MOTOR-TALK

Category: Honda Forum

  • Volvo V70 2.4 is too loud for me?

    Hello thanks for the recording. Drive a v70 2.4 with 103 kW of 99 for a week. But I find it tackers me too loud. You have to say that it has driven previous owners with 0w40, just as the oil has run out during oil change. Despite fresh oil and hydro impact additive, it nails me too loud. Near the video. Don’t pay attention to the grinding noise. Can also be that I’m paranoid. The car has only run 118,000km https://youtu.be/MjSuYPLHQ0c

  • Rule probe inconspicuous, diagnostic probe…?

    Hello, everybody! I need your swarm knowledge: For some time now there have been errors EFI 463. https://share.icloud.com/photos/0JAg8k74lRSTzlUpgc_8cidwQ This is the diagnostic probe. https://share.icloud.com/photos/0F_bhcrYcGZQ9z4JHmQXYIhfA That’s the control probe. For a few days no more errors come, but the probes are identical from the values. Ampere of the probe heating are the same and stable at both. LMM – value is perfect with 14kg, so next air should be excluded. Exhaust and crusher inconspicuous and performance completely normal. I guess on aging cat. What do you mean? Greetings to the round and thank you for your input in advance! Fredi PS: the diagnostic probe should actually have a half stable value and not such a violent curve course, right?

  • Engine does not start after LiMa exchange

    Hello together, I have problems with my 850. The engine doesn’t want to start any more, but I think it’s because of the electronics. I just get together what happened so far: – car was put in a barn over the winter, battery forgot to shut down – before turning it off it still drove in from its own drive – now in the summer battery dead, therefore car bridged – while bridging there were violent sparks of the crowd and the LiMa started to smoke when the engine was trying start – battery outside of the car charged and tried again, but everything was dead – LiMa removed, let measure –> Diodes burned through – new LiMa pure, battery jammed and see there, the interior lighting works again – ignition key turned, engine does not want to start, but starter is addressed – then again with power-powered booster tried, same result – cockpit shows nothing at all. If I set on ignition, should have some status lights on dive, but everything is dark. – fuses are all possible, at least in the fuse box in the engine compartment (there may be another one?) Does anyone have any idea how I could proceed here to narrow down the problem? Best regards Jonas

  • Warning light coolant level – engine overheated

    A few weeks ago, my 850er was replaced by the balancing tank, because the old one had a crack, some coolant was repeatedly pushed out of the lid of the tank. After that everything seemed fine, I reported about it … now I have problems again and despair so slowly During a drive of about 20 km on the highway the warning light for the coolant lit. After immediate control on the side strip I could not discover any loss, everything seemed All right, so that I continued the journey. Arriving at the finish line, shortly before the engine was turned off, the lamp went on again, then Qualmen, at the level of the compensation tank, came to it. I opened the bonnet and was to see that the tank was filled to the top, the coolant was pushed out. Again to the info: This is an AT engine, which I had only installed in the Volvo last year…. in the traffic jam the temperature always goes quite fast to the top n, never in the red area, before the fan jumps on. I called the “yellow man” who wanted to give me after a rather short inspection to understand that he could not discover anything that would prevent me from continuing my journey. On the trip home nothing happened, everything good… In the past days I had no problems anymore, but I was only traveling in the city. Today then, after about 20 km and back, the same problem. Just before I arrived home like the warning light, the temperature remained constant, … in the carport I ran the car to see what happened, when the fan started. As the pointer moved towards the red area, the coolant rose in the balance tank…. I expected the fan to sprang up, that it did, but only for 2-3 seconds, then it suddenly went out, the temperature continued to rise, the coolant filled almost the entire container. The fan only jumped up again when i ch the Volvo made up, because the situation became too difficult for me, clearly too late, the coolant has been squeezed out again again the ZKD defective??? Or maybe just a problem of the fan, or just a leak in the cooling circuit…. I am totally depressed and perplexed!!! In my workshop of trust I will probably not come with the Volvo any more, which is 85 km away and I doubt strongly that the Volvo will be happy about your opinions and tips…. Greetings Ela

  • Volvo V70 I, threshold right, rusting – sad picture

    Hello for now. I’m new here, but I’ve been reading with you for a long time. I’m driving a Volvo V70 I, BJ 1997, 2.4 106/144. As the friend, as you call it, pointed out to me that I should keep an eye on the right threshold in the height of the rear seat, I did that last weekend. I almost lost my eyes. But look for yourself. I would like to know your serious opinions on this. Is that still to be saved? In addition, the supposed third part, i.e. inside, has already set rust. A slightly more recent photo after coarse rust removal will be enough. I had not thought about it any more, but will probably come soon. Incidentally, there was still puff pastry over the hole before and would be tenderly removed with hammer and screwdriver. Thank you very much for your time and effort. Best regards Frank.

