Category: Honda Forum

As I wrote in advance, I’ve been looking for a Volvo V 70. One of them, the V 70 of 97 with 295000km mileage and 144 hp, I’ve been trying it out for a few days now, from a friend of my parents. It makes a very good impression in itself. I drove it for 2 days in the city and road traffic without any problems. Yesterday I went on the highway for the first time. On the way to about 120 km the car ran smoothly. On the way back I had a problem however. Ic h try to describe it as well as possible: At some point I had to switch to the 4th gear and wanted to accelerate again afterwards. Normally it is with the accelerator pedal that one pushes it dosed down and drives the car forward according to the strength of the pressure. Yesterday, however, it was so that if I wanted to give full throttle and pushed the pedal through, no corresponding increased speed increase took place but I put the pedal through In the first few seconds, however, the car didn’t attract very much and out to the rear (gas pedal was about 1-2 sec. fully pressed) only unfolded its full power. Until the first gear, it was the same for all gears. In the second gear, speed up = accelerator pedal fully through 2 sec, then it starts to pull. In the third gear, “” In the fourth gear, etc. I always have this only when the car is warm. I start it in the morning and drive only 15 min. the problem does not occur and it accelerates evenly in all gears and according to the pressure of the accelerator pedal. Motor lights also show nothing. What can this be. If you have further questions for more detailed description just write. Thanks already!

Hello guys, I’m looking for my C 70 Coupe the two corners of the window frame of the rear window, sitting up left and right, or but the part number of the two corners, my friend can’t find the part. Greeting Peter

Moin, have a 850 from 1994 with B5252S engine. He dies stump off at idle, however, differently fast. Sometimes not at all. If you pull the petrol pump relay he dies slowly. Interesting is that the gas train was so tightly turned that the DK at the zero screw had almost 2mm distance which I disliked. Did it correct with the result that if you give a hint of gas from the zero position of the cars so exits. If you quickly get over this point he runs away. So fal I can run it in idle mode and also drive it (on the farm). As already mentioned, it goes out sporadically in idle mode. I measured at the pot of the flap but unfortunately no comparison car and no values. No. of the Dk is: 3507526 and the number of the pot is: 0 280 122 001. Would like to measure if it is so ok to exclude this. I have now clamped a light bulb in parallel on + and – the ignition coil. Let’s see what happens then. Vllt it is yes also the KW sensor!? Greeting Joe

Moin together! The thread title actually gives everything, but I like to explain again: I have a 92er 854 with 2.5l 20v machine as automatic. The car has (ununderstandably ) just got new TÜV. But I have a number of problems with the car and would need expert help to make an inventory of the necessary repairs. I have already invested a lot in the car, am also willing to invest another rod money if I only knew, where and above all, in what order (what is the most important thing?). I try to describe the problems of the car I know: 1. Car goes sporadically at the traffic light or in the “roll to the traffic light”. Passes me very irregularly, sometimes 2 times a week, sometimes for weeks not at all. Presumably a dying camshaft or crankshaft sensor or something like that, but doesn’t know how to test it. Gasoline pump relay is just new 2. My entire chassis seems to be front and rear Sometimes it squeaks in the curve (probably my somewhat “strange” transverse stabilizer), the driving feeling is rather spongy, on the rear axle I have the feeling to drive with leaf springs, because I feel that it is very hard, on the front axle it pins down to the steering wheel pure with the smallest unevenness etc. In mid 2013 he got new crossbars, new coupling bars and new crossbar bushings 3. I guess at the rear right still a “feeled” brake caliper, If the wheel is mounted, the wheel can be turned much heavier than the others. If you use the statement, whether you can work the caliper still or better directly for another. Brakes are made complete in February (covers and discs) front and rear (all original ATE). At the TÜV on the “Rappelbühne” he has done well, however, there are various things not in order. I would drive the car further if I did not invest thousands of Euros now. I screw as well as I can, but I also know when I can’t get any further or when I should let a professional get on. I would, if someone from the Cologne area finds himself, who might help me, rent a self-screw workshop with a stage, so that you can (after an extensive test drive, maybe it is so hard from home? ) take stock of what is going on with bushings, dampers, springs, saddles, stabis and bearings. Then I can decide, what is the difference? I just don’t trust myself. Maybe someone knows someone who knows someone? Of course you can talk about financial compensation for the trouble… Greeting 850-SIG