Category: Honda Forum

Hello V50 driver, I would be interested in what you have discovered about your V50, which may not (or not obviously) be in the manual. I recently found out that when the rain sensor is switched on (it is only for the windshield) when the rear windscreen wiper is inserted in the reverse gear. Very useful tool in my opinion. Then I read there are things like “Global Open”, heist open all the windows when you get rid of them (must be unlocked at the time. W otherwise you know about (hidden) behavior of the V50 what you could list here. Greetings handlebars

Hello again, as I said, after a long time I would like to change Audi and VW to a VOLVO V50 2.0D (equipment etc. in my other topic). Now I really had a long time in this forum and somehow the subjective impression that according to the entries there should not be a V50 2.0D without any engine problems? There is a series of new SW played up, parts changed or adjusted (from the air mass meter over the AGR valve (whatever that is) to the T Also the consumption values do not seem to really convince. In addition the story with the noises and the high brake and tire wear…Get in, let on, arrive: Does this with a V50 at all without a monthly meeting with the workshop master?????? In the forums of other manufacturers can clearly not find difficult problems so often! Who convinces me anyway?

Had recently found a completely new source of noise – lighter rain – so rain sensor and every time the wiper reached the dead point a metal noise not loud but audible – and as of miraculously the next day everything was in order again! a second phono I could also notice, if I in the city at approx., 1200 -1400rpm with inserted passage to the traffic light roll the car is somehow different regarding noise louder and somehow unpleasant as soon as disembarkation Pelt is getting this noise away. has made any of you already similar experiences!!! bearded

It seems a bit stupid to start this thread, but I’m still interested in it: I’ve had my S40 T5 (new car) for a week and I haven’t had such trouble driving a car yet. The grinding point of the clutch must be right on the millimeter, otherwise the engine will choke off or the car will run off like Sau (depending on whether too much or too little). The resistance of the pedal is very strong – pushes your foot up. I also noticed that the accelerator will react quite late. Had 3 Nissans before, so you could tap a little bit and the speed went up, the Volvo has to push quite a bit until the engine reacts. But I noticed the same already when testing another T5, but I ignored it. Is that “coupling accuracy” just like that with Volvo or is that something over time? I have to say that my latest car so far was 8 years ago, my last one was 14 when I got it 🙂 So I’m full of newcomers in new cars 🙂 a second “bad” question. How do you do it when you park? I have no idea how long my FZ is, because I don’t see over the hood – what I seem to have quite used to with my Nissans. I always put it backwards to the wall because I have (fortunately) sensors. Does an S40/V50 driver have a tip ??? Gruss $id (again sorry for this thread 🙂 )

Hello everyone I’ve been the owner of a new Volvo S40 2D for a few days. I chose the inexpensive diesel variant because it attracted my attention due to low consumption and low exhaust emissions. The drive variant didn’t work for me, because I hardly even drive in the city with traffic lights. However, I got used to stopping the engine when waiting at the traffic lights and starting again at Green. I now have a the engine did not start again when I turned the key from II to III. I could not start the engine. There was a huge casserole at the intersection because my brand new Volvo didn’t start. After endless attempts the engine jumped on and I was able to continue. I was able to adjust this situation several times later. A new start of the engine is only possible after I completely pulled the key and at least 50- When I then approached my Volvo dealer about this process, he said that this was so well known and was due to the “radio supply of the immobilizer”. If someone could detect a similar behavior or I have a problem with the technology here. If I pull the key completely off and hold “on the stretched arm” briefly in the rear of the car, I can start the engine immediately. I have not heard anything like this yet, although my car was not running until now. The car also had an immobilizer. It’s a bit strange the thing. Confused greetings from the new Volvo S40

Hi. A few questions about the V 50 1.8 (momentum): the car, EZ Sept. 06 with 90,000 Km, maintained, for a good 10,000.-; price generally ok? Are there blatant weaknesses with the Fz., wants to say: Places where you should look/hear in any case? How are the maintenance intervals at the 1.8? Do you generally drive to the ‘friendly’ for maintenance/repairs or do you entrust your elk to a workshop without Volvo lettering? Thank you in advance Greeting

This morning I probably totally scrapped my Gas-Hyundai and therefore need a new car quite quickly. After the unsatisfying trip to petrol/gas it should become a diesel again. Today I stumbled over an offer for a C30 2.0 D, which sounded quite interesting (BJ 08, 46tkm, 12,000 €). I saw the car from the outside, I like it. Unfortunately I have absolutely no plan from Volvo, so I ask here in the Volvo-UF: how do you find it? the basic data? is there anything important that you have to pay attention to in this model/engine? Is this a “for God’s sake, just leave your fingers” of this model or engine for some reason?