Hello dear Volvo community, I have recently been the owner of a C70 II (Bj 2011), which is equipped only with a tire repair kit. I will never really trust these kits, so I would like to bring an emergency bike with me. Against this background I would like to ask two questions: a) the assumption is actually correct that when looking for a used emergency bike for the C70 II I can in principle look at all vehicles that have the same hole circle (5×108) and the same hub diameter. better (63,4mm) have like a C70 II (can you get to know for example at lochkreisdaten.de) or are there any other limitations (injection depth, ABE) ? b) is there perhaps someone here who still has a suitable emergency wheel in the corner and wants to get rid of it ? Thanks for every answer. RH
Category: Honda Forum
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V50 1.6 D / after changing the injector direction no more power in the lower turning range
Hello together Unfortunately, I can’t find anything about my problem in the forums. I hope one of you can help me. 2 days ago I changed the injector seal at an injector because diesel has leaked out. The seal was over. I noticed at the wechesln that the intake hose from the air filter to the engine is broken. I could just attach it with the clamp (replacement part is on the way). The next day I drove to work and on the way back I had All of a sudden there is no more power in the lower speed range. Visual control shows that all injectors are tight and the intake hose is still on it. Since then it starts very bad in the morning and has no more power in the speed range up to 2,000. With the OBD read out, the error message “P2002 diesel particulier filter efficiency belwo threeshold” shows me. My interpretation is that the engine no longer burns cleanly. I’m just a bit perplexed, maybe someone can help me. Thanks in advance for tips and hints. Many greetings Markus
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V50 engine system maintenance required
Hello Together, today my V50 2.0D 2007 reported the following error: “Motor system maintenance required” After pressing the “Meldungstaste” a, left lever the melding disappeared. The engine was warm driven about 80 km. I mean to have noticed a slight jerking at a speed below 1,500. However, I would not conjure that. After about 30 minutes of service life I started the car renewed without any problems. Acceleration as always and no more error message. Also no more jerking. He said if the error has disappeared now it will be difficult to see what is in the error memory because it will probably be deleted after kutzer time. Was it perhaps a false alarm ??? I am a little worried since I drive to work every day 190 km (back and forth) and do not necessarily want to lie on the Autubahn. I am grateful about every tip. Gruss Thomas
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Cooler defective? Whirlpool in the balance tank!
Moin. Volvo 855 model year 1995 engine type B5252FS/S gearbox type M56 305,000km OK. I try it first with the short version (without previous history and the last repertures) and limit myself to my three main suspects: I have strong cooling fluid loss and do not know where the water goes. In addition, very high pressure in the cooling system already after 20km drive. This is expressed in clear Gurgel noises from the cooling water balance tank. The liquid rises to under the De The fan runs through as soon as the operating temperature is reached. In urban traffic and also over land it can keep the temperature. If I scare it a little bit, the temperature rises noticeably, but also falls quickly again, as soon as the spray supply is lowered. Engine off, fan off – no recooling. On engine off, ignition on it cools after. After a short cooling time a valve seems to open somewhere and makes the balancing tank in about 20 secun the empty. Where? I don’t know. Sometimes I have a spot under the car, but mMn. too little for the liter that creeps up there. In the changing weather difficult to determine. At least the position of the spot coincides with the wet radiator ribs (see photos). Cooler torn? The lid of the balance tank is just new. I had a gray (opens at 1 bar?) now a green (opens at 1.5 bar?). Can that be a reason? 3. Suspect – Thermostat. Ideas – Experiences – suggestions, sweetens me the weekend ——mod——– Pictures removed at the request of TE ——-mod—–
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Speed fluctuations C70 2.4T
Hi guys, I’ve been having a problem with my C70 2.4T Aut, MY05 for a few years, that in the 60 km/h range the speed drops to 1200U/min. The engine then buzzes naturally, it happens even when driving evenly, but can be reproduced well by light gas-giving. Usually this occurs when the car is half warm. At the cold start, the speed also drops to the normal 900U/min instead of running slightly higher. Thermostat has already been exchanged and various software replayed. I have now bought a Bosch air mass meter (after a cheap part led to the car barely running) and the whole thing has changed, but is still there. At least in idle he now turns higher and drives somehow softer. What do you think about it? I am grateful about every idea. Greeting Jens
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Remove “Cutting-Gummilippe” from the V70
Greetings, does anyone know an effective variant to remove the rubber lip that sits at the lower edge of the rear window with the V70 Kombi? It is jammed behind the rear window, is there a possibility to take apart without the tailgate? Thanks in advance, peace
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Listen to the future – DAB+
Hi, has received the following e-mail from Volvo Switzerland: The new Volvo Original retrofit solution for DAB+ Dear Mr. Don Vito S40 From 2020, the first FM stations in Switzerland will be gradually shut down and the DAB+ digital radio will be established as a new standard no later than 2024. To ensure that you will continue to listen to your Volvo radio and benefit from the advantages of digital radio such as better sound quality and greater range of radio stations, Volvo will offer you a new fully integrated even better: If you have your vehicle upgraded to the new DAB+ radio standard by November 30, 2019, you can purchase articles from your official Volvo representative from the Volvo Lifestyle Collection worth 200 CHF. Contact your Volvo representative who will be happy to advise you on the advantages of the Volvo Original retrofit solution and make a personal offer. has anyone got more information?