  • Volvo V70 I, 2.5 144 HP – Rugging in stand & at partial load – Need urgent HELP

    Hello together It’s about my Volvo V70 I, EZ 1997, 2.5 144 hp automatic (MKB B5252S) which in the stand as well as with partial load does not bring the complete performance and (feeling?) only runs on 4 pots. I had bought it at the beginning of the year, it still ran perfectly. First it started with jerks at the traffic light (only D & P, not in N). Smelling then it became worse, so that at some point he not only jerked in the stand but also when accelerating. I have already read all the threads on this topic (and there is a lot of of of them) and have already done all kinds of things, so far unfortunately without success. Now the ideas go out and I’m coming up and I’m not going to be able to do anything else. I’m not going to be able to do anything, but I’m not going to be able to do anything, and I’m not going to be able to do anything, so I’m not going to be able to do anything. The worst thing: we wanted to go to Spain next Sunday with it. You are my last hope. Unfortunately, it is very urgent and our holiday is in danger of falling into the water. I would like to list briefly what has been tested or replaced so far: ignition completely new: cable, candles, distributor, fingers & ignition coil –> Everything checked several times in the dark as well as with water (spray mist) – i.e. –> The candles are all deer brown, except for the 1st from the left, which was quite bright. the exchange (see injection nozzle below) now looks similar to all others. Black was or is not a candle. Coolant.-Temp. sensor: tested & i. O. Lambdasonde: tested & i. O. camshaft sensor: tested & i. O. DK incl. flame screen and all sounds cleaned – i. O. 1. injection nozzle v. left (looking from the front) replaced, because probably was no longer in order. Unfortunately also without success – runs like ever – bad! Errors were read out several times (OBD II plug however) – no errors stored overpressure hoses are all connected and sealed (tested). These can also be excluded. I still suspect that it is due to the ignition, but can not say it with certainty. The car smells like unburnt fuel. A thick mass cable from the battery to the engine block below was broken. I replaced this with a new one. Problem still exists. It may be that this means that the STG has a low pressure hose. Does anyone have another tip on what I can check or test? Thank you in advance!

  • Diesel particulate filters change Volvo V50 2.0 D

    Hello. Today I started to change the particle filter. My V50 from 2008 meanwhile has 166,500 km down. Although I did not have an emergency run yet, but for about a year I noticed oil increase and for a few weeks also a strongly increased diesel consumption. So I thought, cann’t be a witchcraft to change this part. I bought a replica filter from Cats and Pipes from Wales (GB) in the wholesale trade. Price 355 €. Thanks to the instructions of the user ALOK (thanks for this) it was also clear what and how everything had to be unscrewed. I unscrewed the cross beam and sprayed the flange screws on the DPF properly with rust releaser and let it work for about 10 minutes. All four nuts were released relatively easily with a gun. The two hoses were affected by the differential pressure sensor, which was a little fuzzy, since the upper hose was relatively light. The plug of the temperature sensor was a little “hardened” and could not be removed so easily. It was also the plug of the temperature sensor. It could only be unruly and solved. But everything was a small question of patience and within a few minutes it was all done. Then I was able to remove the old DPF relatively easily. Then the temperature sensor was removed and screwed into the new one and tightened. new seals on top and again pure with the new DPF. Nuts and seals lay Then push the hoses from the differential pressure sensor on, which was a little fummy again, plug in the temperature sensor, tighten all the nuts, get ready. Take some pictures, about 45 minutes. Then I filled up the additive, deleted all the errors with the OBD computer, reset the counter and finished. Overall I needed a little more than an hour for it. Then I changed the oil and filter, so that with it again all the engine started and it ran as usual. Also no engine control lights or any other malfunction indicated. Then looked if the filter is close to the flanges. Everything okay. I then checked with the computer again all parameters, also there was everything ok. Now I drove off then. Performance actually like before, so I say you can feel at the performance nothing that a new DPF was installed. I was only important, how behaves the fuel consumption. So on the highway un d run. He moved unreservedly to Tacho 210 km/h and also went during thrust operation to a current consumption of 0.0 liters / 100 km. That was already the first good sign, because in recent times he had always indicated a consumption in thrust operation, partly even 1.8 liters / 100 km. That is over. I then reset the average consumption on the highway. I then drove quite comfortably with 80 in the 6th gear over the country road home. In the place at the traffic light, sometimes on the board computer I know that this value is utopianly low and it will definitely settle again to 6 – 6.5 liters, but the first impression was extremely positive. Also, it was immediately noticeable when driving over the country road that it no longer regenerated, it was no longer possible to feel a jerking at partial load. So also that positive. All in all, it can be said from my point of view after the first impression, waru I have been tormented with this for so long?! Two static regenerations and two extra-planned oil changes due to dilution were not worth it. If the filter now thinks for the price what I promise myself, I am more liberating and annoyed that I have waited so long with it. I am at least curious how the consumption will develop over a longer period of time. Can keep you informed. But have certainly saved a lot of money. a few more photos that document the work steps. Greeting Rüdiger

