Category: Honda Forum

The car has 225/45 tyres on 16 inch rims and lowering springs. The driving behaviour is quite restless, especially with track grooves and bumps. Before that the tail broke out: it rained and I drove in a very sharp right turn, in front of me were two cars, which are quite normal and without problems, we had a slow speed, so close to 50 km/h, wi d drive around this turn, towards the end of the turn suddenly the tail goes away and I had great trouble to catch the car again, also came to the opposite lane, fortunately no oncoming traffic. The other cars are there quite normal without problems, there was nothing on the road and the speed was adapted to the track. What the hell was that? On the tires are good 2 bar on it (stands on the sticker at the front door, which you should make 2 bar on the tires, the tires have What can this be about?

Hello, because the new Accord Diesel is still too expensive for me, it will probably become the Civic 1.7 CDTI. Although it has only 101 hp, and it is already a step backwards by about 92 hp from my current 325ti Compact, but unfortunately I have no choice as to that. I don’t want to put money on it either, because then I could just as well drive my BMW on. Since for me a German Diesel is not possible, my choice has fallen on the Civic 1.7 CDTI (possibly still the Toyota Corolla, but d I don’t like it so much.) My current workplace is 60 km (120 km a day) away from me, and I would save myself about 250 EUR every month on fuel costs. That’s what comes together for a year. Now to my questions: 1. Does the diesel in the Civic have a control chain or a timing belt? 2. Should I wait until next year until the new Civic is out? (I would rather change now, because now the car is matured.) 3. Is there anything about the engine of the Civic too Bzw. How durable is he, etc. Thank you.

As promised (unfortunately a little late) the own topic about the Civic Coupé. A picture of the Angel Eyes is already in the forum. Here I will publish some more of the vehicle and ask you to express your opinion. The Civic was bought year 95 and from 1st hand. Changes: – Side rails and door handles painted – sports mirror (painted) – one-piece Angel Eyes connected with blinker (completely new installed) – clear glass lights at the rear – white side blinker (OPEL) – Heckkla ppe gecleant (Schloss, Zeichen, Nummerschildsaussung) – KW thread suspension – Keskin rims KT1 Classic in 9×16 ET15 and ET25 with 215/40 R16 all around – license plate cut-out in front removed and license plate set down – Maxpower rear apron – instrument lighting replaced by blue LEDs – self-turned aluminium knob – Sony MD radio + 10 CD changer – Eton 2 ways in the doors and dashboard – JBL 2 ways in the hat rack (with acoustic material) – Amphaser bass box e (blue illuminated) – Amplifier 5-channel amplifier – blue trunk lighting

So hello everyone! I drive a prelude BA4 and have given up an ad in the www. Now someone wants to buy my car, transfer me a check and by a freight company I should send the car over?! So, I have no idea what to do now and if I can trust him.. There are so many scammers and I don’t know how to be safe in this business.. Here’s the mail: Hello Thanks for your mail i really approach your response but t o let you know i have a shipping company that will ship the car down to my home so all i have to do is to send you a queue of 5500 euro,then you will remove the money from it and you will send the change to the shipping company.the name of the shipping company is [email protected] you can mail them for more details if you wish. you can trust me the shipping company are very good on handling things like this,i am there repurlar customer and to let you know i have some other goods t has am buying that i want them to send it to me.if you agree with this you can send me your FULL NAME HOME ADDRESS AND PHONE NUMBER so i can tell my secret to issue thecheque instantly and send it down to you.pls if this is inconviniece for you i wish i could have any other means to send it to you,i await your reply.thanks Regards ******* Ask for your help! Thank you in advance!

