Category: Honda Forum

Hello dear elk hats, now I (or the elk) also got caught by the Brösel virus. Actually, I only wanted to replace the ABS control unit (typical ABS + Tracs error). According to diagnosis code 443 (electrical or mechanical error ABS pump). Well, when I was expanding I had the isolation almost completely of both strippings in my hand. I have read a lot about the phenomenon both here and in the US forum. But I have nowhere found a concrete answer as it is in the end again. This is why I have some questions: 1) How do I get the black cap from the pump without removing the ABS block? Is there a trick in how to remove it from the pump motor? 2) How do I isolate the cables best? Generally, the condition of the copper is still OK. I was able to remove some oxidation products (only above ground) well with contact WL. I have already removed the 2-pin plug housing – so the cables are pinned out. At the ends si This makes the work with shrink hose exciting. I ordered a 4-1 shrink hose now and want to try to get over it with 8 mm ID. But maybe there is also a better procedure? 3) Can you drive the vehicle (in terms of damage to the ABS control unit) without a plugged-in pump? (apart from the fact that defective ABS is never great, but that’s what it is at the moment anyway.) 4) If you do the whole thing very differently like this welten, also gladly with the information. Thank you for your thoughts! A few more pictures, for the posterity. Greetings!

Hello Elchgemeinde. It is again about a ’00 TDI with automatic climate control. We went before without activated air conditioning, with switched on ventilation (faith automatic position) about 1km to shopping. After 2x parking for approx. 10min with slightly opened windows and 40m between the parking lots, it smelled when getting on to rotted plastic. Short check behind the radio (had recently built a new radio, therefore the glove compartment was already outside) climate control part and below After 10 meters of driving, plastic smoke blew towards me through the two middle nozzles. The shock sat and I immediately switched off the ignition and the children evacuated or can do it quite well themselves. I checked afterwards: the fan, the radio and the air conditioning unit. I left the latter outside and removed the plug at the rear of the air conditioning box (picture) and drove home without having to smoke again. 1. I Can this happen if the control flap adjustment has never been performed? I have heard a flapper/running probably the control motors in the dashboard from time to time. Nozzle adjustment via dial wheel has been problem-free so far. 3. How do I proceed now? 4. Can the ventilation/climate be used for the first time if the control position remains in a position so that the control motor is not controlled again and completely burns? Or is it a bit ga Thank you for your help.

Hello, so after some errors are fixed now on the v70, it goes on! The belt warner ! Mine is without Funkion! Was there always the side in the V70? With me under the seat these cables arrive..The seats are from the facelift. The thick cables for the seat heating arrive, and on the same plug the thinner black ones..knows someone, if these thin cables are for the belt warner? Was there any differences? Because there is a bridge in there, what surprises me. n is also cut open and wrapped with insulating tape. Is the original so? Have a nice weekend for you

There is still (hopefully ?) a whole herd of moose drivers, which have a model with the BlinkBox A/B in front. I am here again something to craft, for which I must necessarily have the dimensions of the contacts to each other, as well as to the respective inner edges of the boxes – i.e. distances row/column as well as the max. dimension X/Y of a board, which fits into the boxes A/B. Also important the diameter and length of the test pen. Who is sometimes so nice, and can sketch this for me -pl us some good pics of the box ?

Luck On with each other, I’m here again with a question. The Volvo spins off its kilometers as if it were from yesterday, the hammer. But one thing I find a bit disturbing now, that I can’t switch through gently, i.e. from the two to the three, as well as from the four to the five, actually in all aisles There is always a certain resistance, only with a small pause in idle, i.e. in the middle of the switching process, I can continue to switch, especially if you have a little more L Is it possible to re-create it? I have also noticed that I have a relatively large game in the differential, if I turn the one wheel, it takes a long time to hit the opposite or it turns against the direction. Is there something defective? You can also notice this when driving, in the 3rd gear with thirty km/h it jerks something, the path hissing off and driving is a little big. Now it has a good 310,000 km down, should I have the gearbox reworked? Dan ke many greetings and nice weekend Ronny

soderle, ich mal wieder………… bei gas gibt knackts vorne im Gebälg und beim gas abnahme kommen und hören ich wie something vorend zwischen knocking/ schlagend gegen something , tap on the motor support frame of the c70 cab. As soon as this sound comes to take off the gas again light gas there is gone. Motor lifts up when giving gas, and lowers when taking away. So logically that the bearings are probably gone. Someone similar experienced? And if yes, best source w o can I order the parts?

Hello, dears 🙂 I will be 18 in a few days and would like to buy me as first car primarily a 850 or V70 in the price range 1000,- – 1500€. I have covered 2000 € for repairs, fuel and everything that comes with it. So I actually have a budget of 350€, but I don’t want to spend so much money on one, because I heard that they have to be in a top condition. A T5 should not be necessarily now, they eat like hell fuel, I suppose, but the with 140 hp engine seem to be all right. Do you have any recommendations for me? Greetings Moritz PS: Have no problems with the dimensions of a Volvo