  • Bosch wiper blade: Aerotwin for Volvo XC60 (BJ2014)

    Hello, I am dissatisfied with the original Volvo wiper blades and would like to exchange them for Bosch Aerotwin. On the official homepage of Bosch there are no accessories for the vehicle XC60 D4 FWD (BJ2014). If you are looking for Volvo XC60 D4 AWD BJ2014, accessories are listed, including the Aerotwin wiper blade set. Are there really differences in the holder of the wiper blades or do not talk about other reasons, the Aerotwin wiper blades for the D4 AWD also on the XC 60 D4 FWD (BJ2014)? What experiences did you have with the Bosch Aerotwin?

  • XC60 – Thule or VOLVO? – Which roof rack and box?

    Hello together, it had to mature for a long time, but now I am also convinced that I need a “mother-in-law sarge” on my moose. For a layman the decision making is rather difficult. I like the Thule Wingbar system purely optically. But also the VOLVO system looks nice, especially since it is probably made by Thule ( ?). I want a system that can take a Thule box (possibly the new one ), with approx. 300-350 liters. Later the system should also be compatible with Thule Fahrr Should I buy the expensive Thule Wingbar or original Volvo? If I change the car I would like to continue using the system with manageable costs. Concretely: P.S.: Found a few pictures that fit visually well.

  • Volvo S60 D3 Summum 2011 110,000KM Purchase Advice.

    Hello dear Volvo Comunity, would like to buy me a new used one. The decision a lot on Volvo S60, because the car looks good, does not stand at every corner and you hear in large and not much negative. I come from Austria and there the selection is not so big when it comes to used S60. A copy that appeals to me is the S60 D3 summum, with 110,000km. 13.800Euro So the car is praised by the dealer: FIRST BESITZ SCHÖNER ZUTAND NO SMOKING VEHICLE GARAGEG EXPLANATORY PICKERL TO 2017 (MODEL 2012) AUSTRIAC VEHICLE (NO INPORT) SERVICE AT FIRMA VOLVO (FULL STANDARD) NEW SERVICE ****AUTOBAHN KM**** NO KRATZER & DELLEN UMTAUSCH + FINANCING WITHOUT PAYMENT POSSIBLE!!!! FOR INVESTIGATORS NOT APPLICABLE!!! NEEDS TERMINAL AGREEMENT!!!! ALSO APPLICABLE TO WEEKING!!! *** TO THREE YEARS GUARANTEE POSSIBLE -> BY PRICE*** *******!!! ITS NO E-MAILS!!!***** CAR Model: S60 D3 Summum**. FIRST SITTING.WY NEW** CAR Type: S60 D3 Summum**.ERSTER BESITZ.WIE NEW** Number of seats: 5 Exact colour designation: white Capacity: 1984 ccm My question to you is, what do I have to consider at 110,000km. When do I have to change the tooth rubbing, what does it look like with DPF, are there also frequent coupling problems with the D3? Also consider combing an S60 D2 drivE 2011 with 114hp and 103.000KM. Private sales, last service at 100,000KM and brakes made new at 11.800Euro What do I have to consider with this model, except r that it is different than the D3 is a PSA contour. I’ve already made a bit of a smart move, but would still be very grateful for tips from experienced Volvo drivers. Greetings from Vienna.