Category: Honda Forum

After some research I wanted to do something good for my MJ2009 Volvo V70 2.4 D Ocean Race 163PS and clean the intake channels a bit. The reason for this was the sporadic bagging of the speed when rolling out and braking before traffic lights at idle speed to approx. 500 rpm-1. Only after complete standstill the speed then increases again to approx. 750 rpm-1. I dismantled the throttle flap and cleaned it with Liqui Moly Diesel system cleaner. I have to say that I have such an aggressive Without advertising, I was very surprised by the effect. So I was able to bring the throttle flap back to high gloss in the developed condition and reassemble it with the old metal seal. In the same train I dismantled the LMM and cleaned it with a brake cleaner, as far as I got there despite the lattice. I cleaned the AGR valve in the built-in condition with cleaner and toothbrush as far as possible. I was able to fix this with a self-made clamp (similar to a threaded clamp for sheet metal or flat plastics) in a clean and freely movable manner. I thought that this error should not occur with the engine any more, as it was optimized? Then the car was driven to operating temperature and half LiquiMoly stuff was sprayed into the air system after the LMM at increased speed. Together with the fuelling of the Fzg. with Diesel Ultimate, I hardly recognize the Volvo. It gains increasing power, especially on the track beyond the 120km/h. So far – so good. Now to the problem: If I want to accelerate from the slightly underrun partial load for a overtaking process or e.g. after the end of a 70km/h limit, the engine unfolds at exactly 80km/h, whether in 5th or 6th gear at about 1500 rpm-1 after a short turbo memory customer, for me until It’s not possible to get out of the car. It’s not possible to get out of the car. It’s not possible to get out of the car. It’s not possible to get out of the car. It’s not possible to get out of the car. It’s impossible to get out of the car. It’s impossible to get out of the car. It’s impossible to get out of the car. It’s impossible to get out of the car. It’s impossible to get out of the car. It’s impossible to get out of the car. When recording with a cheap OBDII device and a smartphone app, it is noticeable that the airflow increases with increasing acceleration and then suddenly falls back to a constant value of 40 (I don’t know the unit now) at the moment of the “emergency run” until the emergency run is out again. Another clean-up after about 1 week with the other half of the LM cleaner took place outside of A little more power no change of the error. Apparently the stuff seems to solve something really, because during the process the car then reported that the DPF was full. A half-hour cleaning drive at higher speeds allowed the error to be extinguished again. Also the reset of the ECUs, AGR system etc. by nightly disconnection of the battery brought no change. For me this makes no sense. Before the cleaning the Fahler has not been there. Now the engine seems to be in a I would now have thought that a sensor would deliver false values or the turbo’s adjustment mechanism would depend on what happened with VW from time to time. I can imagine that in a certain speed range, the blades in the turbo would then be so “unfavorable” in the exhaust current angle that too high a charge pressure would be set up here. Is it a charging pressure regulator, right?

Dear Forum members, Although the change of hydraulic fluid of my V70 has brought improvement, but unfortunately not the TOP result. Now I have the new pump (aftermarket spotcheig) lying here and wanted to listen, has someone already done that alone on the farm/garage/rent workshop and can report about it? I have looked at the whole thing once on ramps, and from below you can hardly get to the pump. probably the removal only, with decrease of the right wheel, remove the wheelhouse shell and removal of the 2 V-belts? From above you get to the two hoses as well as the 3 nuts that hold the pump. Is the thought course right? I thank you for your input, would like to make it as inexpensive as possible. New hydraulic fluid as well as nuts, 2 belts and the small green seal are already here. It greets CZEA1989

Moin Gemeinde, my V70 T4, EZ 11/2011, will soon fill up the 175,000 km. So far I am well satisfied with it. The only major damage was the replacement of the Powershift transmission shortly after the purchase in 2016 at around 86,000 km. The cost of 5,500 € has taken over the guarantee insurance. In the last almost three years I captured three sheet metal damages, which were only partially repaired. Around 8,000 € net insurance compensation is already on the savings book. In January, the large inspection with timing belt change is scheduled for €1,200. In March and September, a total of €1,100 VAT refunds from the above mentioned sheet metal damages expire. In November, we go to TÜV (renewing the chassis parts?). And the power shift transmission also doesn’t always turn back. Everything would be a good time for a change of vehicle. Even the OHL can make friends with it. As a Volvo, only the V70 is eligible (V60 I to small, V90 too big, V60 II still too expensive; budget approx. 20,000 €). Otherwise it runs out on Mercedes C-Class (if the space is enough) or VW Passat. I like to drive gasoline, but you have to look for it with the magnifying glass. From the last years of construction only the D4 VEA comes into question. Does the exchange make sense? Better repair the T4? What would you do?

Moin, today when driving up a lot of me, that the leather on the steering wheel is “porous” on a length of about 10cm. So it is clear to feel, at least if one strokes with the hand in one direction over it. Is there something known? Can such a thing be “mal”? Will Volvo exchange the steering wheel on guarantee, the car is only one and a half years old. Be present tomorrow at the friendly presentation.

When I close my driver’s door with my XC70, it sounds more and more metallized lately. The usual sound of a la Plopp is no longer there. I have therefore solved the door trap for a trial and laid it about 2mm inwards and tightened it. Now it is again popping but the door is no longer flush with the body, but just this 2mm further in it. Can it be that the door seal is already flattened and therefore no longer works as a buffer t? A new rubber costs 100 euros. Too much to change on suspicion. Thank you.

After the disappointment about the very unhomogeneous sound of the plant, I researched for some time what one can do with reasonable effort. (Different Volvos previously with satisfactory audio sound) Helix PP50 dsp seemed to be the most appropriate candidate. After searching for dealers with converted vehicle for prior/after determination, I took the step today. The result is convincing, if it mercilessly reveals the defective high altitude in the mirror triangle. arvt. A more detailed description follows. Prior- No cable is cut. If interested I will report more closely.