any more. After a day standing, the engine rattered for a few seconds, then only organs without jumping, can be left standing anyhow, for a long time, etc. Petrol pump runs, fuel splashes out of the valve d he rail, ignition coil replaced, distributor looks good, engine ran 100TSD KM. Benzifilter replaced, which was actually in it since 1997… OBD2 read out with Artlink400: no errors stored in the control unit, but injection bench 1 only 3.5% and now, after weeks only OL. keys wg immobilizer for second key tried. Petrol pressure regulator this engine (HSN 9101 TSN 740 125KW) did not in the rail I am at a loss…

Hello, for 12 years I drive an LW with 144hp, 10V petrol with engine year 96. There were already some things to do, unfortunately I am now faced with a mystery. I drive the car currently not so much. It started a month ago. Regardless of the load range there were quite sporadically (always after 3 km after starting) very small rucklers. When we drove then on the way from the Baltic Sea home, it was on the 500km about 20 rucklers, sometimes longer, sometimes shorter, with heap on Lan At home I looked at the spark plugs, which were down. I changed them all, as always for material, which is not cheap but not too expensive. After that I had a little jerker, so it was clear that it was not (only) on the candles. Finally I stayed early on Saturday. I drove into a village without a load and suddenly the engine went out. During that time, ALL lights lit up in the instrument cluster. m Stopping I tried to start. The engine might run for a second and went off again. After I had opened the hood and stood around for a short time, it went on again and I drove 10 km home without any problems. There it is now. Had turned on again yesterday and after research here in the forum tested the following: Voltage on battery with switched off motor: 12.8 V Voltage on battery with running motor: 14 V When switching to AC: 0V Have in the engine compartment with running motor Wrapped on various cables, wobbled on the control unit, wobbled on the fuses and relays…without results. The rail also has fuel on the auto valve when I press on it. Does anyone have any idea what I can do to advance the diagnosis? Greetings Robert

Good evening together, that’s probably the most interesting thing for the TDI drivers among us. I recently got an in-house Audi document about the Volvo 850 TDI. I was just interested in what the competition thought about the fact that their engine was installed in a 850 and how they argued it internally in front of their employees. I had to grin almost all the way when I read it. Especially with the Swiss registration number on the Audi on the last picture. Here are the photos of the document. I look forward to your reactions. To the moderators: if I violate the forum rules with this thread, of course I delete it immediately.

And on the 3rd day immediately the first pan… The oil lamp flickers, then goes completely on. 3min later shortly before the house door it jerks and the car goes off. Has then also ruckelig until not at all started. Coolant in the container completely empty and from the oil filler it squirted out. Water filled up, car runs out. oil lamp. The question, the weigh do not go out after the car has no water anymore? I don’t understand it… Temp indicator was normal, oil level is also ti p top. Hope that doesn’t cause any consequential damage. Head gasket was first re-made in dezember and then the system was pulled off and everything was dense car is now in the workshop, down from the cooler package front it drips out somewhere below. But the question with the going out I still ask myself… Someone ne idea ?

Hello, I’m new here in the forum. Some know me from the polotreff. I bought a Volvo 850 as a limousine. EZ 12.92 Model year 93. Was thought as a cheap winter car, has now rather slipped into the category restoration Now to my question: As with almost all old cars were on the radio once again real pros! I bought the self help book for the 850 already. But from the schematics I don’t get quite smart. Volvo probably also has no system in the choice of its cable colors but rather a colorful mess…. On my car, the radio plug was cut off of course, but it still hangs on two cables that were not used. So I can reconstruct that. Doesn’t help me just because there are no adapters for it and the cable colors don’t match the colors in the schematics either. And then I would only have speakers in the dashboard. The speakers in the doors also have cables. h cut off and then extended to the radio. Why? I don’t know. What was cut off there? I don’t know. According to the schematic, even more cables would have to be on the plug that is missing. I got the radio, a SC-805 and the plugs with about 20cm cable from an S70 from the scrap. I go according to the cable colors match the colors of the cables on a plug with those of the speaker cable from the passenger footroom. But on the plug is still a thinner yellow-black This is not available in the car and not in the schematic. If I take the second plug and compare the cable colors with the plug that still hangs on two cables, I can connect everything except two cables. However, the cross-sections are partly different and the colors also slightly (other nuances). On the wire harness vehicle side a red and a white cable remain. On the plug from the S70 two green-brown cables. Does anyone have an idea of how to get this correctly to the photos of the chaos are attached. Questions about light width regulation better in your own topic? Thank you very much for your help! LG Axel