Hello I’ve been driving Pirelli for 60,000 km all-year tires. Now they’re on the front axle and I need new ones. I didn’t think it would be so difficult. Volvo and another tire service couldn’t find a single size 235-40-18. I also googled it myself and can confirm it. A 3rd tire service was found after a long search. Dr Reifen comes from China and is classified according to tyre service in the middle class. Speed up to 240 km-h. Lt Google ee he good review in many forums. I don’t care about the price. I’d rather have Michelin. But she doesn’t exist. Has anyone already driven this tire? Thanks in advance
Category: Honda Forum
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Your assessment: 850 as a daily driver?
Hello, my V70 II has gone away from me. And now I’m looking for a new one, but I’m also wondering if I should take the opportunity to look for a 850er. Because I’ve always found it “toller” because of the beautiful square front. The question is: can you drive a 850 as a daily driver, and that’s just as carefree as a V70 II? I’ve driven the V70 II several ten thousand kilometers a year, also often fast, i.e. 160-180 km/h. Or do you have to say, that today a 850 is rather a hobby or lover car, but nothing you can “rely” on? Thank you!
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850er than everyday car
I have a general question: I drive my 8 TDI now in the 10th year. The first 8 years there was actually hardly any problem, only maintenance repairs and even wear. Two years ago I had the ZR jumper, where new valves and a new injection pump were installed. This then did not want any more. The fun was not cheap. Since then the TDI drives again without teasing, currently only maintenance and wear. So nothing moving. Now again the annual Urlau b with the family. So pack the station wagon again to the stop and go south (about 2500km in two weeks). I’m already thinking about whether the car has grown to this stress. From the feeling I would say no problem. The car can do this without problems. But from my wife and from the circle of acquaintances there are comments. Which one of you still drives the 8th as a uncompromising everyday car? Also over longer distances. Greeting Holger
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Belt strapper / belt lock? (for child seat mounting)
Hello together Have a question: There are cars where you can pull out the seat belt on the rear seats completely and then activate a kind of belt lock, i.e. if you let it drive in again slowly, the belt can no longer be pulled out and locked directly, thus also without a fast “Ruck”. This is useful e.g. for attaching a child seat with belt, whereby the child seat holds the child with its own belts. I now have such a child seat on the middle seat. n Fondsitz and did not manage to trigger this “lock mechanism”. Am I simply unable or has not the V60? The seat should also be mounted so safely, since in case of a collision the belt is tightened, however, in normal operation I can move the seat back so naturally forward, which would not be possible with a locked belt. Thank you very much for your input Greetings
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Rust on the threshold – how bad it is
Good morning and hello dear forum! I have cast an eye on a V70, nice car, sympathetic salesman, so everything fits. Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa r a car over 20 years old is – needs to be repaired, but is not bad / expensive – no way thanks!
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Windshield V70
Hello, can jmd upload pictures from the decorative strip? Was just in the Volvo workshop, insert new disc. At the transition to the roof I was able to stick my finger through. They wanted to lubricate glue in. Tomorrow there is the next attempt to put in. I would like to have pictures as it should look right. (SO ONE HALS I have……)
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S40 2.0D – sometimes extremely “bocky” motor run?
