Hello together, after the demise of VOLVO 1 (the 144er from quite earlier not counted) I found on the net a “new” 850er in the Netherlands. Is this going well with the cross-border business? First contact by mail. In a mixture of Dutch, English and German we arranged a viewing date and soon agreed. Nice, trust-raising seller. But how does it work now with the “paper stuff”? To this one must know that settle down The Dutch side In the Netherlands, each vehicle retains its registration number for life. Then there is the RDW in the Netherlands. This is an authority responsible for both registration and technical inspection. So to speak, road traffic office and TÜV/DEKRA/GTÜ in one! Genius! The seller explained to me how a car sales in the Netherlands is going on. Adds a chip card (“Kentkenbewijs, deel 1” / corresponds to our vehicle license) and a PIN. You can go to an RDW station, enter his PIN there and in 5 minutes the car changed its owner. This can be done e.g. at the post office or in the supermarket at 22:00. For export it is more complicated. We drove together to the RDW to Maastricht. I set myself up for long waiting times. We enter the RDW building. At the entrance a board with 3 buttons: “Without A nanmeldung” / “With registration” / “Export”. The seller presses on “Export”, a number comes from the printer. As with us … I think. But then: a small waiting room, 3 switches, only 2 people wait. Hardly we entered, our call number and a nice lady comes to a counter. The seller issues his chip card, I have to present my identity card. Whether I want a short-term license plate incl. insurance? (The German short-term license plate has no validity in the Niede I don’t need that because I pick up the car with a trailer. Then I get a document (“Kentkenbewijs deel 2”, in which the chip card devalued by cutting a corner is inserted and in which I am registered as a new owner. Fee: 9.95 €. ID back. “I wish you a good trip.” Hard to believe. Everything is done including “waiting time” in less than 10 minutes! Minimum costs! You want to be Dutch! The German side Gut dah eim arried. Car unloaded. Trailer returned. Electronic insurance number requested. Phone call to the road traffic office: How does this work with an import vehicle from the Netherlands? “You need the ZLB1 and ZLB2 and an eVB number.” Sure. But then: also the purchase contract, a CoC paper, a FIN and data compliance certificate, a German HU/AU investigation. Otherwise, an approval is not possible … BUY CONTRACT? Why that? According to the official Niederl I’m the new owner of a new document! But our road traffic office does not accept it. What a lunatic idea! So I put on a German-Dutch contract, mail it to the seller and get it back shortly afterwards. All newer vehicles today have a CoC CERTIFICATE. The 850s not yet. Can you ask the friendly one. He wants to have about 200.– € for it. There I drive first without again from the yard. In the local inspection office I place the papers vo In addition, the old car letter contains an EU type-approval for “LS5102”. Both identification numbers contain this type designation. Thus, the type-approval should probably also apply to the new moose. The test engineer is inclined to follow my reasoning. In addition, he said that a single acceptance might be more favourable than the CoC certification. g and replace them. I’m lucky: Since the registration office does not want to give me an unstamped registration number, the test center lends me its red number. So I can show the car. Another lucky thing: a badge with EU type-approval is attached in the engine compartment. So neither CoC-Paper (200.– €) nor individual acceptance (min. 150.– €) necessary! A HU/AU is carried out. The Fzg-Ident-No. is checked. I get the FIN- and data approval certificate. AU passed, HU unfortunately not: the hand brake pulls one side = considerable lack = re-show required. Powers together 159.– €. First I can bring the car back home with the red number. But how do I get to the workshop and then back to the re-examination? According to German law, if the insurance company approves the eVB certificate, you can also get an approval for unstamped registration plates. This applies to all journeys in connection with the registration, to HU, to W again call to the nice lady from the road traffic office. “You have almost all the documents together now, so we can allow the vehicle for the time being with unstamped registration plates. You can then drive to the workshop with them.” Now you have to know that here in Hagen all the civil offices were closed. There you could make earlier unbureaucratic and quick registrations in the district. Now you have to drive about 12 km to the office. Dor The machine was switched off with the call numbers. Instead, a “pre-testing station” was set up with only one force, where one has to present his request in front of the entire waiting zone. This then hand out waiting numbers. Then follow approx. 3 and more hours waiting in a large crowd, because of the approx. 