Hello, after having such problems with the heating and foggy windows, I have found for myself the best setting now. Maybe it is also quite interesting for others. I place the heating on car and AC OFF. Then I put the ventilation on the feet and the disc via fashion. Now I make the nozzles to the right and left completely, so it is also in the instruction to get the windows free as soon as possible, as so more air goes on the windows. Now comes only still Air to the right and left out of the small nozzles and at the front of the disc. The feet are not too short, warm air rises upwards, so you should prefer to heat up anyway the lower nozzles so that it goes the fastest. By the position on the feet also the foot mat is dried immediately. So it remains less moisture in the car when you shut it down. The nozzle on the front window keeps these nicely free. And the small nozzles to the right and left are exactly for the side In addition, you can build a warm air layer between the outside wall and body, so you don’t feel the cold of the wall anymore, because the cold comes from the outside, not from the middle of the car. In addition, you don’t have any draught in the car, I often had the feeling before with contact lenses that I have a train on my eyes. Temperature is usually 22°C, sometimes 23 or 24°C. Would be nice to hear from others what they have of this adjustment. and how they can cope with it. Or to hear how they have solved it so far. Greetings Joker

Hello, I’ve been driving an FK1 sport for 2 weeks… ran the first week very well, I also noticed nothing from the other “stitches” that were so addressed here (backgate, shock absorber etc.)… but it starts now slowly to crackle a little / snare in the front cockpit area… especially to notice when driving over light cobblestones, such a crackling from the lower cover under the tacho… Thought first that might have something with the cold temperatures ne but to do it outside (plastics may be a little…) because it wasn’t at the beginning (there it was a little bit warmer)… Does anyone else have smaller crackling problems with the FK series?

Hi, there is a new Civic Sedan, unfortunately not in Germany, in Turkey there is the official to buy. The model can be seen on the Honda Turkey side. http://www.honda.com.tr/otomobil/model/?model=civicsedan&page=main The car is mounted in Turkey. The TEiles probably come from England. I wonder if a car mounted in Turkey achieves the same quality as a vehicle mounted in Europe. I ask for constructive contributions, please no racist contributions. It is about location criteria, such as infrastructure and training quality of the employees. as well as material quality. I am a Turk and would like to drive a Japanese, which is assembled in Japan. Europe, e.g. Germany is no longer the top quality for some time now. Incidentally, the bus and truck factory of Mercedes BEnz in Turkey has just been named the best factory in its division worldwide.

Before the first winter I want to make a ground protection with my FK 2. It was advised to make it with beeswax. 3 days ago I saw a Civic of 20 years old without a rust. I asked the owner what he took against the rust. He told me that he Flurit which is also taken for ships that are always on the way in the sea water for the wagen.. If I give this up I just have to look that I have time on a dusty road Re. When applying, one should also wear a protective mask because this medium smells very stinks. In the 20 yrs he has otherwise never got anything from that up. He would now also get me something like that. Wants only to ask if something like this has ever been used or who knows. I think Flurit means that medium. Also would be interesting if also who has a cavity protection to do with his new FK?

Sodele, I just mounted my winter bikes. I don’t plan on riding the new Honda with ice and snow, but I still have my old golf. But since I got the tyres when I bought them anyway and the new regulation also comes into force with the spongy winter tyre obligation, I just did it. Should also be advantaged with temperatures below zero, and does not want to risk my comprehensive protection, if then something happens and I do with ice colds. e with summer tires…. But I still have a question. With my buddy the steel rims rust each time on the car, you get the things in spring only by force again. With me the brake discs at the front and at the back were rusted already on the support surface. How can you now prevent the rims from rusting on the brake discs over the winter? Can you lubricate a little WD40 or a little bit of fat thinly on the support surface? because someone has another good tip? Don’t want to knock down the rims in the spring with the big hammer. Or should I ever put a can of rust-solver ready for the spring With my ancient wolves I never had the problem at all, not even at first there was a rim rusted…. sells Honda there any super-cheap-rust rims????

mealtime, I have a question: have the 18 wheels in black. I have the long wheel nuts. so, now I want to raise my steel rims/winter tires and if I use the long wheel nuts, they look a little funny. are just long and look out. have then called honda. they told me that there are short wheel nuts and that the ONE! 4euro should cost.. so 80euro for all (macke or what?). well, for each case the long ones should also fit. what do you say here Do you have the short or the long? does it all work out for you? low