Servus with each other, now I have the moose since June 2016 and have been driving a good 8,000km since then. So far I am (almost) happy with the car. The equipment has everything you can wish for, the engine is (mostly) a dream – economical and powerful at the same time. Now I have the problem, however, that the engine temporarily (!) is extremely bumpy and unpleasant. The motor running is completely normal – it does not run round, is not louder than otherwise. Like a normal 2.0D For the purpose of clarity, I now call all the details of the fault picture as Bullet-Points: – The transition between load and thrust operation is extremely unsavory. – It can only be switched with a lot of concentration – mostly I can not get it (although I would call myself a good driver). – The “gas removal” (if there is this word) comes with a noticeable delay. So if you go from approx. 20% pedal position completely off the gas, pull the r car still about a short second normally further, as if I were standing on the gas. – The accelerator pedal is extremely sensitive. Hardly one stands only a breath on the pedal, it storms quite loose. (Together with the rest jerked in the city traffic really grueling.) – Under partial load it jerks noticeably. – It also brings only about 70% of its power. – The consumption is also slightly increased. – Often the acceleration is “wavely” with higher gears. (On the AB e.g. he has 1 second 70% Lei the next second only 30%) – as if I was going to “wave movements” on the gas. The power is also more than mau. Now this problem occurs absolutely surprising: Mostly the engine runs beautifully, can be switched pleasantly and softly, runs really clean – as one is usually used to from a 2.0D. Sometimes just the above mentioned error occurs – I could not reconstruct it yet. I used to assume that it was with the low ta In the meantime, the tank level does not matter. A new engine start does not help. A few relevant data about the car: S40 2.0D summum with 136PS/320nm, 09/2005, (apparently) with DPF, now 239,000km above. The last oil service is 8000km. Air filters and diesel filters have been changed before almost 60,000km. (I know, a change is coming soon, however, the number of gas filters and diesel filters has changed recently. iden rather less to do with the error.) Timing belts, V-belts, water pump and alternator are new, the AGR has only recently been cleaned. Now you have no glass ball at home – that’s clear to me. Maybe someone had a similar problem or knows the subject better than me. I am grateful for every (meaningful) hint! Thank you.
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No spare parts / sheets for VOLVO C70 Year of construction 2012 available?
Hello everybody! Is the C70 really a rarity now? (Year of construction 2012!!!) In March 2016 I drove in a truck. My friend did not get the sheet metal from the tailgate (see photo) until now!! mfg Kurt
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XC90 automatic lever like “frozen”
A friendly beginner – Hello to all XC90s ! I’ve been reading “with” for a while since I couldn’t find my problem in any thread.. quickly logged in and started asking. My favorite companion is an XC90 D5 Summum BJ 2007, “Penelope” was taken over in 2008 as an annual car and perfected by the dealer with a stand-up heater ;-). Now to our all-winter again occurring problem that might have developed into a huge problem, SH would not have said on board. The automatic lever cannot be moved out of the P position. The lever seems to be frozen. The engine can be started without any problems. Only when the heater has preheated the car can the lever be placed on D and I can finally drive off. The duration of the preheating phase until the lever works depends on the outside temperature, between 5min until 1h. The workshop master could never find anything, since the car was either already warm or the problem did not occur. The car stopped because of the annual inspection and this problem already overnight on the workshop yard, (allegedly) without starting problems. The solution proposal of the workshop was to change the automatic transmission oil for approx. 180,00 EUR, which I have not yet had to do. On the one hand because this does not fall under the warranty and on the other hand, I have I read that the AG oil never has to be changed. I would be interested in what you mean and whether someone has the same problem / had. Thank you in advance from the wise “preheater”
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Battery spontaneously unloaded // Workshop stunned
Hello together, recently my moose (V70 II BJ 2002) worries me about getting started. Sometimes it is standing unmoved for three days in icy cold and then starts well afterwards, a few days later I drive by car at noon, take it off and in the evening the battery is completely unloaded when trying to start (cause does not really spin, ads flicker, one hears “click”. In the meantime I have three different statements. – Volvo dealer (using Volvo’s own measuring device on the vo – Battery dealer (measured by multimeter and “banner” measuring device): battery top i.o..; LiMa defective (13,x Volt) Finally, I drove to a car workshop with electrics specialization… there the charging power of the LiMA (voltage & ampere) was measured and found to be OK. Also, the resting current was completely in the green area, no consumers still used the juice of the stationary car. There they could not tell me why the car occasionally makes the grease. I have the quiet assumption that there is a connection with the heater, in two of three situations I had to run the heater before the start process, which can of course also be a coincidence. By the way, the battery is a banner 95AH battery which is just one year old. Alternator supplies according to print 140AH.