Category: Honda Forum

Hello dear community, I’m new to talk and new to volvo. Consequences of the problem I have: I bought myself a volvo v70 10v automatic gasoline from 1998 with 213,000 km. The vehicle ran ahead, and a week after the purchase quite normal, then after I had a defective glare lamp and an electric wheelchair crane, including wiring, which was developed by the previous owner, appeared on the journey afterwards a very illogical problem for me. the light switched off, and a “loud” relay was to be heard, the car only jumped on again when I turned the light switch to 0 position. Then in the engine room it smelled a bit like unburnt petrol. The car also now only runs when the light switch stands at 0, as soon as I press a flasher, the light or a window lifter the car goes off and this loud relay (I found out it is the light relay) is to be heard with 3 circuits, just like it is who n I only turn on the ignition without starting the engine, then activate the light switch. In addition, the windscreen wiper moves whenever the problem arises. I suspect a mass error, however, don’t know how to find it if it is one and doubt if it makes sense to have a workshop measured for hours. Of course, it is my problem, but in addition, that the car in Switzerland is at my temporary workplace and will still be transferred to DE. would like to. I would exclude the lima, because the symptomatic is there even with not running motor. Does any of you know such a problem? Rejoice me about every answer/help/tip. Thank you in advance. Greeting tobi

Moin in the country, a few weeks ago I bought a beautiful V70, EZ 2000. Currently the original radio is still in it. I would like to install another, more modern device. In the shaft probably a double DIN radio should be installed. For me it would be important that the radio still has a CD player, a USB port, which can read format AAC and can connect to my i-Phone via Bluetooth, as well as a hands-free device should be there. I have seen on the Internet that there is also a splitter that uses the signal of the VHF antenna for the DAB+ reception. If someone can recommend this, it might be interesting for me. I’m not sure if I need a radio with touchpad/large display. This would be interesting only if the map is transferred from the mobile phone Navi to the display. If the NHF does not have a DAB+, then I’m sure if I have to have DAB+, I don’t want to install an additional antenna. I don’t need a device with display/touchpad. What do you have installed? Can you give me a purchase recommendation? It doesn’t necessarily have to be a new model, I also like to buy a used device at Ebay. Thanks in advance for your support.

Hy, what do you have for experience in terms of cost of a cylinder head overhaul ? E.g. cylinder head honing (clear) valves regrind, new valves (original or replica/which?) Also possible. piston, ode rnur die Pistonringe ? ect. What should you do immediately, or which replica manufacturer can you take if you want to do everything right and durable. Thanks in advance. mfg Motor B5245T from 12/99 193PS according to Volvo, but according to dieverser lists and AUssage 200P S has. I don’t know what Volvo is doing here, and / or does wrong information?

Hello guys, I drive a Volvo C70 from 2001 with the 2.0t engine 163ps. My gas system is from Prins with the valve protection additive. The gas system has about 200 000km down… the C70 285000km. Now to my problem, sometimes in the stand as soon as the switch to gas go my speeds into the basement and the engine runs very rough and restless. It fights to stay. Has happened already that it did not take more gas, because it only helps to switch to petrol. Later we During the ride it usually works again. The funny thing is that it doesn’t always do that. There are also days when the gas system runs perfectly. If the problems does then always when the engine is warm and I then restart it. What I noticed is sometimes the one in idle when the engine switches on gas runs funny. The car vibrates easily and the engine run does not sound clean either. As soon as I switch on petrol everything is quiet and the engine runs like a 1. It also comes before the one stutters on gas while driving and no more gas takes on. Usually this is only at a speed range below 3000. Switching down a gear helps then always. My workshop, specialized in gas system especially from Prins, doesn’t know any more. They typed first on spark plugs, injectors clogged or filter again. My spark plugs are now new (originally 80€ Volvo) I cleaned the injectors with 2stroke oil (after the Fil) and my filters were changed before 40 000km and before 20 000km again one of the two. GasFilter blue was in the service booklet. Do you have any ideas what could help? Should I change all filters again or could that have something to do with the control unit from the gas system? Would you be really happy if you could help me. MfG Sebastian

Hello together, with my S70 BJ 1997 the rear brake discs/blocks, as well as the brake calipers and the cheeks of the hand brake were renewed for the last Tüv. After the change I drove now approx. 1000 km without interference. On the weekend after a ride of approx. 40 km a roaring, grinding noise appeared on the rear axle. Couldn’t detect anything by appearance – on the wheels was also no excessive heating, or for example smell of rotted brakes fixed ar. On the way home the noise was then gone again, to suddenly reappear after a distance of approx. 40km. So the whole thing seems to have something to do with the heating up of the wheels/brake system, and with a certain temperature expansion there is obviously a mechanical problem – something is beginning to grind. I guess now that the workshop did something wrong when the new brake parts were installed – I also read that obviously the hand brake a large amount of time. the V/S/C-70 family should be, and under certain circumstances can literally “explode”. If it were a wheel bearing, I think the grinding noise would be permanently present. Did anyone of you ever have a similar problem, and can give a tip?

Hello, I have a new problem for you. It has already occurred several times. The first time about 2 months ago. The last time today. It always started so that it starts to run and jerk while driving (with a petrol engine you would say Ignition drop-outs). If you then stay still he jerks strongly, runs extremely rough goes out or runs as long as the Lambda lamp lights up. As soon as the lamp lights up, it runs normally, it also goes after some This has happened 3 times so far, but today in the morning he sawed up and down in the idle in the stand and ran round. Between the first times there were a few weeks, but now this problem occurs more frequently, also that he only runs in the short term, but then stops again. If you leave out the codes now you get EFI-714 Fuel Shut Off Valve signal and EFI-715 Fuel Regulation. If someone has an idea about what to do. I would be happy to have an answer. Mfg Valentin

Hello, a few days ago my Volvo lit up the coolant level indicator after a very short distance, the engine was not warm yet, when it was warm, the indicator went out again and I was able to check if it had enough water. In hot condition the water was to maximum. I then looked up next day in cold condition and there was water to minimum, or maybe slightly below, so I filled up to the maximum. Now the Coolant level indicator on as soon as it is warm and the water level is above the maximum. Photo_01 is in the cold state photo_02 in the warm state, the coolant level indicator also lights up. The temperature indicator does not rise (see photo_03). Should the water in the cold or hot state be between minimum and maximum? Engine type: B5244T

Hey on my part, My Italo has taken the worst place. In my underground garage. The boat just doesn’t start anymore, sounds tormented and the exhaust gases press out of the open oil cover during the start attempt. So the car won’t get rid of its exhaust gases. I wanted to unscrew the downpipe to see if the cat may have disintegrated but I can’t get the tube off the turbo. Heat plate is gone and the 3 screws on the downpipe to the turbo. Did I miss anything? Inter It is essential that when I manually press the shaft at the Wastegate the car starts. It only runs with 500 revolutions and like a sack of nuts but it runs. That speaks more for the turbo….as if the shaft was tight. The next step would be to decompose the intake hose to see if the shaft can be rotated from the turbo on the suction side. Does anyone else have an idea of what I can check? As I said, the car is stuck in the underground garage. (A pull-off from the charging pressure hose does not bring any change. Fresh air it seems to get but only its exhaust gases will not get rid of.)