20 offices are always occupied only 2-3. Without vacation it does not work. Since in my workshop also once the week of the TÜV comes to the inspection, the TÜV could nevertheless after “No, that’s not possible! You will receive a demonstration notice at the time of the preliminary approval and then you will have to come by again to attach the plaque.” In other words: take it again, pre-examination office, wait for hours … Then I could hire a registration service, was my hope. “No, that’s not possible either. You have to sign a special form yourself.” I made completely unnerved. I am on my way to the registration office today. Half a day off. Ultimately, the “pre-examination office” failed: “You need proof of a passed HU!” “I want a preliminary approval to drive to the workshop with unstamped registration plates and demonstration notice to get the HU certificate.” “You need a passed HU or an analogue certificate!” keyword “analog certificate”. No one had said anything about this before. HU-Report (“Keuringsrapport” … because the Dutch HU would have expired soon and I had to go to the inspection office anyway (because of ASU / FIN and data compliance certificate), I did not even get involved in a discussion about this point during my telephone request. “But I spoke to your colleague Mrs XXX twice in advance, who promised me that I would receive a provisional authorisation!” – “You can’t know everything either!” I repeat my argument. she tries to reach the colleague in question. This does not decrease. After that, she tries it at “the boss” – nobody there. Then “the boss” – nobody there. Then she reaches someone (“our senior colleague”). That is her opinion … Again I try to explain to her the legal situation. For that is a preliminary admission after all. Answer: “Yes, but not with import!” If behind one is an impatient human snake and about 40 people are interested It is not possible to clarify such a situation with an ignorant and uncooperative employee. She still has a good advice for me: “You can apply for a short-term registration mark!” (= Wait + charge + make registration plates + resubmit after the post-examination …). No thanks! Completely annoyed I decide to solve the problem differently. I will rent a car trailer again so that he can bring the moose to the workshop. The whole paperwork I then hand over to a registration service. By bus we go to the workshop, attach license plates, leave … finally. Greetings Jürgen
Category: Honda Forum
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Motor control light / workshop tip Frankfurt am Main
Hello together, at my V70 the engine control light has been burning for two months after I was put on with the car. As it happened on vacation, I called the ADAC. They sent a mechanic over, we looked at the car from below. There were no serious damage. At home I looked again with a friend and we discover a bigger crack in the Krummer. So cast manifolds exchanged for steel manifolds including cat. Light continues to burn. Does anyone have an idea what else that could be? Lambasonde? And a second question: Since the mechanic could not read the car on vacation anymore, I am looking for a good workshop in Frankfurt am Main. Someone a tip? Thanks and greetings
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iPod adapter PA11-HON for Volvo Radios
Hello. I came across the following article while browsing the discountcarstereo.com page:PA11-HON This iPod adapter with the matching cable for Volvo (CBP-VOL ) fits to the SC-901 radio of my 2001 C70. With this adapter an iPod can be connected to the changer input of the radio. The big advantage of this adapter is that you can apparently operate the iPod via the buttons of the radio. Thus it is not necessary to install a holder for the iPod or constantly in the In addition, there are Cinch sockets on the adapter, which allow you to connect other devices. I am very interested in this device, but would be happy about a few reports before I invest (but quite a lot) money for it! Thank you very much… I’m very interested in this device.
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XC90 – RPM in stationary gas at 1500 rpm, air conditioning, cruise control and cigarette lighter fail
Here’s a difficult problem, to which my Volvo workshop knows no answer: I drive an XC90 D5 (163 hp) Diesel Automatik BJ 2010, 197,000km, stitch-heeled at Volvo. Recently the following occurs: 1. The car has a standing 1500 revolutions and pulls like stupid (even when driving backwards). 2. If it stops a little longer, e.g. at the traffic lights, the speed drops slowly to approx. 750 revolutions. When starting the car, the speed starts again to 1500 rpm and the car pulls independently This is also the case with the “rolling out”, because the speed does not drop below 1500 rpm and the car can only be stopped under massive use of the brake. That’s super dangerous!!! 3. At the same time cigarette lighters, air conditioning and cruise control are permanently out. 4. The relevant fuse has been replaced, but it is broken again and again. This occurred already in the summer and my Volvo workshop read the error memory a I was replaced with the capacitor/compressor for a lot of money and the problem seemed to be fixed. But now the whole thing started again and the error message said that it had to do with the electronics on the accelerator. The workshop fixed this again and everything seemed good. After about 1 month the same shit again… . So back to the workshop and the same again. Then I drove from the yard of the Volvo workshop and already when turning into the road the turn speeded up. ahl again to 15,000 rpm high and everything was again as usual (air conditioning, cruise control, cigarette lighter failed). Then I left the car at the workshop. They drove test, checked everything through and see… the thick Swede purred like a kitten and everything was ok, as if nothing had ever been. You couldn’t notice anything! Now I drove again for a month, everything ok. Then, yesterday, I slowly hit a traffic light again and the speed is snowing The car is back up to 1500 rpm and the car almost shoots over the crossing. And again cruise control, cigarette lighter and air conditioning failed… The car is otherwise in impeccable condition and I want to drive it for a long time. I know enough people with considerably older Volvos and well over 300,000 km of mileage… So does anyone have a tip on what this could all be?! And yes – I do not have the floor mat on the accelerator!!!
