Category: Honda Forum

  • Coolant in the driving room – Footroom – V70I – Pls help!

    Hi Volks, I have a big problem here and hope that it’s not about the topic of “complete dashboard removal”. As can be seen in the picture, comes from the heater?? below a hose out – you can see coolant running out there. Even with the supply air you can smell coolant. Can it be that there is only a bit clogged there or is it actually the bad topic “heat exchanger leaking”? But no matter what it is – I have to do it. Only a little simple would be nicer 😉 Many greetings e Tom

  • V70 2.4T Autom. BSR1 vs. Porsche Cayenne S

    Hy, so since my engine renewal it’s going really well. BSR 1 and other little things are on it. But not the better LLK and possibly the better downpipe incl. exhaust. Nevertheless, I noticed today that he can not only keep up with a Porsche Cayenne S, but could even overtake it to the right. The Porsche has always tried it, and always it was certainly too weak (not much but still). That can’t be what I thought, the S is the stronger model that I did. or is that in the 2.5+ tons league ? But that he has bitten so many times has surprised me. What would have happened if Stage 4 had been under my hood ? Well, anyway again a nice day that my old Volvo has given me 🙂

  • Automatic gearbox Check oil level – is simply an imposition

    Colleagues, I really like my C70 and I’m really grateful to Volvo and TWR for creating this, my favorite vehicle. But for testing the oil level of the automatic transmission, the engineers of Volvo still belong today….. Does anyone have a trick here as to how to get to the trackstick somehow humanely reasonable? Make change or something? With hot engine you risk burns and injuries, you need snake hands and fingers. It’s best to get three hands to keep the hoses out of the way and at the same time somehow get into the depth of the engine compartment. Such a Murk. It had to be said that I changed the ATF on weekends and washed through. That’s basically everything simple (if you don’t confuse the hoses and first you can pump ATF free and clean it). It’s also nice to see that there’s really a dark broth coming out). But I’m just shocked at the position of the track rod. ….

  • Up/upgrading the children’s seat, who’s done this?

    Moin, if everything works as it should, our 850 will soon be a seven-seater. today a foreign 850 parked in front of the house door, in the back the additional seat, I directly talked to the driver if he still needs the one, no need he, we can have the one in the opposite direction he wants then our trunk plate. well now I wonder, is that easy? with the one car out, in the other car inside? the belts go into the side panel, in the back bench are “holes” in the plastic f or so hook to anchor the back bench when folding up. etc. if one of you has already done that, how difficult/consuming was that?

  • Help with the Lamda probe

    Hello guys, yesterday I fell through the Tüv. In addition to some little things like pears, which don’t shine quite as much as the examiner would prefer, there were some more serious problems. Above all, the following worries me: lambda value at increased speed no i.o. I realize that there can be several reasons for this, and to fix everything could exceed the value of the car a lot. I noticed from the beginning that the moose when accelerating up to about 30 00 rpm accelerates very quickly, and then there is a kink, like when you walk off the gas, afterwards it accelerates felt slower and turns more involuntarily. But if I actually walk off the gas, and push through the pedal again, it goes much better.Of course, everything felt subjective. First I changed the poti at the DK, then distributor and runner, then LMM cleaned usv. No change. My elk just has 190 K on the counter. The lambda probe was 50K at km from the Previous owners at Volvo changed – so real 150 ran with the current probe. Stay in the narrow circle LMM, Lamdasonde, Kat and temperature sensor. Temperature sensor I let dive before 15 K at Volvo. So I now play with the idea to exchange the LS. And there are the problems: which ones? Soooo many different variants are spat out as suitable for my vehicle. Therefore please help, if one knows about it, mch to assist in the choice. ug: 2,5 170hp BJ 11/96. VIN YV1LS5522V2382682 The values of the AU did not print out to me the examiner, but I saw that the beam on the device was red.

