Hello, again a brake fee. I bought a V70 2.5T AWD EZ 11/04 in June with 104.500 km and am so happy. Unfortunately, shortly after the purchase I found that the brakes are rubbing at the front. Therefore I bought from Q11 brake discs and blocks. There were no “billigteile”, manufacturer of the discs is Brembo. In general I have had relatively good experiences with Q11 over the last years. After the change the scratching was almost completely gone. The scratching in the back became worse and worse, until today I changed the discs and blocks in the back at 112.000km (hand brake pads, by the way, were not solved and absolutely OK). Now that it is no longer rubbing in the back, you can see that it is rubbing in the front left again. Should I now change the discs all 7.500km? Are the original brake discs so much better? At the XC I read that there were apparently problems with different tightening moments. to the V70 too? Did anyone have a similar problem? Thank you and many greetings baierto
Category: Honda Forum
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700 KM and a heater richer 😉
At 3:45 o’clock my Odysee started to Venlo to unlock the heater. Thanks to the bad weather (would have been able to come a week later) and the blocking of the A40 took 4hours and 30 minutes. Thanks to the overburdened RTIS (woltle again and again to the A40) I was then able to find the way by compass locating, through land and villages, the way alone On site I then gladly used the coffee. 30 minutes later and a praise for the well-kept V70 I could then d This was much more pleasantly designed by the way new maximum speed record 238 km/h according to tacho (downhill and climatic ;-). 2h,45min for 350KM were then very fixed and the engine / DPF are again free of deposits. Volvo in Germany will probably make an action again in October for 410 Euro unlocking the heater. I saved then nevertheless still 90 Euro. MFG gt-201
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Which amperage number for battery
Hey together, I have a question. My car battery is over, I have to get a new one. However, I have a question for you. My car battery in the Volvo S60 is an original from Volvo and there is 520A on it. However, since I don’t want to get any more originals but I have a cheaper one at ebay now the following problem, there are batteries with 500A or 540A but no 520s. If I am looking for a battery at Ebay or other car shops with the key numbers m ir the 540A 60AH recommended … However, as said in mine is a 520A inside. Which should I take there ? Make 20A a lot out ? Up or down ? I drive a Volvo S60, Built 2001 ,2,4L, 170PS Thanks for your help LG Andy
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Newbie Question “How do I get rid of this care???”
Again a new one 😉 After I’ve been annoyed for the last 4 years with extremely many, sometimes also very high invoices for auto repair, I made 2 decisions. First of all I take care of the “machable” things myself. I drive for tyre change, oil change (will be made at a time) and reasonable repairs in a self-help workshop. So I have already made repairs on the exhaust and also brake (coverings, discs VA and HA), brake sc I have to praise the self-help workshop at the B2 in Leipzig. So far I have always got all the tools needed there, always good tips and help and fair prices! But back to the point, I have long thought about how I can realize my idea of a reliable, long-lasting, well-to-repair, economical diesel family combi. Somehow you get there quite quickly and time and again to the V70 D5 😉 And I bought one yesterday!!! Pick it up next Tuesday and then the official presentation with pictures takes place. After my “wrapped around” here now my real question: The previous owner has been super careful and caring with his elk. But I am not a good friend of silicone-containing cockpit sprays and shiny leather Pflegmittel. Do you have any insidertips like I get rid of the “Fähnchen dealer” look in the interior? Unfortunately, he also has this typical smell. Do you get the leather to spray its scent aroma again? I thank you for all the tips that support me in the preparation for the happy family introduction of the new-old elk!!! Matthias
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2001 V70 2.0T with 257000km – trust or not?