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Camshaft adjuster prevents engine start?
Hello Volvo screwdriver, I need your advice or help: Volvo S60, 2,4l, 140hp, 5 cylinders, suction cup (no turbo), 2003, approx. 190,000 km. Read out the error memory returned: 640A. Can a faulty camshaft adjustment on the inlet side prevent the engine start? Do you have any experience in this regard? Thank you for the support in advance! Best regards Klaus
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Marder destroys insulation material – replacement?
After several marten bites at my former car (BMW) I was already happy: 6 months of rest at the new Volvo – too early, as it turned out with a recent look into the engine compartment: the cattle behind the engine have pulled out the entire insulation material to the passenger compartment. Repair and full replacement costs the workshop a day work. And only gives the marten something to do again. Therefore: someone knows a useful method, with non-volvo- Is it possible to restore the insulation safely? And does anyone have experience with the installation of rabbit grids under the engine compartment? I am pissed off at the cattle and want to deny them access once and for all. Thanks for all the tips. wg
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Vibration and twitching in the steering wheel
Hello, I know, the topic has already been discussed here to Hauf, but somehow no lid fits on my pot: wrongdoer is as always my 850T5R, Built 95: No matter at what speed, I have vibrations in the steering wheel. At Tempo 90 they are particularly strong to feel, at Tempo 140 hardly any more. Actually exactly the symptoms that are noticeable in an imbalance in the wheel. Now I have observed this more closely and notice that I also hit a stroke at Tempo 30. If I let go of the steering wheel at this speed, then the steering wheel twitches about 1cm rhythmically with the wheel turn.The car pulls slightly to the right. So if I drive a bit peeler, the steering wheel twitches faster. In the brake the imbalance is not to be felt. From the feeling I would say : a wheel eiert. I made an appointment for Wednesday with the friendly and would like to avoid that this once “on suspicion” parts exchange….na yes, you know already where so where so so you know. something can end… Perhaps more information: Brake discs, shock absorbers and crossbars were made before 4000Km by the previous owner. Does anyone have any suspicions?? Thank you and Jroos us Kölle 😉
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Lamps for light switches ect. where cheaper than original ?
Hy, once again need some lights for light switches and the same. today at Volvo € 5.07.- + 20% fairytale tax, for a lamp. I think they have too deep doorsticks and now ask you where there is the cheaper. Listen to something from Honda ect. but nothing exact ……… Thank you lg
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high speed fluctuations
Good evening, I finally bought a Volvo V70 2.5T with 193 hp. The bock has 246000 km.. If I stand on N (is an automatic) then the speed variation is very strong.. I put in a gear (R or D) then the speed variation is still present but not too strong anymore.. Even if I drive and then brake you notice the speed variation.. What could it be??? Urgently your help the car must be to tuv.. MFG Marcel
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1/4 mile
Say hello to Honda drivers and everyone else. On 20.08 is at the lusitring 1/4 mile and I thought to go with me. Buddy wanted to drive against me. But will be embarrassing because I have an EJ9 with 90 hp and he has a Nissan 100 NX about 100 hp. What could I do so to become a little “faster”? Topic weight out all that is clear but anything else? Since you have ever driven the famous 402,25 m of fate? How long do you need so. Will my time then post What do you think I’m gonna need? Thank you! Would be cool to know what you all need!