  • Motor control lamp S60 D5 year 2013

    Hello everyone, I had recently already hired a question regarding purchase advice on a Volvo S60 D5 215 hp, year 2013, approx. 70,000km. Yesterday I finally drove him test. He actually convinced me already at the first meters (had previously a S60 2,4D) until suddenly the engine control light turned on > engine system maintenance required < and he only ran in the emergency program and I so throttled back to the car dealership .... As for engine control lights I am a born At my SLK, the repair of the relevant serial error cost €6,000 (half of which ran to Kulanz). However, he always went normal and did not switch to an emergency program. Is this immediate switching an indication that there is a greater damage? Actually, I would be very interested in the vehicle because he has all available driving assistance systems.... I have arranged a second appointment next week for a test drive. I will ask you to do so. The error memory (i.e. the whole history of the vehicle) should be presented. From this it should also be clear whether this message has appeared more often. Except the error memory was deleted, but you don't have to be able to restore it?? In some threads I read that with this problem everything was changed and still there were error messages with workshop and partial towing costs. Ngen with the engine control light? I couldn't find anything about a serial error with Volvo. Thanks in advance for your answers!!!

  • Buy a car at a distance – how to pay safely?

    Hello together, I’m thinking about buying a new car (nice used car). Unfortunately, my dealer can’t get me the object of desire, so I have to enlarge the search radius. Now I finally found a car, unfortunately it’s almost 600km away… The dealer (Volvo dealer) makes a good impression, but I would like to be on the safe side with regard to payment. According to my knowledge, it’s not without risk to transfer the money in advance, so without having the car and the papers. A colleague was also a customer at a large power provider and paid for a year in advance. And chauffeuring all the money in cash through Germany… Well… 🙂 What kind of payment is certain, which one do you recommend? Greetings & thanks in advance!!!

  • The joke of the day… (Volvo and spare parts prices)

    Moin! I was with today to pick up the ordered spare parts. Ordered were: VDD, gasket from the valve cover to the injectors and the seals of the injector seat. As far as good. When I saw however what these “copper rings” cost ́ I thought it ́s a joke: 4,32.-€ + VAT.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! are these still normal? (I mean there VCG not the dealer – it can ́t do anything for it) I ́ll think about a plate of copper lech to bes Org, and the things then handcrafted for 3 fuffzish worldwide to defend. Normal washers from Cu don’t go – you notice the noses in the hole. And if it has to be I suck the holes in there with the tongue! Add another picture of the said “High Perfomance Turbo Copper Seal GTI 16V Synchro” So. Finished. Greetings Bibo Aunt Edith I think I should add that the 4,32.-€ refer to a seal, and not about all five!

  • Fucked up.

    Hello, I made a stupid mistake with my Volvo V50 built in 2004 (1.8 petrol) . I tried to exchange the LEDs with my son at the speedo (was completely dark meanwhile ) After we have the speedo again , the car can not start any more , and the windscreen wipers run all the way . Also the immobilizer is on . I then expanded the speedo and saw that something solder has dripped down . It could have caused a short . Have jetz t it cleaned up again, but the symptoms are still. What can I do before I have the car scrapped ??.

  • VOLVO V70 2.4 Diesel – built in 2002 – shock absorber

    Here I have made a completely new experience with my contract workshop. During the assembly of new tyres it was found that the rear shock absorbers are defective and have to be replaced. The vehicle has a mileage of around 270,000 TKM and that is a good value for such a wear part. I bought the vehicle as a new car from this dealer, all relevant vehicle data must be there. It took me a whole day until my workshop m I can’t understand why it takes a whole day at a VOLVO contract workshop. I asked others, ATU and PitStop, here I got the information or the estimate within half an hour. VOLVO approx. € 440,– ATU € 341,– PitStop € 275,– The Volvo workshop certainly installs original spare parts, with the other two would MO NGOs and/or SACHS. Here I would like to know something about the experiences of our forum members. MfG – Rivastar