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Rims at the rear become hot, even without braking, even short distance
Hello, the following problem exists already longer – and it does not come from that we drive only rarely (1x/week), because we were now on the road for a few days every day: The (alu) rims in the back become hot. you can drive 15 km without braking (always slightly uphill) or last week we drove 100 km over a pass and then 30 km through a level: at home you can just leave your hand at the rim. a ‘outglue’ rim or mature fire risk exists probably not. the brake discs are not worn out and look like new. the brake pads also. was in a volvo workshop, the nearest one is here 1 hour driving time simple. the workshop has taken everything apart and checked and not found any defects. is also so on the bill. probably also no wonder, since, when we at the workshop clamped, the wheels were exceptionally not hot but only slightly warm. the brake discs were in front of about 15 tkm at volvo my V70, bj 9/15 now has 151 tkm on it. what to do? ignore? VG
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Swap DPF?
Meal together, last Wednesday (of course exactly when you want to go to the airport or on vacation) I noticed a significant power loss with my S40 2.0D Bj 2005 (157,000 km). The engine only turned up to a maximum of 2800 rpm and managed to reach the 110 km/h even in the 6th gear. Since I had practically no other choice, I still went to the airport. Yesterday I came back and made my way home. At the first 1-2 km he had the normal Power, after that the game started from the front. I did not have the DPF replaced until today. There is still no error message in the cockpit. Today I am in the workshop with the vehicle and the error memory was read out: OBD: error code P2002: soot particle filter bank 1 – efficiency under minimum engine: error code 8194: soot particle filter – function faulty According to free workshop the DPF should be replaced. Recommendation is exchange for original part, additional the pump in the rear part of the vehicle, which is connected to the filter. The error memory has been deleted and I now have power again, but who knows how long… So I will probably have to do it. But since I don’t have to give away any money right now, I ask myself to what extent? I have already read here and there that it can also lie on the differential pressure sensor, which would then be significantly cheaper. If it is not on the sensor, the DPF would have to change it. rden. What about the workshop’s suggestion that the pump should be replaced directly? And what does it say for and against a purified DPF? Who knows the matter and can give me some advice so that I can get out of the number with the lowest possible cost? Thanks in advance.
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What a bad quality!
Hello P1er! Yes, what a bad quality Volvo is installed! There you buy a Volvo (almost) new with almost 10,000 km on the clock, drives the 6.5 years and then that… The first defect! At 200,000 km the front Lambdasonde really kills! Message “Decreased engine power” (even less than before!?) and the emergency run occurs. More than 2000 rpm you can no longer turn the engine and it smells like fuel at the back. What kind of scrap! ? Not even 200,000 km gets Volvo without a gun Okay, yes, a little poorly formulated and now seriously. The first time I ever have a (serious) problem with my C30 2.0l. The engine runs, the box drives. ALL other diseases of the P1 series have NOT set up in my C30… – all 4 wheel bearings are original and from the plant still – the climate capacitor is still the first from the plant – no problems with any steering locks – no problems with the Electrics – no problems with the gearbox The “defects” I had so far were pure comfort things. Cracking drive shafts, crackling driver’s seat, creaking cathedral bearings, etc. serious problems my C30 has not yet done. Now it is in the 8 year and has 200,000 km down. Some statements from various forums included “the engine does not hold out 100,000 km” and “you should put a reserve gearbox in the trunk, you will definitely need that” and other statements. I have e don’t worry that the car will take part in another 200,000 km. And going after the condition, it will be absolutely without problems. The age of the car can’t be seen at So, so much on the subject of bad Ford quality in P1!