Hello I have the following problem. We had removed the engine. After about 2 weeks the problem began. When the engine starts running at some point all control lights start to light up. They then go out again at some point. And that always in the change. I switched off error memory. Solenoid valves in hydraulicakregat no voltage, brake light switches defective or interrupted, pedal displacement device defective short circuit on mass or plus circuit, warning light interruption or short circuit. Can not also solve it I checked all the connections again, but I didn’t find anything. Did one of you have any idea what that could be? Because we can’t drive with it because the battery is not charged when the control lights are on.
Category: Honda Forum
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T-5R, snoring from the direction of the machine, as well as no full thrust.
Moin, regarding my T-5R, I am standing on the hose at the moment. If I start the car in the morning, everyone is quiet except that the hydros clack a bit. After a short time a strange “snoring” starts, which comes from the direction of the automatic transmission. But I switch from P to R or D everything is quiet. Only in idle it says P and N snorts. What could this be?! The second question, the Bock does not bring full power. My 2.0T is noticeable researcher to work. He builds himself kei Is already shameful when a 325i is sawn… and when a tacho is 200 at work. Normally he would have to bring 235 loose according to Schein. Thanks for the help ;-).
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Engine goes off
Hello professional world, after changing the cylinder head gasket, my Volvo (B5252) jumped immediately… in order to run more and more restless during the test drive and to stop after about 3 km. No start possible/not started any more. After a long search crankshaft sensor replaced with new part. Volvo jumped immediately, then s.o. remained in the same place. ADAC, towing! Apparently a lot of unburnt petrol got into the exhaust. Anyway now still burns The Lambda probe display. I run out of ideas. Does anyone else have suggestions?? C.M. Oh yes, camshaft sensor was replaced by new part after damage to the head.
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expand seat and remove seat cover
Hello brothers and sisters in the spirit. My seat cover has been torn or opened in the area of the seam (seat area) (I can’t judge that yet, since it’s still installed) It’s a V70 1998 – automatic machine with seat heating and the beautiful (grey gray) “Edelvelourssitzen”. (yes – you’ve read correctly … EDEL-Velours! … not everyone has done this :-). Someone once told me that this is such a “hot shit” … that … well … probably the one … Now I want to pull off the seat cover and sew it from below. Here are my questions. 1. If I completely expand the seat, I will probably have to separate plug connections that are relevant for the airbags. If I pull them off – then expand the seat and drive it without a seat for a week and then install it again and plug in all plugs – then everything is fine again, or any error messages stop, respectively. Lights that I can’t get out again? (Battery will of course be clamped off early (before seat expansion). 2. Somewhere I have read that the seat covers are glued with the seat heating – I could not sew them from below. Can you confirm this or deny it? 3. Does anyone have a leaning for the “seat pull-off” if necessary? 4. Why can’t I find a single suitable seat or cover in the bay for 1 1/2 years? have been?! Normally everything is courted there. Alcantara is almost omnipresent :-). Or…has any of you still got the seat covers (only seat) of driver and passenger seat? Greeting from Münster Ralf
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Climate, heating, ventilation spins / now with error codes
Hello together… Had already written that my air conditioning system is not running very well. Have now finally had the errors read out and deleted. The errors in detail… -B1 1-3-2 channel air sensor driver side -B1 1-3-4 channel air sensor passenger side -B1 235 valve switch for convection air -B1 325 valve switch for convection air active for too long -B1 411 blower motor mech. or too blocked by overcurrent (by new replaced / preresistance also) -B1 414 barrier air sensor driver side (extended) t and cleaned) -B1 417 Static air sensor passenger side (expanded and cleaned) The errors were all deleted, but it didn’t bring anything. The Werkstattt tried it again with another control panel, but it didn’t do anything. I wrote behind the errors above, which we already did. Unfortunately, I can’t classify the first four mistakes at all. Someone an idea?
