Hi, I just bought myself a V70 D5 (diesel 163 HP Bj 09/02). The following problem. I hate these built-in car phones. My newer has the communication package. I would love to have a correct drink stop instead of the telephone keyboard. Can you change that? Also this pseudo phone in the center console bugs me… Also: Unfortunately I belong to the smoking guild and can hardly believe that there is no proper ashtray in the D5. Only such an emergency solution for the center console. Is there perhaps still any way to change that? Last question: Mine now has 255/50/17 tires. Is that good or bad. Does this make the car better/bader than with the serial tire? I am very grateful for a few answers!
Category: Honda Forum
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Every year again… Winter tires
Since I’m thinking of taking part in the Lichterfest again this year, I’m looking for winter tyres. The selection is huge and the price ranges too. What are your experiences from last year? What do you drive for models, what can you recommend? Many greetings from the north of Heiko
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Radio SC901
Hello dear elk community, I am a short time owner of a SC901 and wanted to incorporate this into my 850er (94Bj). I have seen already open times 850er with this radio. The first fright: the original plugs were not on the wire harness of my vehicle. I then rearranged them and attached them to the wire harness of my 850er. Radio built in, code entered and see as it funzte. All functions are “operable”, the light goes, the CD 3x changer provides its service, the radio detects and stores transmitter and even the cassette part runs – so far as well ABER: from the loudspeakers comes no beeps! All cable assignments and connections again checked everything ok. on the occupancy place No. 6 of the small rectangle plug still hangs a thin yellow/black cable which however is not present on the cable tree of my 850er and according to the switching plan carries the name: Tachosignal. Who drives in his 850er such a radio and can help me further? Does anyone have a tip or an idea why I didn’t not fix it or LG did anything wrong?
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TÜV yes, start unfortunately no
Hello together, first of all the good things: with your help I passed the TÜV successfully in the last week and the 300k km still full… and there should actually be some more. Gerstern I started on a tour. Keys around, drove off, after about 1min the gas system jumped on, everything fine. After about 20 km to the right to telephone, then I wanted to start the engine and look there, he didn’t start up any more. The starter orgelt, otherwise, however, happens nothing. After countless attempts he even went on again, however, directly on gas. The switching temperature was probably still to be used. So the relay was already changed. So the red 103er in me is again, and I had to fly around the green one in the trunk. Since he did not run on gas again normal at the first time, I come to the end: It can actually only be the gasoline pump. Have already changed the relay. With me the red 103er in it is still in it, and I had to fly around the green one before. If not both are broken, I can cut it off. The suction pump should be found and I can’t be interchangeable and I have found again.
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Question of conscience: Purchase of a V50 from “rental car return”?
Hello are considering whether we can buy a V50 D2 (first registration 03.2011; approx. 20000km) with good equipment and good price from a larger car dealer or rather leave our fingers off it. Problem1: Vehicle comes from car rental company (eurocars); Problem 2: Vehicle probably has a fall/track problem at the front left: tires on the outside very badly driven. Fixing the latter could still be agreed within the scope of the purchase (incl. new tire?). However, the past of the car can no longer be eliminated. The car would have a quiet life here (throughout 10,000 km/year with reserved driving). How would you decide?
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Clashing coupling
Hello, I’ve been driving a V50 D2, built in 2011 with around 25,000 km of mileage since a few weeks. Up to one point I’m completely satisfied with the vehicle: I’ve also noticed this well-known “crack” during gear change or load change. Here in the forum there are already some posts about it, which I have already read carefully. However, various tips were given. Adhesive the drive shafts (which is probably quite controversial), special grease up to the replacement of the clutch or even the gearbox. The posts are mostly already a bit older, so I would be interested in whether there are new experiences/solutions to this. I’m a little surprised, because the problem with Volvo is obviously already known for some years, and an almost new vehicle still has to struggle with the problem. Another small thing happened to me: If I turn the lock from position II to III to start the engine, then I can immediately go back to position II, because the starter is always busy until the engine jumps. Sometimes it comes to the starter.
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Stronger battery?
Hello Gemeide! I don’t know how you’re doing in this regard, but I’ve been feeling a bit overwhelmed by the battery for a long time. Especially in this season (light and heating) my moose seems to me more often in the morning, as if it’s just starting on the last pusher. It only needs half a turn and then wakes up immediately – but it shouldn’t need much more. Could it be the coals of the LIMA (the red light never burns and does not even flicker with switched on consumers). The poles sit tight and are well greased and eggy the battery makes a healthy impression.
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Windscreen wipers too little pressure
Hello dear community, I know that several threads have already been created. In these, however, only new ones have been reported and maybe there is another solution. First of all, the problem: with our moose, the windshield wiper has problems with the suspension pressure in the vertical position. Is it annoying when you drive and have no clear field of view during rain and night. I have put in a few pictures that show the windshield wiper in its vertical position. My question to you: is there a way to restore this pressure and that the windshield wiper is completely lying down? The problem exists since Volvo has been replaced/renewed. I have also read something about milling out of any aluminum parts, but I don’t want to just walk around the Volvo and make everything worse in the end. So, does anyone have a tip for me? Thanks in advance, Tim in advance,
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Battery fixing at Volvo -> just snapped in?
Hello, I want to change my battery soon (Monday) – can it be that the Volvo all in all (or only at 850) are only cracked? I can hardly imagine that such a plastic part should hold the heavy battery (especially when driving by people *feiff, look into the air*). Good ride! Torsten – the XC fan (hopes otherwise that the poles are already greased with the new battery and that my conventional tool is sufficient for the pole screws – first cut off plus pole, then minus pole and to bridge a 9V battery at the cigarette connection – or?)
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C30 LED daytime running light for older models
Hello I would like to replace my fog lights with the LED Daylight Kit (Part. No. 31330688,31330689) which should not be a problem, only that the kit is for the new models. I am currently driving a C30 T5 R-Design from 2009 and would be happy if someone knows exactly if the foglight LED Kit: Instruction No Version Part. No. 31330683 1.0 31330688,31330689 also fit on the first models ?? If not, what are the alternatives ?