Yes, it is again a “noise-out-of-wheelhouse” fred. Sorry for that, but with the search I did not find Fred who describes my problem. Problem: In mostly slow right curves (90-degree curve in 30-zones e.g.) it clacks very strongly from the left front. It sounds as if something was loose and a screw had at least 1 cm of play. Heavyest noises! In left curves similar sounds come from rehts front, but not so violent. 1. Solution approach: Coupling rods and track rod heads completely renewed. Also axle cuffs outside renewed (drive shaft completely out had and joints controlled – everything ok). No improvement. Everything seems to be fixed and intact in the visible area of the wheelhouse. However, these noises will only come up in curves. If I drive straight out, there is nothing to beat even with large ground waves. Could it be the cathedral bearings after all? Shouldn’t defective cathedral bearings be noticed somehow even with straight-forward journeys Make it cash?
Category: Honda Forum
-
Volvo C70i Cabrio first throttle valve then engine control unit defective cost 2200€
Dear Forum Members My last hope before I sell if at all. I have my Volvo C70 Convertible 193PS automatic 1999Bj 80,000Km But I am absolutely laie please for indulgence. In December 2013, because of illuminating throttle flaps light read out into the city of works. Defective throttle flap but no first mandatory measure. Car drove. (Volvo half-timbered town) 50€ End of Dec. throttle flap lights on then engine block acceleration up to 1000/2000 revolutions. – Extension of throsselkla new software Volvo half-timbered town (approx.500€) January 2014 Again first throttle valve lamp, jerking engine block lock off -Defect in the newly installed software according to Volvo Werkstadt they replayed on Kulanz. mid-January 2014 Again the same !!!! – Call of the Volvo half-timbered town it is not the throttle valve but the engine control repair control with all in total 170€ Therefore the question how can it be first throttle valve then motor control element kaput there e I would be very grateful about help. Alex
-
Cracked the screw of the timing belt tensioner – Question of guilt?
Dear Forum, so far I have read along with you. 2016 was the purchase of a used car. I didn’t want to have to rap it much and needed a reliable car. My grandparents have always driven Volvo, my first one I inherited from them. so a V60 with 110 000 km, BJ 2011, automatic, D3, check-book submitted by Volvo contractors. Purchased from a free Volvo dealer who took over from a Volvo dealership. 2015 was in the latter V-belt and spanner a uf Kulanz. In 2016 he got another V-belt and a handover inspection with transmission oil change. 2017 then for the first inspection at the Volvo contract partner on site with me. Above all interior filters were made, moreover the sockets were on the back soon, otherwise everything good, nice ride, 500 and something € incl. oil change and Naviupdate. 229 km later he stops on an autbahn exit, engine goes out, no more jumps. No warning lights, nothing. There it was said the next day: Timing belts through, we have to evaluate the damage, open the engine costs 500 €, then we look further (either repair for 4900 € or engine replacement for 9400 €). After a bit of research and telephony I ask for the V-belt: half of it is. They don’t want to tell me what is the cause of the whole thing. Slowly I get angry. 10 000 € Repair but one is not ready to make a guess about the cause??? Ver towing the car to a free workshop: they open the timing belt cuff and find an intact timing belt. However, the tensioning roller lies in the cuff. Screw broken. After 125 000 km. Screw through. So there are two scenarios: 1. The screw is crap. A two Euro part does 10 000 € damage. 2. The dissolving V-belt has somehow destroyed the screw. But why does a V-belt dissolve 229 km after the inspection? Is not guaranteed here, Why am I going there? The Volvo partner says: maybe a stone. Only the car is closed at the bottom, there are no stones in the area! Now I am looking for: 1. The cause. 2. The culprit (who takes care of the repair costs). 3. A solution. Do you have ideas/experience values?
-
Attach trailer coupling & connect E-set HELP
Moin together, I would like to upgrade an AHK (Westfalia, removable) to my V70. I trust that the coupling can be installed without any problems, but when connecting the E-Sat I still have “disquiet” – I would take a vehicle-specific AC. Does anyone of you know if these are only plugs for plugging (so also for an electrics layman no problem), or has to connect loose cables to existing cables. Is there a “SUPPORT page! ? Would I be happy if here one of you can give information. Would like to save the 300,- for the cultivation…;-) Thank you and greeting Fossi
-
Volvo V70 R
Moin, I play with the thought of getting a Volvo V70 R, but I’m not really in the topic, only by reading in forums like here for example. That it is a lover car and therefore with costs is quite conscious to me, however I have no idea about the price. I could read that the 2.3 with front drive and hand shift are very popular and so I found the following car. I found this offer at mobile.de:https:/ /m.mobile.de/…/details.html?… Volvo V70 R First registration: 07/1997 Kilometer: 314.752 km Fuel: petrol Price: 6.700 € Would be nice if someone could tell me something about it. Best regards and thank you very much!
-
Floor mats?
Hello, Since my driver mat looks kind of rough, I look for new ones. Unfortunately, so it seems, there are always complete sets with mats at the back. Apart from many mats from third-party manufacturers I find hardly anything in the net (admittedly, I have not yet made it to the dealer …) The current mats – oh yes, it is a V70 Bj 2008) are already quite thin. In my former V70 the parts were always nice thick and pulled up at the edge. Son thin stuff wi i didn’t know that in the current car. Therefore, the question whether someone has a tip – a neat mat – as far as possible only the front … Thanks and a nice weekend Frank
-
V70 – D5 vs. D4?
Dear Volvo friends, I have a V70 D5 Momentum with 185 HP, EZ 06/2008 and 140,000 Km with which I am very satisfied. Now my friend offered me this V70 for a surcharge of 4,000.http://suchen.mobile.de/…/details.html?… Now I am unsure. He has more kilometers but 5 years younger. What do you think? Should I accept the offer? Thank you for your help Andreas
-
1-2 questions about the XC 60
Moin moin. We are close to an XC 60 to Leasen, at the moment we are still driving Tiguan. My questions to the experienced Volvo drivers, it is worth taking the family package? Children are 7-9? Sounds good with the seats. Then still to drive? Diesel 190 ps with or without all-wheel drive? Or the petrol engine? Of the mileage we are full in the petrol range (about 12000 per year). Planned is an XC 60 R design in brown metallic. 20 inches, everything at assistants as well as harman and kardon soun. d. Panorama roof ect.
-
Wheels 19″ and 235/35R19
Hello, I plan to buy new tyres 235/35R19 incl. rims for the summer. Now my question, are steering fittings/limiters necessary? So far I have installed the 225/55R16.
-
Problems / defect heatable windshield
Moin, I hope you can help me. Our elk is in Lower Saxony and always under a carport, so that an icy windshield has absolute rarity value. Today it was at least a little frozen with the elk, so that my wife wanted to try the front window heating this morning, but then scratched again, because nothing happened. Tonight I wanted to try if you can at least “feel” the disc heating, outside temperature Ca minus 2.5 degrees. In urban traffic, I always felt the disc temperature by hand at the traffic lights, inside and outside. At other electric consumers only the driver’s seat heating ran. Inside I had the feeling that it became minimally warm, but I could also be wrong, because I had only set the ventilation to 0 after about 2 minutes. From the outside there was no difference to feel the side windows. Besides, I noticed that the disc heating turned off after 3-4 minutes independently (have s After what I have read here about the de-icing effect one should also feel the heating power or? Automatic switching off is also in the operating instructions, but this should take place at the earliest after 10 minutes or? Do you have an idea where the error lies? “Does” the disc, if there is no ice and does not work? If it does not work, it would be in the error memory and can be read out, or can one d I hope you have an idea.