MOTOR-TALK

Category: Honda Forum

  • Cruise retrofitted, but problem

    Hello to the round, I wanted to upgrade the cruiser today with my 850 switch. Up to the last cable I got through great, because in the net there is an almost perfect, strongly illustrated instruction (don’t know the link). Just almost perfect, because a tiny wire harness is not described there further (Fig. 1). While I was immediately clear from the plug shape, which are the two pedal switch plugs, it is vaguely clear to me that the yellow plug should probably replace the yellow one present at the brake pedal switch. But it is completely unclear to me – even after many hours and exhausting study of the WHB (Fig. 2) – where the large white plug belongs… Can someone help me there? Maybe with a picture? Thank you in advance… Best greetings from the southern north Hessen from the beach of the Fulda, Axel

  • B5244T replacement engine

    So, here I am, fresh and new in the world of this forum and in the Volvo Turbos…. Recently I am the owner of a Volvo V70 2.5T AWD (142kw) And since the problems start car is great, runs super, doesn’t want to miss it anymore. Sorry, ran super. Because: the crankshaft housing is leaking. Disassemble and seal? What if you find out that the parts of the crankcase are pulled away? Because the car is fully equipped and otherwise in super condition, I want to invest money and build it up. But I think rather to get another engine needed, to have it overhauled at the capable engine builder, and then swap. But, I don’t find a single B5244T3 only (147kW). Or B5254T (will otherwise be indicated with the same performance?!) Can I take one of these substitutes? Who knows capable engine builders who might take less than 3000,-€ for such an action. Sure, the performance may eventually be higher (thinking 250 hp) I will not hope…

  • V70 Problems when switching spark plugs

    The second thing I had to say was that I had to change the spark plugs with my V70 Bj 99 and 400,000 km, because the engine was running unround and not quiet. After I had the cover down, everything swam in a small oil pool (except for the outer cylinders). I took the oil with a cloth and then saw that these small cable hoses (black and so ripped) were completely porous and at 90% of the places were blown away. This rest I blew out with compressed air before I put off the connection to the spark plugs. Unfortunately, the workshop did not do that at the last change. In all spark plug shafts there was too much brute stuff. I blew it out with compressed air so well, but also under the sealings of the candles it was already, of course nicely stuck. I did not trust now with the open access to the combustion room to get too strong and first the new candles so screwed up. First question: Did someone have a good idea how to clean up that there? Can the bad run of the oil just come off of course.

  • Error codes

    Moin, I have read out the following permanate error codes. After the deletion, the again… MKL does not light up. ECM-1200 intake air temperature sensor. Signal too high / signal too low ECM-170F air pressure sensor/charge pressure sensor – range check / wrong signal ECM-1600 charging pressure sensor. Signal too high / signal too low Have a little Googleled around, on an English-language volvo forum the last two errors occurred with someone. the culprit is supposed to be a “MAP sensor”. Does this sensor also have a different designation and where is it located ? what looks like with the intake air temperature sensor … a follow-up error from the map sensor ? and benefits, if something like that does not have to light up the MKL ?

  • Volvo V50 2.0D ECM-0380 Memory error

    Hello! I read out my Volvo V50 at VIDA 2014D today. I found the following bugs in the memory: “ECM-0380 Glow Candle Relay Faulty Signal” I have to say, since I have the car (about 3 years), it sometimes starts a bit bad. So that I have to try 2-4 times. So I guess 1 to 2 times in the quarter he does the above mentioned problems when starting the engine. Now that I know that there is something wrong there, I would like to fix it, can one tell me what it is? VIDA suggests the following: -Check the free run on the alternator (which is ok and easily brings 14,4v) -Check the fuses (WELCHE?!!) – Plug, A-pillar, Oxidation (what does a cable that goes into the door have to do with glow candles?!!) Has one of you already had the error?

  • What happens if I do NOT use the standardized oil standard (guarantee)

    Hello all, my V70 has to be for the 60,000 ́ inspection. Now I have a cheap oil source (man bugs me this mischief) Now I have another year (connection) guarantee and on the oil bottle stands Not this ACEA standard A5/B5 but A3/B3/B4/C3 The soup is called Castrol EDGE Turbodiesel SAE 0W30 (especially for turbodiesel and soot particulate filters) Can something happen to me with regard to the warranty in case of engine damage? If yes, I pick up the oil for a year later. But this is an absolutely high-quality expensive brand oil. What do you mean?

  • CO2-neutral – but please do!

    The other night around 10 in Germany (on the side of a very large insurance company): Quotation: “… ECOmotion – Actively contribute to climate protection and drive CO2-neutral! With ECOmotion you have the opportunity to actively contribute to climate protection: By acquiring a CO2 reduction certificate you participate directly in projects that reduce the global CO2 emissions. Your contribution to the reduction certificate is so measured that the CO2 emissions of your vehicle are compensated mathematically and the equivalent value is invested directly in climate protection. In this way you drive CO2-neutral. Yes, I invest the following contribution and drive with my vehicle CO2-neutral. Your vehicle: Volvo – S (V 70 COMBI 2.4 D5 AWD) Your contribution: 89.96 Euro …” Yes clearly, the board needs more money, I like to follow this donation call… still jumping on the chair – the manateee

  • Purchase advice C70

    Dear community I would like to buy a new, used car. The C70 of the year of construction from 2006 fits into my budget and I really like it. My desired motorization is the T5 with 220 hp, maybe also the 2.4i. Please tell me: – Are there weak points/macks, which I have to pay attention to when buying? – The top mechanism seems a bit shaky to me, does it do what? – Which components could cause trouble from 100,000 km times (turbo, cover etc.)? – What do the usual inspections cost and how often do they have to be carried out? – How much is the actual consumption? – Is the gas conversion useful (reserverad tub)? I thank you already for your helpful answers.

  • Purchase advice Volvo V60 T5 BJ 2011

    Hello Together So far I only know the vehicles of the VW Group. I drove a Golf 6 GTI and at the moment I own a Golf 7 Variant 1.4 TSI. Unfortunately, my current problem, probably the mechatronics has to be replaced. I bought the vehicle only about 6 months ago. Since I already had problems with the 6 Golf, I want to get away from the VW Group and myself a Volvo because they obviously build very reliable vehicles. I have a Volvo V60 T5 (2.0T 240PS) in my sights, however, this seems to be an exotic, there are hardly any contributions about this car available. Does any of you have any experience with this vehicle? Kilometer level is at almost 100’000km. Is it reliable? Does it make the 200’000 loose? Known problems? Things to consider when buying? Thank you already in advance!

  • Tacho fails or fluctuates

    Hello, I am now also a Volvo 850 (855) driver (had the faxes with the Corsa B 1.0 12V thick) So since the car EZ 05.05.1994 he also has something here, as the first Tacho said speed and kilometers did not go odometer I ordered the small “diamonds” for approx. 16€ incl. shipping and built to my amazement went now also the speed indicator ok then he still got an interior fan and suitable speed control (used) got and then the climate ran without complaining. Now I had to unfortunately find that the speed indicator fails if mann accelerates more hm. well must be irgentwo at the gear a sensor but did not find any out crankshaft sensor and return drive switch. The lines yellow-green and yellow-brown slid free around and at the second please brown is a black line with cutting clamp (bandit) and goes very wildly to the ABS control device there can be on the 55-pin plug and indeed on the sensor line is not on a brown-pin too much.