Hello, I renewed the windows and blocks on the rear axle a few weeks ago. I drove without problems a few weeks ago. I noticed recently that the car on the mountain seems to lack a few hp. The brake on the rear left was very hot and stank burned. I looked at the handbrake rope that was stuck. So I changed the ropes on both sides and made the handbrake adjustment very loose for the time being. Nevertheless, the brakes on the rear were still warmer than that was the case in the past. On that I completely set the brake calipers back (pistons and bolts on both sides absolutely common!!) They are now no longer excessively hot, but still more than it used to be and above all much warmer than the front brakes. How can this be and what can you do about it? The last theory that comes to mind is that the brakes in the rear are very smooth and the front is not, which causes more braking power to be applied at the rear than in the back. Usually, which makes it warmer at the back. So just check the front pistons and bolts of the saddles for consistency?
Category: Honda Forum
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Crack while steering
Hello! My V40 seems to be an infinite story about defects Now that I thought everything was OK, the next thing comes: it cracks while driving – when driving as well as in the stand. If I want to park for example and stand it when hitting the steering wheel: “Knack… Knack…Knack.” (no matter which direction) And even when driving this noise is there. Two weeks ago, both springs were renewed in front, 3 months ago the drive shaft joints included discs and brake pads. Could there be again now???? Power steering??? Any bearings?? Greetings
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Question about frictional brake
Hello together, in advance…. the SuFu was used, but didn’t make me any smarter. I also got the phenomenon on my moose that it jerks and rubs when braking. As the first measure the crossbars were exchanged on both sides because they were over. Schwubs, old out and new in. The jerking actually became less. However, it is still clearly present in braking from high speeds. I now type that it is about the brake discs. One of the small countersunk head screws that hold the brake disc in position. I can’t detect any movement in the disc when the wheels are mounted, but very well when the wheel is dismantled. Is that normal? Can it be that the scratching comes from braking? I also have quite strange brake discs on it. They have a “ventilation groove”. Do you have that too or is it such a strange tuning part that no one needs? My previous owner had where Hl a little tuning spleen that I have been able to gradually rebuild so far. I also have the feeling that the tumbling occurs differently. Does anyone know what?
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Error code not readable, ABS and motor lamp light, engine emergency run, heating is not possible
Moin, I’ve read many tips here and I hope the forum can help me. In short, the facts: Volvo V70 (I), 2.5l diesel (144hp), automatic, year 99. I have several problems that are probably connected somehow: On the one hand, when driving, the motor, ABS and brake lamp, tacho and DZM fail. Partially, the automatic arrow still flashes. This happens when the car is warm or it is warm outside. Leave a night and when it restarts, it’s all right. The assumption went to cold soldering points in the ABS control unit. Therefore control unit changed, nevertheless problem present. Readers (in free workshop AND at Volvo) connected, no one comes in to read or delete error code. In addition, my heating is without function. Control for the heating / air conditioning replaced, the same problem remains. I can turn on the fan with the slider, temperature control AND air flow flaps however I can not v If the car is driving, it feels like it is running in emergency run, i.e. the engine is driving, but does not have the full power (on the highway approx. 140max), switches late… All in all sea very annoying and unsatisfactory. Does anyone have an idea where I should look again / what should be tested? I can hardly drive with the car (no tacho, no heater, doesn’t pull so much..) Hope to find someone here who would have a hot tip!!! Bin aus Berlin, often also in the Hamburg/Lübeck area on the way THANK YOU IN THE PREPARATION!
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Problem with the Lambda display after empty drive…
Hello guys, I accidentally drove my elch empty, ok, okay, not well, but sometimes it’s only on the last pusher since I always try to fill up under 1,50., sometimes gets scarce 🙂 anyway since the Lambda lights up constantly during the ride, was not before, and He starts irregularly, sometimes quite normal, sometimes bad, and sometimes not at all 🙂 But if He runs then He runs without a problem! someone’s idea what that could be!? before He ran without any problems… I suspect that the memory would have to be deleted, but I have too little idea… anyway I hope to get around the workshop… I am grateful for every tip!!!
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put deeper only with springs possible ? and what does it bring ?
Hey people Have a Volvo 850 komby 20 , 126 ps with normal chassis . When driving in a rough way I notice time and again that the Elich is quite bumpy yet and shameful also tends to oversteer as understeer about so ale you would scour the steering wheel so that it breaks out with the hex , dampers and springs are still quite new . Now I have heard that it should bring what if I put the elk deeper 30 mi should be enough since now I have found deeper leach springs from Einba ch these are but only springs can you take these or that you have to buy new dampers ?? however it is the cheapest wariante to give as still thousands of euros ?? what do you mean however I have front oil pressure damper and back gas pressure happy about every tip
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Error 243 after engine change
Hello guys, a week ago we changed the engine in our 850 MJ 95 (B5252S). So far so good. On Monday morning at 3 o’clock it was so far and the thickness jumped on. Due to the overtiredness when plugging together, I then checked everything again on Monday. The car jumped on worse. I read out the errors and got in response camshaft sensor (314) and throttle flap poti (243). The camshaft sensor I think that the rear NW about a tooth rot In any case, the sensor ran smoothly until it was extended. I will go on next week. But what is worse is the error 243. I have already changed the poti and get the same error after deleting it. Lambda light is on, gas system (KME) shuts off. The car runs on and on itself quite well. Only the consumption is extremely high with 16-17 liters (city). On the highway I am at 120km/h at 9.5 liters. In idle it swings a little and d My question to you: Can you help with the troubleshooting by experience and exclusion? How can I check the cable from the poti to the SG that there is no cable break or something. Ohso, throttle flap I cleaned before installation and the eye test mine that seems to be still OK. I’m not quite sure with the vacuum hoses. In the appendix some pictures to it. Hope you can help me n. Thank you very much Janko
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Repair or not repair?
Hello forum, my V40 1.9TD with 270,000 km has become 13 years old this month, and now a ZKD is broken. The car is actually driving very well, no bump, and rust I have not found yet. However, I got a very tempting offer for a new car and will probably want to say Adieu to the moose. From payment was advised by the car dealer as not profitable. Now I ask myself the following question: Should I still invest the 1.5 TEuro in the repair and then sell it or sell it like that? How much would you want to invest in such a car (i.e. what basis should I take to negotiate with potential buyers)? Look forward to your well-founded advice, which is often proven here!
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S40 2.0 or S40 1.9 T4
Moin die Herren und Damen, I would like to join their club of Volvo owners, but I am totally confused because I can’t really decide for anyone. I have the choice between one: S40 2.0 with 160 hp Bj 98 new timing belts in it. 137,000 km S40 1.9 T4 with 200 hp Bj 98 did not run a new timing belt. 130,000 run Priced is the S40 2.0 a thousand cheaper. Is the with 160 hp from the performance much weaker than the T4? As the T4 is a hell machine. You already realize that I am totally overwhelmed. Search now for a good one for 2 months and I have only until 19.1 time to find something. Hope you can advise me a little. Mfg Moe
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The gossip!
Hello moose driver! Have you read the other day, that the car glass master constantly wanted to be right. But did not find! And what I’m terribly disgusted about. This is never talked about, even of Carrglas not. The front windows are glued into the frame of the cars today. These cars have to stand for more than 24 hours in heated rooms. Until everything is all right! I know from my own experience, the cars stand still for more than 24 hours. How to claim car glass in a few hours is The front windshield is ready to go! How does that work? Are those from the other star you found the other day? Greetings from a moose driver who only drives Volvos: Torsten