Hello I drive only once a week, 2x almost 20km. otherwise the V70 D2 (bj 2015 model 2016, approx. 150tkm) is standing unfinished. the battery seems to be quite unloaded after a week, because with a stop on the road (and also at the stop back home again) the motor continues (S/S is on). the battery voltage (clamped) is after a week about 12.3V. is the battery down? or pulls the FZ so much current while standing around? and makes it a difference whether the FZ from is closed or not? (at the last time I had charged the battery once when I came home. so it was full a week before.) speaking of, I haven’t found the second battery for the S/S yet. anyway, it’s not there, as illustrated in the operating manual. did the 2016 model no longer have a second battery? I would jam the battery for a week, but that’s all that’s necessary because you should do that on the minus terminal — and it’s under the rear coveru ng. VG
Category: Honda Forum
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Xenon burners change at the V60 – but how?
Moin together, I thought that I could easily change the xenon lamps at my V60 Ocean Race on weekends “just” (the old ones hardly bring light), but far missing. I did not even find a starting point, how to get to the headlights, without dismantling half the front apron or something similarly complicated. Maybe I am quite wrong and there is a simple solution that I just don’t see. I added two pictures so that you can see, w I’m really grateful for ideas on how to change the lamps without a visit to the friendly one. Greetings Hagber
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midues V60 D6
soo…the transfer is getting closer and closer, then I start the thread to the car in the last few days arrived the first “accessories” parts, different charging adapters (CEE red on Schuko, CEE blue on Schuko (missing in the picture) and Type 2 on Schuko). Thus, power should be available virtually everywhere for the V60. Which registrations with the different charging providers (e.g. Chargefoxx) makes sense will be shown over time. If everything goes well, the transfer takes place on Saturday.
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Installing used ECUs. Learning to use ICM CEM DIM
Hello dear forum! I have a specific problem and a general question about it. In short, in my XC70 II from 2008 with D5 engine according to current (admittedly vague) diagnosis, three ECUs were broken at once. Namely, the instrument cluster (DIM), the infotainment (ICM) and the central ECU (CEM). Can be even more but this can only be tested after these three have been exchanged. Computing should be seen with workshop costs of 3000-500€ symptoms as follows a us: During the ride the infotainment goes out and the instrument cluster reports errors like parking aid defective, brakes defective, airbags defective, ABS defective and more. Short time also total failures of the AI. Meanwhile everything works again completely normal and without messages. Reading the error codes results in 3 DinA4 pages with over 70 (mostly) communication errors. Guessless as I am, I would now like to exchange the ECUs for used ones and let them learn from Volvo n. Here are my questions: Is this possible and if so with which ECUs? and is there someone with similar history and a possible other diagnosis? Thank you for your help and opinions! If you need more infos just ask…
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Purchase advice 850 R
Hello! After my 95er 854 2.5 10V is slowly too small for family growth reasons (and the family combi Audi A6 4B already enjoys a longer workshop visit with control unit problems again) I came due to an accident over a 96er 850 Turbo, only 2 previous owners, the last is allegedly a lot abroad and does not need it anymore. Stands at an Opel dealer on the ass of the world, is written as Turbo Classik (according to rear sign, front spoiler, rims and interior equipment abe r a R). Has automatic (yes, I like, even if I know that it doesn’t last forever – with my 854 she dies with converter problems also for 5-6 years and a good 70,000 km quite slowly). Supposedly the car has 278,000 km. Do I have to turn off – or does it not work any more at 6/96? Climate should work. 850R rims are there, the tires in order, interior in the pictures beautiful. Has allegedly always been regularly served there. Supposedly everything works except ABS/Tracs lamp. The dealer said something about errors in the ABS pump according to the error code. I type on the control unit as with my 854 (but they do not shine permanently but sporadically). Please for input regarding the possible repair frame should cost 2,800 eggs (in my opinion a fair price – with us the prices are usually a little higher). What I like is that the car is not praised as R or rare or full equipment. sounds useful (already clear, 19 years old, automatic, turbo, something can get broken quickly, but as Audi teaches me: even with newer cars it works).
