Category: Honda Forum

Hello, we have recently had massive problems with our V40 TD, 66kW, engine D4192T, the good old Renault engine F8QT, BJ 01/98. When starting cold, let it rotate for a long time until it starts. Ok , you can live with it. The idle speed is too low, between 600 and 700 revolutions with cold engine. Then it does not keep the speed right, it varies constantly by approx. 100 rpm. With warm engine it commutes between 850 and 950 rpm. When switching, you have the feeling that the car does not have any light. g has more, only when the turbocharger gets enough pressure it finally pulls, before it drives like a 34hp-fiat-panda with tightened handbrake. Even with constant gas the car has drop-outs, i.e. it jerks from the engine, as if it pulls false air or pulls air over the diesel line. (Similar to ignition-slips…) or not get enough diesel. If the car then accelerates and one keeps the accelerator on the highway under good load it drives itself quite standard al, but for city traffic and highway this driving behavior is really annoying. Diesel filter is new, it can’t be because … Does any of you have an idea ?

Hello, my moose is ready for me at the moment a little worry… Hopefully it’s only a broken/stricken/defected/slipped turbo hose… Symptoms: Sometimes everything is fine, the turbo does what it needs to do, whistles quite easily in the background (is normal or?) and everything is good. But then the turbo is all loud at once. You hear a very loud hissing while giving gas. When I quickly walk off the gas I hear clearly how the excess pressure is dropped (wastegate defective?). If it is hissing while accelerating, there is still good performance, maybe a little less than normal. What I find strange is that sometimes everything is fine. If the Wastegate valve or a hose were defective, would it always have to hiss or? I hope I could describe my problem in an understandable way. Where is the Wastegate valve? I would like to see if I can’t detect a defective hose or leak. Unfortunately today I didn’t have the e Time to check all hoses (engine was still warm and I didn’t have time to wait). Thank you for your tips or solutions. Matthias

Hello guys, I need all your advice. I’ve looked at a Volvo V40 from 1999. Lots of space and actually good condition. Smaller rust bubbles on a fender and rear wheelwheel, which I would let away directly from the paintr. The driver’s seat is also ripped open, I don’t care……either get a used one or bring to the saddler. So far ABS sensors, exhaust, climate compressor, and other things have been made. Brakes this year new. The engine is e in 1.8l with 116Ps and has almost 200,000km on the hump. Timing belts made verifiable at 120,000km, as well as any service. Clutch has not been made yet, but is amazingly good because the vehicle was moved almost only on the highway. But I was now advised from all sides that because of the V40 there is no more Volvo, but garbage?? Cars, electrics, engine all scrap? Who can tell me more exactly about the engine and the car? As said, I am not looking for a racing car, but a b illustrious everyday vehicle….. I am grateful for every opinion and promise that I will continue to contribute to this in the future in terms of Volvo…. Greetings Michael

Hello, dear moose community, our moose is now going into the 11th year and still drives with the first cooling water filling. My question: Do you want to replace the stuff once and for all? If so, how is this done? Which hoses do I have to remove in order to empty the system as far as possible? Can I then refill the system via the balancing tank? Thank you in advance for your (hopefully numerous) answers. Best regards from the north