Category: Honda Forum

Quotation: Original written by Cubs Hello Erstma! I don’t know if they already knew… that the chemical composition of diesel and petrol is so different that the amount of fuel burned by GLEICHER produces diesel significantly more CO2 than gasoline. In this respect, 10l petrol corresponds to about 8.8l diesel. This small difference has the consequence that the C02 balance for the diesel looks worse than the pure fuel consumption suggests. d CO2-equivalent tax, then one would have to tax the diesel 13.2% higher than petrol. On the basis of the data from Esso and today’s petrol price I come to the following invoice (in ct): Superbenzene Product price 46,533 Mineral oil tax 65,450 VAT 17,917 Final price 129,900 Diesel (currently) Product price 51,150 Mineral oil tax 47,040 VAT 15,710 Final price 113,900 Diesel (CO2-equivalent) Product price 51,150 Mineral oil tax 74,089 (1) VAT 20,038 Final price 145,278 (1): Mine ralölsteuer Benzin*1,132: 65,450*1,132=74,089 In order to tax according to CO2 emissions fairly, the car tax for both drive concepts would have to be equal. In this model it is also evident to the layman, when the diesel is more advantageous after the CO2 point of view: If the fuel costs for the diesel are lower than for the petroler. In view of these amounts diesel engines are only significantly later for the user (not the environment), because the lower consumption must All those who read up to this point may have understood it anyway: The contribution is not a “faith thing”, it is not about more or less carcinogenous exhaust gases, fine dusts,… Quite simply about the CO2 emissions of the two drive concepts and a fair taxation derived from it. If this is implemented, then in a second step one can gladly be aware of the harmful effect of the exhaust gases beyond CO2 Many greetings, Rawaho P.S.: Fuels produced from renewable raw materials are not taken into account here, current mandatory mixture to the mineral oil diesel IMHO 5% – this can be calculated as a small exercise itself

Hello guys: I’ve read some threads because of LPG etc. but I’m totally not clear about what/how/where and if I should do it at all. So how about a thousand possibilities. I’m driving a Volvo V70 2.4T with 128TKM and would like to convert it to LPG/Autogas. Now the question is there are differences like LPG and so on. What’s meaningful!? How do the fixtures look like? What would the cost? Where is the best way to do that? Is that even possible with a turbo and doesn’t it hurt? Do you have, like with Bi-Fuel V70 2 tanks that also switch when the one is empty? Questions about questions. Sorry I’m a total beginner can explain this from the ground up. Thanks for some help Jens

Have a new XC90. Horny car. There is only one problem with these Kofphörerconnections in the rear. Have connected headphones, music comes, but can’t choose between stations or titles. Only the music that comes in front of the radio comes. Have already tried all four sockets. Is there a trick or something? Do you have to do something on the radio first?

Hello V70 D5er ! Who has, or where is there for future D5 Faherer a list with the differences between the EU cars (France, Benelux, Italy, Netherlands etc.) and the German original equipment and/or production stand. IMHO it is only then (for me) possible to compare the price advantage of the EU cars with the added value of the German cars. What I already got out: a.) Following a tip I can already state that French V70 D5 a approx. 12…17mm smaller front Brem (from self-made photos, with the same rim, with an estimated measurement error) b.)The next difference is the question about the heater. As I read here, it is not clear which EU variants have at all standard. If one goes after the surcharges for the real heater in the respective price lists (criterion equal price for gasoline and diesel), then in the French, benelux and Dutch V70 D5 the heater is not included. Who knows more precisely ? Who has a a list ? Who still knows differences ? Greetings Christoph P.S. A V70 D5 will make it safe, only from where and what do I have to do without !

S60 / S80 etc … most people know this: “READ” button and 2x short (not, as everywhere is 3x !) the key of the fog lamp is pressed, the error memory is read out by display and the individual assemblies are tested. However, if the individual assemblies are tested (ABS checking … etc.) there are some that do not get out of the “checking phase”. -> TCM (control unit automatic gearbox), ECM (motor control unit), DDM, PDM (control unit doors), CCM (air conditioning unit) your device) and SWM (driver steering wheel). Everyone else shows “ready” quickly. Is that also the case with you? And does this mean that the test is unsuccessful, or do you have to do anything else to make it go through?

Hello, I have had a used V70 D5 Edition Comfort (MY 2007) in titanium grey for 3 months. Pictures follow, of course, when the weather is nice again. I bought this from a Volvo dealer in Mönchengladbach, but I live and live in Berlin. The BC justifiably asks me to maintain my standard since yesterday. Now I am looking for a Volvo contract, because the roof sky needs a new fixture (causes the known noise). Of course, I would like to combine the visit with an inspection. I am therefore looking for a recommendable Volvo contract venue in Berlin. Unfortunately, the SuFu only lists negative examples. Thank you for your commitment!

Hi am here new, driving since nov. 2011 V70 S 2 Move Bj. 2005 Mod. 2006. Car comes from Switzerland only had to allow it here new according to § 29 (full acceptance), which was not quite so easy, because my elk has a KME LPG system, which was not set to obd,and also I have a propeller with the xenon light which the Tüv criticized but still gave me the stamp,the headlights fall in automatic position after 2-3 sec. from approx. 3mtr. before the Fzg. Here my question.? These xenons with adaptive curfew, my mod. were available according to Vertr,werkst. but only from Mod. 2008, can I leave them still inside? According to the workshop they have to get out control unit funtioniert mit dieses Scheinw. nicht.danke im Vorvor für eventeulle tips.

Hello, my Volvo has had some cold start problems since the beginning of winter, but I had to org for a few seconds which didn’t make the battery any more. On suspicion I also changed the glow plugs, which have already driven 100,000km, so it was necessary anyway, but this didn’t bring any change. Say: I also had to org a little longer than usual, but it starts after about 6 seconds. Due to the rather high mileage of almost 350. 000km and the knowledge that my moose should last a maximum of one year, however, I did this as a smaller “wehwechen”. A week ago it was then quite frosty outside and also under 0°C. After determined 10 start attempts (each about 10 sec.) I then called the ADAC which had the car with start spray immediately on the run. Now the situation is so that I have to orgle at the cold start each time endlessly long/often until it starts at some point… the starter is completely lost. then once it is at operating temperature, there are no more starting difficulties… but it stands 4, 5 hours the same procedure starts from the front. Is there maybe one or the other component that I could check or exchange on suspicion before I put the moose into the workshop?