Yesterday my thick ship filled the 50,000 kilometers. My experiences: I LOVE the VEA with the 8 gear GT. Had it not been for 3 years to dream that I could live without 5 cylinders. But quite honestly: I would not want to change any more. Fuel consumption of well below 6 liters/100km is the rule. Due to the double charge, in every speed range always enough torque. Completely quiet running culture. The GT always switches clean and accurate (has definitely DSG Charakte r). No annoying grinding of the gears. The Polestar optimization also ensures the small extra kick. Defects occurred in 3 years/50,000km: 1 x new AGR software (guarantee) 1 x new main battery (100% on culant) 2 x new windscreen wipers 🙂 Soon the brakes at the HA are due. I have not regretted to have got another of the last S80. In truth an old car, but still I love it.
Category: Honda Forum
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Replacement water pump at 240 TKM
Recently, after a long time, it was again at a Volvo workshop for the 240 TKM inspection. The timing belt should be changed. What did not happen was the simultaneous replacement of the WaPu, as this should not have been necessary. To this end, I received later from another car.-Master the indication that an age-weak WaPu carries the risk of destroying the timing belt in case of a defect, which in turn could cause an engine damage. I exchange the WaPu with the corresponding follow-up costs (approx. 450 €). Is this risk really given, so the proposal should be followed?
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18 inches on 30mm deeper convertible: Yes or rather use 17 inches?
Hello together, Actually I was already sure that I would like to screw 17 Zollr on my convertible again. I am no longer so sure anymore…. Whether not 18 inches look better. I have already used the search and found this thread which is already quite old. Therefore I want to open a new one. Does anyone have experiences with 18 Zollr on the convertible? The previous owner had the convertible lower by 30mm. Should you rather put the 17s on it or change it Do the 18 customs officers not change the driving behaviour negatively? Thank you for your answers!
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No 18″ alus for v70d5 ???
hello people, I was yesterday at a rim/tire dealer and wanted to buy me just alu rims in 18″ and a tire with 235/40R18. but then the disillusionment. the dealer scratched a 500 page catalog and found in it a single alu rim for my v70d7 bj 06/04. then I presented him an abe of the borbet fs in 18″. the dealer kicked the abe through where also my volvo “type s” is in it. he told me that it was for the rims in connection with my vehicle I found about five rims from different companies like oz, borbet, and in the abe`s there is always almost the same thing. I had chosen: oz, Michelangelo II PL oz, Ultraleggera oz, Superturismo GT borbet, Design FS you might have ideas or suggestions for 18″ rims for the above car where you don’t draw any wheelboxes m Thank you so much, groove024
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Disable immobiliser
Hello dear Volvo community, for those who now seem familiar, I have started the article with the Volvo 850 t5 ́96, which has no spark and no fuel. Since I have already got everything I will keep here for a short time now… I have volgendes problem: motor turns, all sensors function (all crosswise exchanged with my second lch), fuel arrives in the rail with the nozzles and also 3 bar, MKL lights up, MSG functions and is also second working available , I have a working antenna ring, no bugs in the memory (as far as that’s all I could turn out by various means). Nevertheless, the injection nozzles do not get a signal injected and the ignition coil does not spark. The symphtoms look to me as if the immobilizer has no desire or both keys have suddenly forgotten their signal… Now my question: is there someone who has already experienced this? can you find out if the S If no can I re-learn them? Or does someone know how to just put the immobilizer out of combat? Look forward to your answers Greeting Lucas
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Temperature dependent poltern front axle left ?????????
Hello, someone already with temperature-dependent poltern, ie at warmer temperatures experience (at cooler outside temperatures no poltern) made????? At about 14 degrees a poltern occurs at uneven places on the front axle left a loud poltern, Stabis, axle screw, axle cuffs, dome bearings, engine suspension etc. has already been checked and found to be in order.
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Moose “rotts” on the road
Evening together! 3 weeks ago I bought a 96er combo for my soda (see signature). Actually I wanted to sell the soda then, but at the moment I am glad that I still have it, because: Yesterday with the combo on the train at a slim 140Km/h. All of a sudden the MKL goes on without further symptoms. I immediately went down to 80Km/h and the next parking lot. There the hood up and all vacuum hoses, as far as reachable, checked whether something went off. For me reachable plug connections also sometimes all checked from time to time for corrosion. Nix. After that gently with 80Km/h home. Today I wanted to take a closer look at the thing. I checked again all accessable plugs, without finding out. I started the car several times and turned it off again, each to check whether the MKL is still burning. At some point I gave up and then discovered the following behind the car: The moose has completely toasted the road (see pictures) and can say the following: – The stuff is quite dry – Looks like oil coal for me or something What’s certain is: the oil trap is closed. Because I did the glove test today and it blows up nicely, besides it presses oil out of a simmering. Then I removed the flame screen today as a first measure. That was before the first start. Can this come about? I can hear you already say: error read out! Yes, I also do, as soon as the already ordered electronic tunes from Reichelt and the OBD2 plug for the Blinkbox to be built, promised Who has an idea about the reddish moose? Greeting 850-SIG
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C70: Scooping points at the top over “B-pillar”
Hello, I’m opening a new thread now, after we had this somewhat hijacked. I have now taken some photos, which show how these scouring spots are created. The culprit is the emptied “hosen rubber” on picture 1, which ensures that the fold does not collapse as intended (picture 2), but much less (picture 3). This leads to the scouring/fixing hook at the console for the lid stop and to the scouring points at the top (picture 4). On picture 5 you can see If you know that the upper part of the stop rubber has already been broken (and the console probably bent a bit).
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XC60 D5 2014 battery
Hello everybody, it’s hardly gonna get cold to make my battery mute. I left it on the charger again today and see if tomorrow morning the whole thing will be a tremor again. My question would be I would like to change the battery myself. Is there anything to consider with the battery in relation to that which has to be learned? If yes I have to make the change with the friendly one. Otherwise I do this myself Since there is no start/stop there is special on the data the battery related nothing to consider? (Ah are taken into account of course ;-)) Do you have particularly good experiences with certain brands? Look forward to your feedback. Greetings
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Advice for a VOLVO newcomer
Hello dear VOLVO community, I am currently looking for a new car. At the moment I imagined a V70III from MJ12. I like the car and the brand and it has the sufficient space for my requirements. With the help of the search I could answer many questions already. However, I found nothing about one topic – and this is the following: Now it is that only one gasoline engine makes economic sense for me. An offer, which is also very good in price was, was a 1.6 180hp. Unfortunately, no one in my vicinity has this model for testing. Is there any experience here, whether the engine on the power side is good enough for the car (mostly dignified, if necessary but brisk driving) and can one say something about the longevity of the unit???? As (NOCH) VW driver you are somewhat damaged with the downsizing engines… Is there anything else special to consider with the V70III? vG