I’ve been driving a Nissan for two years and I’ve been busy trying to figure out what I’m trying to replace it with. Nice hobby. I just got back to Volvo, after it’s difficult to get a practical gasoline truck with a lot of force* in the Toyota corner. Problem: Our driveway has 35 degrees incline, is 50m long, and I like to master it with a cold engine. So far, the only solution seems to be either a lot or old-fashioned long-hub engine displacement. This 2001 V70 looks good, leather seats, automatic machine (helps with the driveway, but a bit spoils the fun of driving), but unfortunately a very high mileage. What is there for this car maintenance according to schedule, how reliable is the engine, it also makes pressure from below, and what do I have to pay attention to especially with this mileage? Would be nice if someone here can give me a quick introduction or links to the topic V70 II! Lieb Gruss Oli
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Sticker “Environmental friendly through long-term use” Collectable order thread
Moin, who wants him, the sticker? I talked to Sandy, he can put on a small series. Div colors (white, silver, red, yellow, blue) Size: like the OE sticker from the SIPS, which stuck on the rear window at the time… Gluing from inside or outside Price: 5€ per piece + 1€ Porto In this thread orders can be collected and in 14 days from today Sandy then throws the plotter. So that now (hopefully) countless single mails with him I have this in the hand So all those who want to enter such a sticker here in this thread with color request and whether glue inside or from outside. I then send PN with account data and expect in return addresses 😉 Then I can pass all data to the production and shipping as “order processing” … Well, let’s go! Markus (Auszimmerdame der Produktion ;-))
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Lambda probe “Faulty Signal”
Since this morning, the MKL has been shining. When reading out, he says “lambda regulation outside tolerance” , which is a classic and has something to do with my gas system. But now, the “lambda probe – error signal” is new, which cannot be deleted. And not with the Delphi, the flashbox or by cohesion of the battery poles. Does anyone have a tip? Both to the background of the error and to the deletion. The probe is from Denso and approx. A year old.
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Volvo V 70 engine control unit reperature / service signal lights
Good day, this is my first post and I’m pretty new in the Volvo community. I have a V 70 Bj 1997 gasoline /automatic 104 KW 270,000 km With me the service signal lights up. We can read all the ECUs via OBD II except for the engine control unit. This is not possible for some reason, there are no errors indicated. Otherwise everything seems to be fine. I have now written a repair service because the car the exact symptone as on the n Homepage described shows and wanted the engine control unit to be repaired there. However, I was told that I should have a workshop checked beforehand if it really lies on the control unit. Described Symptone according to homepage: “Different failures of the engine control unit, the vehicle no longer starts or goes out during the ride. The vehicle wobbles and runs restlessly, it comes to ignition oscillations. Usually also the yellow error indicator “motor electronics” lights up. different error codes – depending on the defective output or you can no longer communicate with the control unit ECU can no longer be read out” I only get to wacklern and the car runs restlessly between 80 – 100 kmh. Since I want to make a longer tour through Europe want to have the whole before repaired. My question, is there anything else that I can check before in such a case, whether it is really the engine control unit? Many Gs Rüße, Roland
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850 TDI Warmstart problem
Hello guys, wanted to summarize here again what I could find on the topic of warm start problem. I have not found the actual cause of my 850TDI yet (unfortunately). Spoken solutions: 1) air in the fuel system (I checked, found nothing – point 6 speaks against) 2) temperature switch change (made – did not bring anything) 3) magnetic switch on the starter defective – starter must be dipped (really?) 4) ECU defective (priced) 5) have read somewhere already, that the OT-Geber (sitting under the ESP on the engine block) does not work properly in the warm state, but it is expensive (80Euro) and Pkt. 5 speaks against it. My experiences, which avoid the problem: 6) push the car – jumps perfectly at 7) briefly start (Motror does not start), then just leave the ignition on AN for about 1 min and again start attempt – usually someone else works an idea – together the problem would have to be circled in and solved, right? (there unless it’s really the ECU – I don’t want to change that for cost reasons) Gruss, Eduard
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Volvo workshop tester and 150,- € secure voucher ?
Hello, yesterday I received a letter from Volvo Car Germany that they want to win me as a workshop tester. I should register with their partner DEKRA and drive to my preferred Volvo workshop during the next inspection. I think that the meaning and purpose and the course of a workshop test is known. Now I have doubts whether my workshop, with which I am very satisfied, would not be angry if the test would not be so good. Or should I have the How do you feel about it? Thank you for your answers.