Category: Honda Forum

For about 1.5 years, my coolant display has been showing warnings that the coolant level is low and I should drive to the right. However, there is no loss, rather a vacuum builds up, so that after opening the coolant filler nozzle air flows in and the coolant level builds up again. There are no discolorations on the filler nozzle or liquid losses on or under the engine. About 2 years ago, Volvo thought it could be due to the defective rubber seal on the lid of the E In the late summer of 2020, the same thing happened again and the routes that could be driven without reading the pressure were getting shorter and shorter, from 100km to the last 10km. Then again to Volvo there again large checks (incl. repeated pressure test – without error source). An exchange of the hoses to the coolant balance tank brought peace until 1 week ago. Has anyone already had similar experiences or knows remedy? V Thank you!

I experienced the very first time today how it feels to no longer have fuel in the tank. Residual range according to the tank display 45 km. Thought: “No problem, daughter picked up and then on the way back to the gas station (4 km) and fill up” I hit the hit: After the “45 km” display came at once only —– (with careful driving) and what should I say: “zero” means “zero”, on the way to the gas station it jerked and I literally arrived with the last drop. After refueling, I had a little bit of a scare, after the pressure on the “start” button appeared in the display “Please wait. The engine is started” and the car ordered 10-15 seconds, probably to pump the air out of the system. Now that I know it, I will refuel immediately after the signal “low fuel quantity”, at my VW before, meant “zero” still 10 km…. Greeting Chris

Hello dear forum, at the moment I own a Volvo V50, built in 2008, 1.6 diesel, mileage at approx. 175,000 and use it for long distances with an annual mileage of approx. 40,000 kilometers. Unfortunately, the Volvo soon got through all popular errors in the ADAC breakdown statistics. Defects air conditioning, AGR valve and alternator, constantly the danger of an unloaded battery. The DSTC is constantly out on longer straight highways, especially in northern Germany. Since then, the vulnerability of this vehicle and the Volvo Assistance employees have been very familiar with almost all of them. Due to my driving performance, I need a reliable car. I don’t really want to separate myself from the brand and think about switching to a V70 soon after the V50. I have searched through the numerous contributions in the forum and still have an important detail to clarify. From which model year Volvo has no PSA-T Which model year or diesel engine has the highest mileage and as few abnormalities as possible? How do the vehicles behave qualitatively since Geely joins Volvo? Is there still the famous quality at Volvo or has this slowed down for years? Thank you for your expert contributions in advance.

Hello Together We have reached the 90’000 limit with our XC70 T6 GT well and gladly. Since I did not move the vehicle much in the past (I am dependent on public transport, but this is another construction site 😉 I am not sure if the phenomenon has always been there. When parking I always place the hand brake. When driving away I always release the hand brake by hand. Then drive backwards from the yard and with approx.20/30km/h to the first crossing. If I then b remse, comes a light “crack” through the braking process. Exactly once and then no longer during the entire ride… Has anyone experienced it, or has anyone already noticed it?

Hello dear community! I would have liked to have heard your opinion on the above mentioned topic. I was in a free workshop today and wanted to have the rear brake discs and pads changed at my V60. After half an hour a call came from the workshop that the repair can not be carried out, because a parking brake actuator cannot be brought into the service position. I have to say that both the service brake and the parking brake perfectly without unusual They wanted to explain to me that I need a new brake caliper with actuator motor for just under 500 euros. That can’t be possible, can it? I told them now to reassemble tyres and do nothing.. Does anyone know about it? Can a change of the brake caliper really be necessary if everything else is to be funktoniert? Ask for your opinion.. Thank you!!

I’m looking for a tyre recommendation for the “standard size” on Balder rims (V60 D5). My main focus when choosing tyres is on good, cheap and quiet. Can anyone make a specific recommendation? So far, Michelin summer tyres have been raised. However, despite still a good 4-5mm profile, they have a clear saw tooth formation, which you notice especially on new roads and low speeds on a slightly swinging steering wheel. Premium is so here is only the price. That’s why I’m looking for cheaper alternatives, where of course no “billigschrott” should get on it. I don’t care about the last euro, but the price / performance ratio should be right. VG Verdeboreale

When I wanted to leave this afternoon, the check-in light suddenly lit up the soot filter, see the manual. It is already clear to me that I have to let the particle filter burn free. Only after 1 hour of driving over the highway with a constant 120 – 130 km/h the lamp has still not been used, so I have to assume that the regeneration of the filter has not worked properly. I would be happy if one of you had a solution proposal. Well, if it is relevant, I have a D5 of 08. Greeting from the Lower Rhine