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Buy XC60 Gen. 1 or Gen. 2
Hi together, I want to get an XC60… now I have 2, I think, good offers: Model: XC60 D4 Momentum AWD Geartronic Price: € 23.990 First registration: 08.2017 Kilometer level: 182,000 km Power: 190 HP Model: XC60 D4 AWD Kinetic Geartronic Price: € 20.990 First registration: 04.2015 Kilometer level: 150,000 km Power: 181 hp The most important thing for me is maximum durability… I like the 2017er outside better and is also the “new”… but has already 180.000 km… On the other hand, it costs “only” 3,000 euros more… But in the 2015er you know what you buy. With good care 500,000 kilometers usually no thing… What do you think? I’m really hard to decide between the two… Ciao, Rains
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Start-stop automatic Volvo V60
Hello, the Volvo V60 BJ 2015 from an acquaintance has problems with the start-stop automatic. This only works sporadically, despite usually longer rides. The Volvo dealer has tested the battery and alternator and now recommended to exchange both costs 1263€(!!!). So far there were no problems with the battery or alternator, apart from just start-stop. Until the saved fuel, at the cost is back in, the car can probably be 20J without start-stop Wei The following e-mail was added: “The vehicle battery should be replaced, capacity is no longer 100% given, therefore the start/stop system no longer works reliably. Furthermore, the charging voltage of the alternator is no longer in perfect condition, recommendation is to replace the alternator as discussed.” Test result: According to the criteria of the test, the generator function is not prescribed. moderate. End the test, replace the charge controller and then re-run the test from the front to see if the error has been fixed. If the charge controller has already been replaced and the test indicates an error in the generator function, select this alternative. Required battery charge voltage (V): 13.50; 13.50; 13.50; 13.70; 14.10; 14.50; 14.90; 14.90; Measured battery charge voltage (V): 13.45; 13.50; 13.10; 14.50; 14.95; 14.90; TEST REPORT =BATTERIE TEST= FLUES SIG-BATT SOC: 12.76V WEIGHTED: 760EN MEASUREMENTS: 505A DEFECT/REPLY BATT.-STAND: 66% LADE-STAND: 100% How would you judge the overall situation? As I said, so far there were no problems with the battery. Unfortunately, I can’t do anything with the measured values. Thank you.
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Experience with V60 1 D6 Plug-in Hybrid
So now it’s time and I can report how the consumption of my V60 hybrid develops in the different operating conditions. Should anyone still drive a V60 hybrid I would be very grateful for various consumption data for comparison purposes. First trip yesterday in super weather (dry, sunshine and 4 degrees plus), city traffic with winter tires, daytime driving light, air conditioning and radio (corresponds to my previous normal driving mode in Tiguan). 37 km driving distance in mode Pure ,Verbra uch 9,3 kWh corresponds to a cost share of 1,67 € at 0.18 €/kW. This is not the actual consumption. This should have been at approx. 8 kW. Charging time at 16 amp connection 3 hours and 12 minutes. From the past I know from my own experience with Volvo C30 electrics and Opel Ampera that when charging the battery charge losses. These were here about 10-15%. I will soon, if I succeed in the system, drive the battery completely empty. According to Volvo, the hand of the well-known battery capacity of 11.2 kW should then be able to determine exactly the charge loss. I am already very excited about the consumption in hybrid mode and the pure diesel consumption in operation Save.
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Question about the turbo-feeling of newbie
Moin. Never had diesel or turbo, so I’m asking a perhaps unusual question. In the test drive with the V70 2.4 D5, I had expected more pull, and above all a noticeableness of the turbo, but there was nothing. Question: Is that normal like this? Take a Saab 93-3 1.9 TDI short drive and Seat Leon 2.0 TDI, there was enough torque, and before all one clearly noticed when the turbo came. Therefore, I am maximum irritated at the test drive of the turbo completely not too And the two diesels that I was allowed to drive for a short time had only 150 hp, the V70 had 205… I read now that these are rather comfortable long-distance vehicles, and I miss the comparison, as previous petrol driver without turbo, but shouldn’t there be a certain “pull” used? At the vehicle one more thing is repaired, then I buy the, and I’m not sure if the turbo is broken or if it’s just like that with the cars…
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Many error messages
Recently come error messages in display (tacho). There are becoming more and more. SRS – maintenance urgently ESC – maintenance required headlights defective (the curve light also no longer works) City savety defective … must I now be afraid that the suddenly slows down or something ??