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Speed doesn’t go down right now
Moin, just in advance, does not come to my computer at the moment and can only get in via the app here, search me there misstatement. The following problem. I drive completely normal and want to switch up from any gear to the next, the speed does not fall off when uncoupled but increases for a short time. If I completely uncouple to stop the speed remains also short increased, but then sinks down to the normal idle speed. This phenomenon occurs only if it is dr outside is very warm, over 30 degrees as it is today. I know the summer is over from tomorrow, but I’m interested in where it might be. Greetings Flo
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Timing belt question.
Hello all, I changed the Zahan belt myself 15000 km ago. I ordered the parts from different jellyfish: turning rollers Skandix (INA), spanner Skandix (original part), WaPu Volvo original dealer, timing belt Skandix (Conti). Recently I tested the timing belt and found that a little fat is cast out of the tensioning roller. The plastic bearing protection on the roller seems to be, but has lost a little fat. The fat has become On the engine block, the timing belt doesn’t seem to have gotten anything off, everything is dry. I had turned off the engine several times before, i.e. up to 6000 min-1. The question: can it be that the grease is cast out because of this? Are the components on the engine really not speed-proof? In the BA stands for the engine 20V 170 ps, continuous speed 6200 allowed, short term 6700. Do I have to change the belt and roll again? I don’t hear any noises from the roll, which are on a mange With the exception of the dashboard (dried, bent, torn), the car is technically top in shot.I put about 3000 in repairs and parts and do not want to fail everything because of a part of 40 euros. Has not run 190000 and always been well maintained…….
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Engine oil for D5
What is the exact designation of the Castrol 0w30 engine oil with Volvo release? SLX or EDGE? Didn’t find anything in the SuFu. And: Is this an embarrassing situation when you bring your engine oil yourself for inspection? Before I do that, I will put the WS before the choice: either to calculate a decent price for the engine oil or it will be brought by me. It simply can’t be that I pay EUR 25 per litre and in free trade I get it for a third. Even if you can afford such an XC90, it doesn’t mean that you can be ripped off like that.
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Control times camshaft positioning B5252S
The crankshaft is aligned with the marking on the gear wheel as well as with the marking behind the belt disc on the nose of the oil pump housing, the transmission-side grooves in the camshafts curtailed. If I now put on the timing belt, I can turn the motor less than a quarter of a revolution on the crankshaft until it blocks. The camshafts do only half a tur per crankshaft rotation. Is there a more reliable and less dangerous method for my motor than to solve this via try and error? A friend said that I might only have to overcome the compression in the cylinder, i.e. turn at the KW with more force. However, I have no desire to bend the valves. Now I have found a few cases in which the B5252S is the alignment of the valves. but unfortunately no solution to my problem. However, the local Volvo dealer does not know this phenomenon and according to his own statement uses the same camshaft locking tool for all 850 gasoline engines. For tips I would be really grateful. Greetings, kc.
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Geartronic makes kittens
V60 D3 GT EZ 05/11 vehicle has now run 40,000 km so far without problems and to complete satisfaction. Recently, a little unmotivated switching of the GT and an “extreme grinding” of the individual gears with high speeds with stronger gas giving, means that when giving gas first the speed goes up without something important happens. Then comes thrust, the speed stays high and then goes back slowly and the vehicle switches down again. The vehicle drives This is quite unharmonious and the whole thing wasn’t at the delivery of new cars. Reinforced this occurs after the first inspection in May. There was probably a new software for the transmission control. An audition at the delivered: “There we can do nothing”. As I said, the whole thing was not before and I consider it a lack. If this is not otherwise possible, they should change the whole transmission unit or play the old software on it again. I don’t care, but I don’t care. so we have no fun at all on the car. Gives experience values on the topic Geartronic, tough response behavior, faults, warranty cases, etc. Thanks for Tips