Category: Honda Forum

Hello to everyone! Now I have my best and best Volvo (full equipment), which I had up to now, again 3 years. I bought it as a young used from the friendly. Current mileage is 124,900 km and now I would like to push the performance, after I could not get through to it so far, not because of the finances but because of “fear” of durability and increased load of the technology. But the desire for more performance and easier Ausgleic h the starting weakness at low speeds is at the moment quite big ! The questions, which are now up to date : 1) Should one not realize the project with the current mileage perhaps after all, because one should do the tuning perhaps only with newer engines? 2) Is it true that Heico requires 25% less, since the guarantee falls away ?? 3) What changes with the running culture, afterwards it runs rougher/core or this is louder? 4) Or nevertheless prefers to continue the good as until ? What is your assessment ?? Thanks and greetings to all !

Hello together I have a little problem with my S80 (T6 99er). Last week I drove to Italy and when driving back I drove a little bit faster.. 220 – 230… when came the exit I had to take to “unload”.. stopped in front of his house, motor out.. then it came to my mind that I should still run the car so that the turbos can cool down.. motor again.. 2 seconds ran.. is out again.. I thought maybe he didn’t have a sprite anymore. 50 meters further on was a fuel station, until there I arrived still scarcely, full fueled and dan again the same.. after recently studying I found out that my LMM is kaput.. (put out and drove home).. since then I have been on every small drive, even if the car is completely cold, and I drive only 20m and turn off the engine again, the cooler catches to turn. can m I’ll tell you if this could have something to do with the LMM or if that’s different? As long as the temperature stays in the normal range it shouldn’t be harmful for the engine to drive like that or? (clearly driving without LMM isn’t exactly the best for the engine, but LMM is on the road, should be there tomorrow or the day after tomorrow) Temperature stays in the middle range even for longer rides, cool liquid I have enough in it, oil too. would look forward to every tip. not the water pump…

Hello, I have an S80 with D5 engine and 163hp 2005 with automatic. Recently it is negative that the car starts to roar at 80. At 100 you have the highlight so that I have to run my sound package otherwise you get pressure on the ears. At 110 km/h the noise decreases again and at 120 km/h and up it drives as I am used to it from the thick. It doesn’t matter whether I give gas or let the car roll. I would be grateful for every tip I myself The last inspection of the axles came 8 months ago and without any defects. Greeting Christopher.

Hello in the round, I drive a Volvo S60 Bj. 2003 with meanwhile 199,000 km and now with some horror accepted the estimate of the KfZ workshop – occasion is the due TÜV. All-in-all approx. 1.000,-, that can already spoil my vacation! And this looks like the greatest: brake cheeks manual brake renew: 51,- material (TBB set) 87,- work rear silencer renew: 366,- material (end silencer) 31,- work load/manual joint renew left bottom 69,- material (trag) joint) 47,- work joint protective cover re. outside (front axle) renew: 23,- material (joint cuff set wheel.) 127,- work What do you think about it, are these realistic values? (I mean only so, can one or the other have clear concerns. Actually, there is no reason for me to distrust the workshop) I tend to a more favorable solution in the rear silencer: not necessarily eBay test devices, but the part of IMASAF mentioned here in the forum quite often. merhin 120,- below. If someone has a different tip: always come with it! What is a little surprising about the joint cover: so much work for it? What do you think about it? Greeting Ulf (ex 244, ex 850, now s60 … and generally satisfied with the Swedes)